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Cantedvalve

1970 Fastback

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So wow... I definitely took some time off from this.  What have I done lately.... well, due to the sensor port on the radiator interfering with the battery, I have to move the battery... to the trunk... oops.

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So to figure out the battery tray for the trunk.  I know Boss 429 did it, but those parts aren't cheap.  So I found a thread over on Mustang Steve's site where a guy had modified a stock bracket to work in the trunk on the dropoff.  Here is the link: http://fyi.boardhost.com/viewtopic.php?id=911.  Not sure what car he has, but I had to do a little more modification on mine.  For one, the bracket hits the backup lamp wiring.  Second, there are reinforcement ribs that are interfering.  He also hung the solenoid off the back, and I wanted mine different.  So I modded mine a bit different. 

I built a shield and welded it on the side.  I will mount the solenoid and "safe zone" fuse on there.  My safe zone is the area between two large fuses on the alternator charging cable.  Everything inside is somewhat protected.  I have a 

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Here it is positioned in the car.  The bottom bracket goes down the drop off and will bolt to the drop off.

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Here are the mods I made to the bracket.  I welded up the joint with the tray, and I shortened the bracket, rebent it, and welded on nuts.

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Finally, I made a reinforcing plate on the bottom.

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Now I just need to install it.

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Here is my wiring.  The "safe zone" is the area between the big fuses (the grey wavy blocks), and everything gets its power from in there.  I don't know what size fuses I will actually need.  It is a 100amp alternator.   I will figure it out.  I currently have 100amp and 125 amp fuses, with the thought being I should never put out more than 100amp from the alternator, and I should never draw more than 125amp from the battery (not including the starter, which is outside this loop).

wiring.png.6a8d66b57dd54d6a1790552b3e2e4e25.png

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HI Canted….I have a lot of pictures of my trunk mounted battery install and power distribution diagrams on my 1970 convertible thread.   Be happy to answer any questions you may have.   For instance, some of my electronics needed to be grounded directly to the battery negative.  So, I ran a dedicated ground cable from the battery in the trunk, to a ground terminal block under my dash.  

 

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Oh, on the subject of the temperature sensor....I have a inline temperature sensor that is installed in my lower radiator hose.  This is used for my PWM fan controller for my 2 radiator cooling fans.   

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More than happy to check them out.  I always accept free advice.  I don't always use it though... maybe that is part of my problem!

I am curious what needed direct connection to the battery.  Certainly none of the stock components.  My stereo equipment diagrams all show chassis grounds (head unit and amp).  I am doing a Pertronix II for ignition.  Other than that, nothing I have seems to need it.

On the topic of the fan thermal switch, I've always been under the impression that if you measure the water out of the engine and use a bit higher thermal switch, you get to the same place as a sensor in the water coming out of the radiator with a bit cooler switch.  I'd love to see your setup though.

Dump your knowledge on me!

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I had previously painted the silver portions of a set of repop tail light bezels with Carbon Mist Metallic.  Last night I pulled the quarter markers and gave them the same treatment.  It is hard to get good pictures, but here they are:

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They are darker than stock by a lot.  I like it.  I only have the front markers to do and then everything will match.

Off to clean up the bumper.

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9 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

Bumper is done, but who cares?  It’s a bumper.  What I want to know is if/how Ford kept the bumper brackets and taillight bezels from digging into the paint.  That would be useful.

Bought these for the rear.

https://www.cjponyparts.com/bumper-bracket-mounting-pad-rear-set-1965-1973/p/HW572/

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Go to hobby lobby or an other craft store and get the "silly Winks" or other brand craft closed cell foam pads; they are 12" by 18", you can get 2mm and 5mm thick for about $1 a sheet. You can get black, gray etc. You can use them to make the gaskets for the rear bumper, front bumper side bracket, gas filler neck, side marker etc. Way cheaper than buying pre-made gaskets and you do not need to wait for shipping when ever you need a gasket. I used side wall of an old tire to make the pads for the rear bumper which does not compress as much as the craft foam.

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Oooo... good call on that one!  I wasnt going to get the CJ rubber washers, just hardware store.  But the closed foam will be great for the taillight housings.  Side markers dont seem to be much of a problem since they are rounded edges, but the taillight housing has those sharp edges that just dig into the panel

Its funny... I found my same thread asking this same question 15 years ago over on VMF.  I ended up going with a weather stripping, but it was a patchwork.  I like the idea of an actual one piece that I cut myself.

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Over the weekend:

  • installed the amp and solenoid signal wires
  • hooked up the hot wires for the stereo, main harness, and radiator fan
  • hooked up the signal wire for the fan - hooked to the accessory post of the fuse box (thanks Randy)
  • installed the gauge panel
  • installed the heater controls
  • installed the radio panel and stereo
  • modified and installed the trim around the radio
  • put the dash pad back in just for giggles
  • got out the new front carpet to let it relax before install

Here is where I left off:

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Well Ii did finally get a few minutes to work on the car after a week of being sick.  I hate sick.  Got the positive battery cable assembled.  Pulled the starter wire, shortened it, and installed new ends - all my ends are soldered on, the OE style was crimped, which is fine, but the molded rubber boot was damaged.  Had I been paying more attention, I would have cut off the starter end - the damaged portion - and kept the solenoid end which looked new.  Alas I did not, so it got soldered connectors on both ends.  Sealed it up with heat shrink and put some heat sleeve on the portion running under the headers.  Also got the hangar painted and installed, and added a boot for the solenoid end.  And that is how i spent the 30 minutes I was afforded to work on my car tonight.

When I stripped the insulation off that starter wire, it ended up being more like 6 gauge vs. the 4 gauge it appeared to be.  The insulation was pretty thick.  I looked around the work area for the left over 4 gauge I used for the alternator wire, but I think I used it all.  I then turned to the 1 gauge ground wire... but I dont have the ends for that.  So I ended up just putting ends on the stock replacement cable.

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3 hours ago, Cantedvalve said:

 

When I stripped the insulation off that starter wire, it ended up being more like 6 gauge vs. the 4 gauge it appeared to be.  The insulation was pretty thick.  I looked around the work area for the left over 4 gauge I used for the alternator wire, but I think I used it all.  I then turned to the 1 gauge ground wire... but I dont have the ends for that.  So I ended up just putting ends on the stock replacement cable.

So just measure the diameter of the copper ( not including the insulation) 4 gauge should be about 5.1 to 5.5mm and 6 gauge 4.1 to 4.5mm.

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Got the boy to go with me tonight.  We installed the dash pad, which wasn't as easy as it sounds.  We are using a dash cover, and we had to drill holes in it (installed it before installing the dash pad).  The screws pulled through the dash cover nicely and it looks good.  Still have the two in the center of the dash and the ones that hold it to the gauge panel to do, but that isn't a big deal

Got the radio wiring finished.  Only had a ground wire left.  Plan to run the RCA's for the subs before I put the carpet in.  Then I am going to put the carpet in!

We also installed the steering column.  Well, its in there, still have to put the firewall bolts in, and put the steering box bolts in.  But its getting there.

Also put in the starter wire.  Wrapped the back half in heat shielding.  I have a feeling I will end up replacing the whole wire as it isn't a very heavy gauge, but it was a stock replacement.  I think it could be a bottle neck though.

I hope to have the bulk of the interior done this weekend as well as the battery ground and the fuel tank reinstalled.  I want to get the fuel line done too, but that may be asking too much.

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In one of your pics, the dynamat doesn't cover the firewall. Do you plan on applying it there, or not. Mine is fully covered and I can still feel some heat from the engine/ headers. 

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Keep in mind I did that 10-12 years ago with the whole dash installed.  I dont think I would take it up higher than the toe boards because at that point the exhaust is under it.  I do have some more that I will be applying to the front of the transmission tunnel under the dash, which is why I dont have the ash tray installed yet.

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Tonight I was flying solo.  I worked on a couple things.  First was my ground cable.  I installed the battery terminal on it.  That is all I did there.

Next is something a little radical.  I have a pair of powered subwoofers that are small in size... Kenwood KSC-SW11.  I really don't have anywhere to mount them though.  I could have mounted them in the trunk, but I put a fold down seat in.  I could have mounted them behind the quarter trim panels, but you guys didn't like that idea.  So I am mounting them.... under the seats.  Problem.  There is interference with the piece that ties the two parts together and the spring that helps with moving the seat up.  So... ever seen a chopped and channeled Mustang seat platform?

First I started by peeling back enough of the Dynamat to cut the section out without gumming up the cutting wheel.  I marked off what I am cutting out with tape (everything inside the blue tape)

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Then I cut it out.  I had a small issue... that brace in the middle of the seat pan.  I had to cut down through that, but I got it out.

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When I got that section seat riser out, I was shocked how clean the floor boards were (all of that is very mild surface rust peppered with grinding dust).  Even more shocking... virgin metal on the bottom of the seat riser!

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Finally, here is what I plan to do... I am going to weld a channel into the area I just cut out.  This will lower the sub enough that it wont interfere with the seat parts.  I left the sections of the riser that the seat bolts to intact.

Once the channel is in, I will use some leftover carpet pieces and glue them into the channel.  Should look pretty good.

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Oh, here is a shot of Oscar, a 1953 F100 pickup that my great grandpa (dad's grandpa) used on his farm.  His name was Oscar too.  Dad and I restored it a few years back and drove it to my grandpa's (his dad's) house so he could ride in it.  We drove it there, drove it home... and never drove it again.  Seems the block cracked on the way home (or the head, dunno), filling the crank case with coolant and now the engine is seized up.  It is the later model Flathead V8 that is correct for this truck.  It's almost as if it held together just long enough for grandpa to get his ride.

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It is also where I store parts I am afraid will get damaged...

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