302 Distributor position

[TexasEd 188]

I completed setting up the timing and idle settings on my car today but the distributor vacuum advance is touching the upper radiator hose and timing is at about 5 degrees.  Is my distributor off a few teeth or something?  

 

I really don't want to pull everything and go back to TDC to reset this.  If it is off can I just pull it and replace it a little closer to 6 o'clock as long as the rotor does not move?

[TexasEd 188]

 

[jholmes217 65]

Try this.  Put it back at top dead center on the balancer, then continue to turn the crank until 10 degrees advance is at the pointer.  Now drop in your distributor with the rotor pointed at number 1, then set your timing as normal.  You shouldn't have to advance it near as much.

[TexasEd 188]

Is there any way to do this without having to go back to TDC?  What an ordeal this has been where I have had to remove and replace my fan and shroud.

[jholmes217 65]

Pull out #1 spark plug, and put your thumb over the hole.  Turn the engine over until you feel a push of air on your thumb so you know that is compression stroke with the piston coming up.  Continue to turn the engine over until it goes to TDC on the balancer, then continue to 10 degrees past TDC.  Then lift the distributor out, and sink it back in with the rotor pointed at #1.  You shouldn't have to take off the fan and shroud for this.

[unilec 57]

Does the motor run ok?

[JET 445 43]

jholmes217 is correct- just do what he said and you will be sweet.

[TexasEd 188]

The motor runs fine but it could probably use another degree or 2 of advance.  I have it at hot idle at 600 at 5 degrees advance and vacuum is about 18.

I tried to turn the motor over to get to TDC once before and it did not work.  I had to pull all the plugs, Remove the fan and fan shroud and then rotate the crank to get it lined up.  It was a half day+ ordeal and I will have to build up the motivation to go through that again with all the spilled coolant and other messes that creates.

 

If I can pull and replace but keep the rotor in the same place while rotating the whole distributor that should have the same affect as what was described but just not while at TDC, right? 

[unilec 57]

OK, I had a similar issue with my 289, so assuming the rotor turns anti clockwise, you need to mark the position of number one spark plug lead on the the cap, on the manifold and then starting with number one lead rotate all the plug leads one position in the clockwise rotation. Then rotate the distributor anticlockwise till the new position of number one spark plug lead now lines up with the original mark you made on the manifold. This will give you more room to adjust the timing.

[Midlife 814]

26 minutes ago, unilec said:

OK, I had a similar issue with my 289, so assuming the rotor turns anti clockwise, you need to mark the position of number one spark plug lead on the the cap, on the manifold and then starting with number one lead rotate all the plug leads one position in the clockwise rotation. Then rotate the distributor anticlockwise till the new position of number one spark plug lead now lines up with the original mark you made on the manifold. This will give you more room to adjust the timing.

+1.  That's the quickest and easiest way to gain more advance if your advance canister has mechanical interference.

[aslanefe 333]

1 hour ago, TexasEd said:

 

If I can pull and replace but keep the rotor in the same place while rotating the whole distributor that should have the same affect as what was described but just not while at TDC, right? 

Yes you can do that way to clear the vacuum from hitting; and re-adjust your timing afterwards. Or do what unilec suggested.

 

[1969Fstback 58]

11 hours ago, TexasEd said:

 

If I can pull and replace but keep the rotor in the same place while rotating the whole distributor that should have the same affect as what was described but just not while at TDC, right? 

That's same thing I did.  Pulled the cap.  Marked rotor button on distributor.  Pulled the entire thing up turned it counter clockwise.  Put it back in and made sure the button lined up with my mark.  

[Brian Conway 264]

Texas Ed.  Bite the bullet and do it the right way.  Pull the dizzy, TDC and make sure the Vac Adv is clocked where you want it.  To the right?  Your going to want more than 7 degrees of AD anyway.  Brian

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

Take the cap off and remove the adjusting bolt at the block ,grab the rotor and twist slowly ,it will twist one way and not the other ,the distributor will lift ,turn the rotor untill you feel it drop back one tooth ,you may have to bump the motor over to get the oil pump drive key to drop back in as you gently push down on the distridutor,not the rotor  .once it drops in place put the adjustment bolt back and reset your timing. If it is still not enough go one more tooth but one tooth is usually enough.

[1969_Mach1 333]

You are off one tooth with the dist gear engagement to the cam.

1)  Mark on the dist cap  or dist housing where the rotor is pointing.

2)  Pull the dist and rotate the shaft counter clockwise one tooth.  You might have to slightly rotate the oil pump drive with 1/4" socket on a long extension to do that.  (tip, tape the socket to the extension with duct tape so it will not accidentally fall off)

3)  After the dist is reseated, rotate the housing to get the rotor pointing at your previously marked location on the cap or housing.

4) Reset your timing after it is running again.

[TexasEd 188]

Thanks everyone.  I was thinking I was either off one tooth or that I put the wires in one position off.  I'll see if I can drop it back in on the right tooth.

 

[barnett468 418]

you should set your timing curve if you want optimal performance and connect the vac can to ported vac if there is no vac at the port at idle then set te vac can to add around 6 degrees of advance. you may need to buy an adjustable vac can to do this p/n smp vc31 or bwd v311