1969 Shelby GT350H Build

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Other than A/C compressor brackets, I do have another area that I am in need of some assistance. As I took the car apart in the late 80's - early 90's, I do not remember the routing of the speedometer cable where it comes out of the transmission and runs forward toward the firewall. I currently have it running in front of the driver's side transmission mount but it is very close to the exhaust in that area. Remember that this is the FMX transmission and on the driver's side the crossmember only contacts the floor mount on the back side of the mount. The passenger side the cross member contacts both the front and back of the floor mount. I forgot to take a photo of the area I am talking about so will do that later. I have searched the internet but do not seem to be able to find the correct FMX setup. Might anyone be able to provide some guidance in this area?

Thanks.

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

[mqu02 30]

I have the same setup as you do, and will try to get you picture of this tomorrow. 

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

On 5/2/2018 at 11:41 PM, mqu02 said:

I have the same setup as you do, and will try to get you picture of this tomorrow. 

Here is what I am currently dealing with. Its not touching now, but I am sure once the exhaust gets hot it will sag down and sit right on the pipe. I cant leave it this way even if this is correct and will find a way to re-route it.

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

[JET 445 43]

I see that exhaust system as being a real problem, it's just to close to everything, have you considered getting it rebent to gain more clearance and ceramic coating would reduce the amount of radiated heat.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

4 hours ago, JET 445 said:

I see that exhaust system as being a real problem, it's just to close to everything, have you considered getting it rebent to gain more clearance and ceramic coating would reduce the amount of radiated heat.

The JBA's are Ceramic coated, the H pipe is SS, and the rest is aluminum coated. The entire firewall, floor and roof were sprayed with Lizzard Skin CI. The firewall to the floor has Dynamat followed by the factory firewall pad, and then the rest of the floor has the factory style tar sound deadener mats from ACC. The carpet is the fully Jute backed version from ACC as well. 

 

A dissipation of heat from the exhaust tubes is desired as the exhaust travels to the back of the car when you do not have the same diameter tubing from the front to back such as I do. As the gasses cool so does the density which effectively reduces the amount of air flow and, reduces the need for larger pipes. Though I do have the JBA 1653SJT shorty headers, to keep the factory look I have gone with a factory type exhaust from the H pipe back, but used the 428's 2.25" pipe instead of the 351w's 2.0" pipe. The pipes are close, but not touching anything under the car, so there will be no rattles, and no direct contact heat exchange. The car is being built for fun, not as a race car, not as a daily driver. If I was not here telling you all about the mods to it, most of you would walk up to it at a show or on the street and say its an all original Shelby that looks like it just came off the showroom floor after a couple of test drives. And that is the intention. You're going to have to get on your hands and knees to inspect it, get your head deep into the engine compartment to see more than just the squared off radiator and Sandon A/C compressor. As unless you are going to take wrenches to it so you can look deeper, your not going to see what I've done to it, with a casual observation.

 

Also, how many people ceramic coat their entire exhaust system?

[mqu02 30]

I just got the email thread update, and ended up at work until late last night.  You can make this work with what you have, and I will do my best to get pictures for you either this evening or first thing tomorrow morning.  Until then, if memory serves me correctly, my speedometer cable might be a little longer than yours, and I also think I used a short piece of rubber hose as a secondary heat barrier.  The picture should show this pretty well, and sorry for not being able to get it to you sooner.

[mqu02 30]

I think I see the issue you are having, and it might have to do with the length of your speedometer cable.  I am pretty positive mine is a factory Ford cable, because I am pretty sure I remember seeing Ford part numbers on it when I put this car together several years ago.  The problem with pictures is that it is hard to grasp depth, and even though my speedometer cable is close to the H-Pipe, it is further away than it looks in the picture.  Also, just as a preventative measure, I cut a small piece of rubber hose, and slipped it over the speedometer cable in the area closest to where the heat might affect the cable.  I have several thousand miles on this car so far without issue, and the cable was being used on the car prior to me tearing it apart, so no clue how many total miles it has on it.  This should be the same JBA H-Pipe as you have, and the same JBA shorty headers.  I have the car jacked up right now, so let me know if you want to see any more angles and I will be glad to take some more pictures for you.

[mqu02 30]

As I was looking at the pictures I just posted, it became pretty obvious to me the steel collar on the speedometer cable should have had the clamp around it.  i don't know if that never occurred to me putting it together, or if it slipped out at some point after assembly, however I just went out and adjusted, and it looks factory now.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

3 hours ago, mqu02 said:

I think I see the issue you are having, and it might have to do with the length of your speedometer cable.  I am pretty positive mine is a factory Ford cable, because I am pretty sure I remember seeing Ford part numbers on it when I put this car together several years ago.  The problem with pictures is that it is hard to grasp depth, and even though my speedometer cable is close to the H-Pipe, it is further away than it looks in the picture.  Also, just as a preventative measure, I cut a small piece of rubber hose, and slipped it over the speedometer cable in the area closest to where the heat might affect the cable.  I have several thousand miles on this car so far without issue, and the cable was being used on the car prior to me tearing it apart, so no clue how many total miles it has on it.  This should be the same JBA H-Pipe as you have, and the same JBA shorty headers.  I have the car jacked up right now, so let me know if you want to see any more angles and I will be glad to take some more pictures for you.

 

 

 

 

For comparison purposes, I deleted your other photos and added the one of mine that has mostly the same view as yours. I see your cable comes out and runs behind the transmission floor support and is attached via a clip to the smaller of the two holes on the driver's side support. I do have more cable than shown, just have not run it up and through the firewall yet. Its pretty stiff and I am trying not to make too sharp of a bend in it. The clip holding the cable on the left side of the picture is the original clip, never removed from the floor during my restoration. To help with the bend further back by the trans cross member support I might turn it 180 degrees, improper but it would move the cable further from the H pipe and allow for a larger radius to enter the trans behind the mount. I will also have to look into the clip as in your photo on the trans cross member support.

 

Thank you for taking the time to take and post the photos. It's really interesting that no other 69/70 FMX build has this detail. 

 

David

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

[mqu02 30]

14 minutes ago, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

 

For comparison purposes, I deleted your other photos and added the one of mine that has mostly the same view as yours. I see your cable comes out and runs behind the transmission floor support and is attached via a clip to the smaller of the two holes on the driver's side support. I do have more cable than shown, just have not run it up and through the firewall yet. Its pretty stiff and I am trying not to make too sharp of a bend in it. The clip holding the cable on the left side of the picture is the original clip, never removed from the floor during my restoration. To help with the bend further back by the trans cross member support I might turn it 180 degrees, improper but it would move the cable further from the H pipe and allow for a larger radius to enter the trans behind the mount. I will also have to look into the clip as in your photo on the trans cross member support.

 

Thank you for taking the time to take and post the photos. It's really interesting that no other 69/70 FMX build has this detail. 

 

David

View my build photo album by clicking on the image

No problem at all on this, and I am really glad it helped you out.  I am pretty sure this is this is the clip I used:  https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=379816-S&parent=0&year=0

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

1 hour ago, mqu02 said:

No problem at all on this, and I am really glad it helped you out.  I am pretty sure this is this is the clip I used:  https://www.npdlink.com/store/?p=catalog&mode=newsearch&search_str=379816-S&parent=0&year=0

Interesting, I think I kept most everything I took off the car and I have nothing like that. per the description, it does seem to the be correct part for that location. I'll add it to my next order.

[unilec 57]

How about coming out at the tunnel behind the brace?

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

On 4/12/2018 at 3:00 AM, 69ShelbyGT350H said:

So yes, the light wire runs up the passenger side frame rail and attaches to the passenger under dash light. Now, on to the next problem.

I seem to be having a problem getting my brackets installed correctly on the front of the motor. I have the A/C compressor mount that mounts on the driver's side head, but its currently off to make the other brackets easier to see. 

The problem is with the A/C compressor bracket that mounts on the water pump, and the power steering bracket that also mounts on the water pump. Either I have it wrong, or they both want to share a bolt, and they do not line up well this way. Does anyone have anything that might clarify what I am doing wrong or even if I have the correct parts?

1

Edit Note: The following is an incorrect statement as it causes the A/C bracket to twist instead of just leaning back. The solutions as stated in my next message was a ridge on the aluminum water pump just under the bolt holes for the A/C bracket.

I just want to report that I have resolved the issue with the A/C bracket not fitting correctly. It took an IMPORT guy to stop by and tell me that the A/C bracket goes on the water pump first then the Power Steering pump bracket. What do you know, looks like he is right. Photos to come.

Edited May 16, 2018 by 69ShelbyGT350H
Incorrect information

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Ok, ok, I now have to admit that the import guy was wrong. The PS bracket does go on first, then the A/C bracket. Turns out my aluminum water pump has a little step just under the bolt holes that caused the A/C bracket to tilt back. I had to carefully remove some material from the aluminum water pump so the bracket would stand up straight. 

I will put a notice on my previous message so in the future it will not come up as correct. 

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Took a grungy old alternator, cleaned it up and gave it a little paint job. Now I just hope after all that work that it still works, or a re-build will be in order.

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[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

After weeks of playing with A/C and P/S brackets, install and remove the A/C compressor many times, I think I finally have it on for good. Due to the change to the Holley HP 750 carb I had to make a new fuel line that goes to the passenger side instead of ending on the driver side. Mimicked the factory line out of the pump as it needs to clear the P/S pump hoses before it goes up and under where the lower factory A/C bracket attaches. Instead of popping up on the driver's side of the intake it crosses over the timing chain cover and up on the passenger side.

I lost count of haw many times I've had the brackets, compressor, belts, etc off before I finally got to this point.

Also had the radiator in, and took it back out as well. Issues with the fan hitting the lower side of the shroud, as it was hitting the trans cooler lines and lower radiator hose.

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[Vicfreg 771]

Nice job with the fuel line....

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

18 minutes ago, Vicfreg said:

Nice job with the fuel line....

Thanks, only took me 2 tries. My first line crimped on the 1st bend as I was using the wrong size slot on the bender. Then it was just a lot of test fitting getting all the angles right. In the top view of the motor, you can see the line between the water neck and the coil. I added a little flare to the end of the line after it was in place. Just need to add a rubber line to get it to the dual input line for the carb.

[Vicfreg 771]

How did you add that little "bump" flare?   I have a pretty nice Eastwood flaring tool with 2 sets of dies, but I can't do that factory style bump in the fuel line...

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

1 hour ago, Vicfreg said:

How did you add that little "bump" flare?   I have a pretty nice Eastwood flaring tool with 2 sets of dies, but I can't do that factory style bump in the fuel line...

Wish I could do that "bump", all I could do was to flare it a little with a basic flaring tool so that when a clamp is put on the hose won't just slide off the fuel line. The mechanical pump I installed is supposed to be a 7psi 80gph pump, so I hope to not have to worry about the line blowing off.

[Vicfreg 771]

I have a high flow/pressure mechanical holley pump on my '68, and I have old school fuel hose clamps on the bare tubes with no leaks.   7 psi isn't really much, only about 1/2 of what your cooling system runs at....

 

 

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

My cooling system is going to run at 2 psi. I'll be using Evans Waterless Coolant . Lots of pro's and cons, but I'm using it. Adding the flair to the fuel line is a safety feature. 

Finally got the climate control box fully rebuilt and in the car. New high-density evaporator,  expansion valve and aluminum heater core. All metal parts sandblasted, painted, and a new seal kit installed. I had to do some repairs to the box due to cracking in various areas. I used the repro firewall seal on the inside of the firewall, and the original rubber on the outside to help make for a better insulated seal.

I went a little overboard due to the use of the JBA headers. I used Lizzard Skin CI on the inside of the passenger cabin, from the under the cowl, down the inside of the firewall, across the floor pan to the rear seat. Then sprayed the roof. I then added Dynamat to the inside of the firewall, followed by the factory firewall pad. The factory style carpet has the attached jute padding, and I also put down the factory tar type insulation panels under that. I added 1" of pink insulation to the underside of the roof, and under the cowl. Overkill? I am expecting some extra engine noise I'd rather keep it out of the passenger cabin, and I want the A/C to work GREAT! I am in Florida after all.

Proper "S" hose and heater control valve has been installed. The proper Ford striped heater hose and clamps as well.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

I had to take a few things apart as I forgot that the brake line had to go under the A/C and heat lines, behind the engine and under the power brake booster. With that taken care of, I finished installing the radiator and have all the heater hoses in place. Ended up missing 1 hose clamp.

Did not what to "modify" my original throttle bracket as I found its worth about $90, so I purchased and modified a Holley replacement part.

Hot air snorkel is almost complete

 

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Working towards getting the engine started, got the trans fluid in, power steering pump filled and leaks in the ram fixed.

Before putting the Evans Waterless in I decided to pressure check the cooling system with air and found a leak at the driver's side front water passage. The Fel Pro gaskets have a cutout that will allow water to exit the engine in the event of a water passage leak. This is where the air was leaking out of the cooling system.

Looking at the intake, there is a lot of corrosion around the edges of the water port, and it seems this allowed water air to get past the thin area at the bottom of the water port and into the discharge cutout.

I have switched to a Mr.Gasket 210 intake gasket that does not have the water path cutout and the water port is now sealed.

Edited June 11, 2018 by 69ShelbyGT350H
Pressure testing was done with air, not water

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

I installed the Mr.Gasket gaskets along with the intake. I let it set 24 hours after doing all the proper torquing of the 16 intake bolts and before doing another pressure test. This time it's leaking out the thermostat housing against the intake. Another issue of the aluminum intake corrosion. I took the thermostat housing off and used 180 grit then 220 grit sandpaper on a block to flatten the intake's thermostat opening out and get as much good flat metal for the seal as possible. After re-installing the thermostat housing and hooking up all the hoses I did an air pressure test again. Spraying the components down with soapy water showed only minor foaming, but no bubbling at the gasket joints. As water (or Evans Waterless in this case) is harder to pass through areas that air can go, I decided to go ahead and fill the cooling system with the Evans Waterless and let it sit another 24 hours before doing another pressure test. This will allow the liquid to soak into the paper gaskets and hopefully allow them to swell, sealing off any other of these small openings that the air was using to escape. Per Evans, I can use a 2lb cap on the radiator. This will drastically reduce the chances of liquid being forced out between the gaskets, stress on the heater core and all the rubber hoses and their connections via the hose clamps. And as it is not water, the continuation of corrosion and electrolysis will not be present.