Brake problems

[TexasEd 188]

I was told the front disc kit comes with the bearings.  I was wondering abot replacing the rear ones.  I have an 8" axle so which bearings do I need?

 

 

[Grabber70Mach 107]

On 3/4/2018 at 10:56 PM, TexasEd said:

I was told the front disc kit comes with the bearings.  I was wondering abot replacing the rear ones.  I have an 8" axle so which bearings do I need?

 

 

The rear bearings have to be pressed on the axles.  It wouldn't hurt to replace them but you have to pull the axles.  If your just doing brakes then the axles don't have to be pulled.

[Grabber70Mach 107]

On 3/4/2018 at 8:44 PM, RPM said:

Absolutely Timken bearings. My Chicom bearings didn't make it home for me. Only thing holding on the wheel was the caliper.

 

That picture amazes me when I see it, you definitely had an angel watching over you then.

[RPM 1,190]

3 hours ago, Grabber70Mach said:

That picture amazes me when I see it, you definitely had an angel watching over you then.

Don't you know. Extremely blessed to have it happen when and where it did.

[moodster 55]

If the rear axle doesn't leak then your rear bearings are most likely fine.  I wouldn't go through the trouble and expense.  Instead I'd focus on finding a KH disc kit or 69 original discs for the front.  Sometimes people pull their discs off the front to go with big brake kits like Wilwood or Brembo.

david

[TexasEd 188]

Got all the parts today.  Posted an update in my build thread.  Drum rebuild parts from Rock Auto and CSRP front power discs.  

Been trying to get the front drums off but the shoes appear to be rusted to the drums.  Yay!

 

[TexasEd 188]

I drilled out the pins on one of the front brakes but it still won't release the pads.  I can wiggle it a little but think I'm going to need a big puller.

 

I did get one of the rear brakes off cleanly and I was happy to see there weren't grooves in the wear pads.

 

If I continue to have problems with the front brakes can I just unbolt them from the spindle or will that not work?

 

[barnett468 418]

the drum may be rusted to the axle. i have had to heat some with an acetylene torch around the axle then beat on the drum with a bit steel mallet.

[JayEstes 172]

On 1/9/2018 at 4:51 PM, TexasEd said:

since I am digging into all 4 brakes this spring should I consider going 4 wheel disc and what would that entail?  Does that mean changing out the rear axle at the same time?  Or just keep it simple with rear drums?

 

My personal opinion is moving to disc in the rear isn't worth it. I rebuilt the rear drums (cheaply), and if I stand on it, they lock up, so it's got plenty of stopping power for that light rear end.  You're probably gonna spend 300-500 to replace everything back there, and then the master cylinder is different, and the proportiing valve ($80) and, and and...  I wouldn't drive the car much without disc in the front, but in the rear, in my opinion, what is there, is adequate - unless you are racing it or are putting in ABS or something.

[TexasEd 188]

Progress!

 

Left Rear rebuilt!

 

Left Front drum off.  This took drilling out the pins from the back, loosening the adjuster, using a pry bar and hammer, a screw driver around the outside, then the pry par and hammer again, and finally I got the drum off the lugs but the shoes were still engaged so I put a screwdriver through a lug hole and hammered the shoes out of the drum.

 

I discovered that my front bearings must be shot because they sound horrible now.  It could have been from removing the drum but they were to be replaced anyway.

 

[TexasEd 188]

19 hours ago, TexasEd said:

If I continue to have problems with the front brakes can I just unbolt them from the spindle or will that not work?

 

The answer is yes!  I should have read the CSRP instructions first, this is what they said to do.  Problem is I started disassembly before I bought the discs or read the instructions.

 

Should I be worried about spindle wear here.  Left one is pretty smooth but right side has a rough patch.

  

[RPM 1,190]

Run you finger over it. The finger can tell a .001 surface difference. Put the bearing on there and see if there's any slop. If it only marred the surface without reducing the bearing surface O.D. I wouldn't worry.

[TexasEd 188]

5 minutes ago, RPM said:

Run you finger over it. The finger can tell a .001 surface difference. Put the bearing on there and see if there's any slop. If it only marred the surface without reducing the bearing surface O.D. I wouldn't worry.

I can feel the transition from one texture to the next and a slightly perceptible change in diameter on the left one.  Right seems fine.

 

[RPM 1,190]

I don't think the texture or finish will matter. Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper to measure the diameter? I'd check the bearing fit on it either way.

[TexasEd 188]

42 minutes ago, RPM said:

I don't think the texture or finish will matter. Do you have a micrometer or dial caliper to measure the diameter? I'd check the bearing fit on it either way.

I do have a micrometer but since the area I'm talking about is on the taper I don't know how I would get a reference measurement.  If it was on one of the cylindrical areas I could compare the two sides.

Remember, this is my first time doing any of these things so I have not idea if this is an issue or not.  

[RPM 1,190]

The tapered area is between the bearings and of no concern.

[TexasEd 188]

Thanks!  I've got the other rear drum off now and will assemble it and then start the disc installation tomorrow.

[jmlay 80]

I think I would see info it cleans up with some emery cloth

 

[TexasEd 188]

Weekend is over but this is what I got done.

• Both rear drums rebuilt with all new shoes, drums, springs, and wheel cylinders.
• Both fronts have old drums off and new rotors, bearings, and 4 piston calipers installed.
• Removed the old master cylinder

The hardest thing I had to do was clean off the old grime on the front knuckles and attach the cross over tube between the front and rear cylinders on the disc calipers.

The CSRP kit is going together really well, the instructions are excellent, and the kit is very complete.

 

 

[JET 445 43]

Do those rotors come in a left hand and right hand pair?, to me that rotor looks like it is on the wrong side of the car, but I have been wrong plenty of times before, lol.

[TexasEd 188]

6 hours ago, JET 445 said:

Do those rotors come in a left hand and right hand pair?, to me that rotor looks like it is on the wrong side of the car, but I have been wrong plenty of times before, lol.

Yes, they do and yes it is on the wrong side per the box label.  When reading the CSRP instructions it said, "Regardless of package markings the preferred orientation for the rotor slots on the outboard sides is to radiate from the hub to the edge in a clockwise fasion for the passenger side, and anti-clockwise for the driver side."

 

So I did it that way on purpose per the instructions.  I'm open to comments.

[JayEstes 172]

Posting all these pics is great.  This will be a good thread for people to review when they encounter a similar situation.

I have a suggestion you might consider for the master cylinder depending on your sitation.  I left mine bare metal when I replaced it, and I have regretted that.  I live in a humid environment, so as this unit warms up and cools down, it condenses water onto it's surface.  This causes a bad problem (aesthetic) with surface rust on the outside of the master cylinder.  Next time I pull mine I plan to put a water proof coating such as brake-fluid-proof paint or a clear 2-stage epoxy.  The rust looks terrible, and it is quite an eyesore.

Just a thought.

[TexasEd 188]

Thanks.  I painted it tonight.

Got the new brake pedal In and the booster mounted to the firewall.  When I get the brake light switch back on I'll be done under the dash.

Have one bad hard line nut on front passenger side.   I'll look around for how much a replacement is.

[TexasEd 188]

I decided to order a new set of stainless lines for the front of the car.  I'm planning on taking off the distribution block and cleaning it.  Any tips on this?  I'm nervous about what appears to be the brake light warning sensor.

Any tips on cleaning out the rear lines, I was not planning to replace those since money is tight.

 

[JayEstes 172]

On 3/14/2018 at 12:57 AM, TexasEd said:

I decided to order a new set of stainless lines for the front of the car.  I'm planning on taking off the distribution block and cleaning it.  Any tips on this?  I'm nervous about what appears to be the brake light warning sensor.

Any tips on cleaning out the rear lines, I was not planning to replace those since money is tight.

Watch out about stainless brake lines.  Stainless sure sounds great, but I have heard a lot of guys saying that these lines don't seal well at the double-flair because the stainless is not as ductile.  I don't have first hand knowledge of this, but this is what my research showed.  Based on what reading about them I could find on this site & 7173mustangs.com, I decided to cut and re-flare my original steel line where I had to (had to get a tool and teach myself how to double-flare).   

I completely removed my lines, and filled it with laquer thinner and let it soak for awhile.   I blew the lines out with compressed air to finish.

Maybe another option would be to use the stainless, but install some copper "flare-savers" (a cone-shaped copper washer) for compression fittings if you can buy the right diameter, and bevel angle (I have not tried these before, but I know industry will use these to help eliminate compression coupling leaks).