Picture Request Toploader Hurst

[lanky 44]

Hi guys, I'm saving up to swap to a Toploader and while doing so I am planning everything reasonable (key word) to improve the driving position/controls for my car. Since I am 6'5 I already have moved the drivers seat down and back, and I have already installed a steering wheel and hub combo that moved the wheel towards rear about 2.5". This definitely helped me fit in the car better. Even with the current fmx in the car the shifter is pretty difficult to reach for me, and once the car is a manual the reaching to 1st/3rd would be unacceptable for me.

I tossed around the idea of moving the engine and transmission back to place the shifter further rearward for better positioning. After realizing how quickly this becomes a rabbit hole of modifying things I have decided I would be better off doing one of two things...

1)The simplest idea is to cut and reweld the Hurst shifter lever. This is why I need some pictures from you guys, because I would like to see how close the lever gets to the factory tunnel hole. Anyone have pictures of their shifter in 2nd, and 4th? Really hoping to find pictures showing the tunnel hole and how close the lever is. Brainstorming makes me think might want to chop the lever in 2 places if I go this route.

2) This idea is definitely a little trickier and more expensive but could work. I could fabricate a custom shifter plate for the Hurst shifter to attach further back on the tail housing. This means I would likely have to extend the shift rods as well, but that isn't the most difficult thing. Even if I had to make custom rods I'm confident I can do that. I also realize that I would have to cut up the top of the transmission tunnel for the shifter to go through. I have ideas on this, but would like to see if you guys have pictures first before discussing this route.

Both of these options are much more doable than engine/trans set back and make more sense for a primarily street driven car. I can't emphasize enough my motivation to do something. I want to be happy driving the car when this project is over. 

All related pictures would be extremely helpful and appreciate!

[1969_Mach1 335]

When it comes to a shifter for the toploader 4sp there are basically two direct bolt on Hurst shifter options.  The original OEM Hurst Competition Plus and the current aftermarket Hurst Competition  Plus shifters.  The one key difference is the original OEM Hurst Competition plus uses a bolt on shifter stick.

I have the current aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus shifter in my 1969 Mach 1.  It works fine.  BUT, if I were to replace it, I would get an original OEM Hurst Competition Plus shifter.  Like I mentioned, the current aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus shifter works okay.  However, it's non removable stick makes it difficult to install.  Also, it fits through the original floor opening, but something must be a little different in the shifter throw because the stock repro 1970 Hurst shifter boot doesn't work with it.

This place has rebuilt OEM Hurst Competition Plus shifters.  https://www.hurstshiftersonline.com/productcart/pc/Hurst-Service-Parts-Mechanism-Parts-c53.htm 

Lastly, avoid the Ford 1969 4sp shifter.  They simply don't work nearly as well as the Hurst Competition Plus shifter.

[lanky 44]

I have 2 aftermarket competition plus shifters both without the bolt on lever, and one original 1968 shifter setup which works ok but I won't be using. What I am hoping for is to see how close peoples shifter levers get to the rear of the tunnel hole to see if cutting and rewelding the lever makes sense. Need pictures though. I am leaning towards making a custom plate for the hurst to attach more rearward and cutting and reshaping the tunnel to accomodate the relocated shifter. 

[1969_Mach1 335]

Yeah, if you make a custom mount to move the shifter back, you will need to cut the tunnel opening.  I vaguely remember on mine, in 4th gear the shifter stick is about 1/2" from the rear edge of the original opening.

[lanky 44]

Thanks that at least gives me a ballpark.

The problem with changing shift lever length and angle for an easier reach is that it would make the shift motion more up and down (vertically) which ain't right. One thing I might try is getting a female coupler to attach on top of Hurst shift lever and either bend the coupler or bend a long bolt attached to it. For obvious reasons the idea of cutting up my tunnel doesn't sound appealing but it may end up being the best option.

 

[JET 445 43]

Here ya go Lanky, this is how a chebby guy does it....

[1969_Mach1 335]

If your Hurst shifter uses a bolt on stick. Hurst offers a variety of bolt on sticks.  Maybe they already have one that will work.

Also, the Hurst shifter mechanism you have must be for a Mustang.  If not, the shifter stick will never pass through the original opening in the floor. 

[lanky 44]

I have 2 Hurst shifters both for classic mustangs. I have been toying with the idea of a remote mount shifter too. I will definitely look into that.

Quick question for those with Hurst shifters and toploaders: if your shift lever is in neutral position and you push the lever forward does it go into 3rd or 1st gear? Mine goes into 3rd unless you go left as well. Full disclosure I rebuilt the shifter myself and wanted to make sure that this is normal.