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69ShelbyGT350H

1969 Shelby GT350H Build

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Regarding your speedometer cable being close to your exhaust, I used a spark plug thermal sleeve on mine to keep it from melting the cover. Works like a charm for me.IMG_20180610_225359.thumb.jpg.15a6ae546d74f4114cea92075ceeed27.jpg

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Got all the liquids in and wanted to prime the fuel pump and fill the carb. 6 gallons of REC 90 in the tank but after several attempts, no fuel was flowing. Several checks reveal that the fuel hard fuel line is plugged someplace and there is no damage to the line. I ordered a new SS 3/8 line and just got it installed. 

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It wants to start, but not quite. 

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-1.mp4

The starter is not always engaging, going to have to replace it. Got it running, forgot to start the camera to catch it but it fired right up and ran.

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-2.mp4

It smoked white smoke out the exhaust for a bit, but eventually quit.

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-3.mp4

It got a little rough, looked down and saw a wire came off the cap. Shut it down and it did not want to spin fast enough to start again. Change the battery and had the same issue. Guessing my pre 1990 started has had it.

http://redshost.com/gt350/video/GT350-4.mp4 

 

Sorry, the date on the camera is a little off.

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Here are all 4 videos combined and on a page with a streaming (embedded) player. http://redshost.com/gt350/video/startup/

Permanent Magnet High Torque mini starter arrived today. It's small and light. Before I installed it, I wanted to get the heat shield in place. I picked up a 12 x 24 sheet of 22ga sheet metal from Home Depot. I transferred my template to it and cut it out with my cutoff tool. Bent it, curved it, beat a curved edge into it, and did a few test fits. Turns out I need to trim a few areas where the bolts go through as the shield is hitting the block and trans cooler lines.

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Mods on the shield made and painted with high temp sating black ceramic engine paint. Got it bolted in place and it looks pretty good. Its not touching anything other than the 2 mounting bolt holes/bolts. Hooked the starter wires up and w/o the ignition turned on it cranked the engine right over. Hooked up the coil and it fired right up. Ran it for another 25 min to finish the cam break-in. I did stall it at one point when I had slowed it down to check the idle timing, and it did fire right back up. No slow spin at all.

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New starter works great. It started right up and I was able to finish the 30 minute cam break-in. At one point, some white smoke came out of the exhaust, and then quit. I changed the oil and filter. Cut open the filter and did not find any shiny objects.

More recently, a friend stopped by and I ran the engine again, for the 3rd time for him. Once again, white smoke came out of the exhaust for a little bit. You can see it in the following video. Otherwise it seems to be running great.

 

http://redshost.com/media/GT350R3rdRun/

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What would make the power steering fluid get so hot that it would melt the plastic pieces in the power steering control valve? The power steering pump is the one that I got with the car back in 1981. It's not making any noise, not leaking, and topped off with fluid. The Control Valve is a new rebuilt I purchased about a year ago and put on the car recently. I did not know I had a problem as when I was breaking in the cam I never tried to steer the car. I started it up today and wanted to test the steering. It moved a little stiffly from lock to lock at first, then got better after a few turns. But when I got out of the car, I found it had squirted fluid out of the end of the control valve end cap all over the ground. When things cooled down I pulled the cap and found this:

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But before the Power Steering issue, I finished up the battery install, you can see the radiator overflow in front of the battery as well:

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Installed the steering column and adjusted the steering box:

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Changed the break-in oil, cut open the filter and looked at the element and debris that got left in the filter:

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And started cleaning my rims. The one on the right has been cleaned, the one on the left, not yet:

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I rebuilt the power steering control valve, but the system still got pretty hot. Took the power steering pump apart and found evidence of rust in the reservoir. Guessing some rust must have gotten into the pump I got a reman pump and changed it out. The power steering is now leaking all over the place, but it worked great while it was hooked up. Had to take the belt off so I would not run it dry. 

So it's been almost 4 years since I rebuilt the FMX using Ken BadShoe's rebuild video. Today I finally felt it was time to test it and see if it really does more than just go in and out of gear. Sorry for the small size of the video, it's from a friends iPhone. I keep telling him he needs an Android...

http://redshost.com/media/firstdrive/

Yep, very little throttle as the video starts, the tires are just sitting there spinning. Can you say, torque monster?

Edited by 69ShelbyGT350H
Spelling errors!

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5 hours ago, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

 

Yep, very little throttle as the video starts, the tires are just sitting there spinning. Can you say, torque monster?

Actually a stock 302 engine can spin those tires although it would take a bit more throttle. If you have never driven a car with those tires you need to be extremely careful as they are in fact dangerous.

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Yep, drove it back in the 80's and 90's on those tires. It did take a lot more throttle to spin them like that and I can now break them loose on a roll, something I could not do before. The car is not meant for everyday driving, and I have a set of 17" Legendary GT9's with Nitto 555 G2's on the way for when I do want to drive it. The original Shelby rims and Polyglass tires will be reserved for show purposes only.

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