1969 Shelby GT350H Build

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Kinda looks like the other photos, but now it has been sanded and buffed.

[RPM 1,190]

Looking good.

[bigmal 225]

Thats looks really nice. Can't wait to see the finished product.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Getting little things done. Working on the rear drum brakes, brake tubing, diff lube, and venting. Installed underlayment and dropped the carpet in. Installing door handles and window regulators. Installed new E brake cables as well.

[MAC390 327]

Nice work, looking good.Partial to Candy apple red.

 

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

A new medication made me sick for a couple of weeks, so progress slowed down again. I was able to install Dynamat on the firewall and then worked on the JBA Stainless H pipe.

The 2.5" pipe makes for a tight fit, but it does fit. It needs a slight shift to the driver's side still. Looks like I'll have to drop the entire H pipe if I need to get to the transmission pan in the future.

It tucks up nice and neet under the car.

[MAC390 327]

Nice pipes, and neat, wish i had your room in the engine bay. It 's a mission to get the trans  pan off mine with the super comps on.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

1 hour ago, MAC390 said:

Nice pipes, and neat, wish i had your room in the engine bay. It 's a mission to get the trans  pan off mine with the super comps on.

414ci in a small block format definitely makes working on and around it much easier. Nice to see your car finally back together.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Opened up the steering box and scooped out chunks of old dried up grease. Ended up using a wash tank and other solvents to get all the old grease out and new synthetic in. Visual inspection did not show any excessive wear that would require a rebuild.

My center console amp meter wiring had a failure back in the early 1980's that burned up the wiring and both of the gauges. I purchased new gauges a long time ago and just got the new wiring to hook them up.

Still working on sorting out all the accessories and mounting brackets for the engine and engine bay.

[MAC390 327]

Nice work.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Can anyone enlighten me on the routing of the rear seat courtesy light wiring? I do not remember removing it, so I'm a little lost as to how to run the extension wire from the driver's side to the passenger side. Least I think it does not go across the roof as there is way too much wire for that.

[bigmal 225]

On my Mach 1 it ran down the side kick panel and along the door sill with the main loom. Not sure about the RH side but I think the same.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

57 minutes ago, bigmal said:

On my Mach 1 it ran down the side kick panel and along the door sill with the main loom. Not sure about the RH side but I think the same.

Yes, the driver's side comes out of the main rear wire harness around the driver's side rear wheel well. From there it runs up to the sail panel to the driver's side light. There is not a wire harness that runs down the passenger side to do this, so this extension wire plugs into the driver's side before the light and splits the POS power for the driver's side, and then the long wire for the POS on the passenger side. Anyone with a fastback that can see the route or knows the route this wire takes to get from the driver's side to the passenger side if you would not mind letting me know? I've checked both the 69/70 wiring and the 69 assembly books but they do not show the wire, just the lights in the sail panels.

 

Actually just found these photos that show a wire going up from the front of the passenger side wheel well to the passenger sail panel. So it looks like the extension wire ran across the rear floor?

Maybe it attached to the passenger front under dash light? I see the wire running forward in the passenger sill as bigmal mentioned.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

So yes, the light wire runs up the passenger side frame rail and attaches to the passenger under dash light. Now, on to the next problem.

I seem to be having a problem getting my brackets installed correctly on the front of the motor. I have the A/C compressor mount that mounts on the driver's side head, but its currently off to make the other brackets easier to see. 

The problem is with the A/C compressor bracket that mounts on the water pump, and the power steering bracket that also mounts on the water pump. Either I have it wrong, or they both want to share a bolt, and they do not line up well this way. Does anyone have anything that might clarify what I am doing wrong or even if I have the correct parts?

[mqu02 30]

This is really hard to take a picture of when everything is installed in the car, but you are on the right track with the way you are putting it together.  The picture I attached of mine shows the power steering bracket behind the AC bracket.  Does this help at all?

[mqu02 30]

Here is another one that might help, and I can take some more too - just let me know.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

3 hours ago, mqu02 said:

This is really hard to take a picture of when everything is installed in the car, but you are on the right track with the way you are putting it together.  The picture I attached of mine shows the power steering bracket behind the AC bracket.  Does this help at all?

 

 

Right now anything helps. It's kinda hard for me to even take photos with my compressor out with all the brackets in the way. When I put my A/C bracket on over the steering bracket, my A/C bracket seems to want to tilt back as the two bolts on the top of the water pump are tightened. Kinda like the PS bracket should not be there for this A/C bracket. I'm going to bolt on the compressor support bracket on the head, and place the compressor on for a mockup and see how things line up. Pictures to follow.

[mqu02 30]

I am pretty positive the upper AC bracket you are having problems with is different between the 302 and 351, and I know the bracket for the Cleveland is different too.  Saying all that, I really don't know what the differences are between the different brackets.  Does your bracket look like this one:

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9oz-2888-b.html?attribs=88

Edit:  That link also says the bracket for a '70+ Windsor is different too, so it must be a "one year only" bracket.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Worked on the power steering components today. Rebuilt the steering ram, just a process of replacing the shaft seals. My control valve was rusted up and I was doing more harm than good when I was attempting to take it apart for a rebuild, so I purchased a reman unit.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

On 4/12/2018 at 8:38 PM, mqu02 said:

I am pretty positive the upper AC bracket you are having problems with is different between the 302 and 351, and I know the bracket for the Cleveland is different too.  Saying all that, I really don't know what the differences are between the different brackets.  Does your bracket look like this one:

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c9oz-2888-b.html?attribs=88

Edit:  That link also says the bracket for a '70+ Windsor is different too, so it must be a "one year only" bracket.

The 69 351w bracket seems to be unique to this application. With out drawing on the photos, I know it makes it hard to see exactly what I am looking at. the A/C compressor bracket is bolted to the head. That one is not the issue. Its the other one that goes up and attaches to the top of the compressor, where that bracket mounts to the water pump. Looks like one mount shares the same bolt as the power steering bracket on the water pump. The upper A/C bracket is where the idler/tension pully goes, and to me, it looks like this bracket it leaning back. Maybe it's just me.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

I purchased a Grams Wideband 02 sensor to help me tune my Holley HP 750 carb. It came with Bosh 17025 5 wire LSU 4.9 heated sensor. My JBA H pipe has a pair of 02 sensor bungs installed as you can see in the attached photo between the bell housing and main body of the FMX. A while back I think I read that you can damage a "heated" 02 sensor if you do not power it up when you run the engine. Anyone know if this is true or not?

As I only have a single meter, I was hoping to buy a 2nd 02 sensor and have both pigtails in the car and switch back and forth so as not to have to crawl under the car and move the sensor back and forth to sample each bank. 

Yea, now I see there are gauges that have two sensor inputs, but that was after I purchased this one, and they are also a bit more pricey than the $150 that I paid for my Grams kit. Grams also seems to be a respected brand.

 

Assembly update, ignore the LED lights hanging below the valance.

Power Assist control valve and power ram. What a PITA the hoses were to install.

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

So I got the drop bracket from NPD, the power ram now clears the JBA H pipe nicely. I may take it off and round off the bottom to make it look a little more like the original. Hate to as it does look like a nice piece. 

Still need to figure out the proper routing for those power steering hoses though.

Added the slosh tubes to the front and rear metering blocks as well as the clear float bowl sight holes. Note that you can not leave these on as they will yellow due to the fule.

[Raven R code 281]

Great work and progress!

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Still not sure my AC brackets are on correctly. Going to have to take the compressor off (it's only on for fitment) to get the distributor hold down bolt on!

[69ShelbyGT350H 61]

Worked on the exhaust the past couple of days. It's a 351w so the factory would have put a small block 2" exhaust on it. I complicated things by instead, installing the larger big block 2.25" exhaust, and as you all know, the JBA Shorties and 2.5" H pipe. I did have to have the 2.25" pipes modified slightly, 1st to match up to the H pipe, and 2nd, to remove the restrictive reduction where the pipes exit the muffler for the tips to be added. In my case, the Shelby exhaust collector accepts a 2.25" pipe so the restricted area for the adapter pipe (yes, even the GT500's got one) was cut off and a 2.25" pipe was welded on removing all the small pipe restrictions. I did dimple the H pipe for more clearance around the back of the trans pan so the pipes fit up very tightly and will have no interference with other items. Had to remove the rear shocks and do a lot of manipulation to get the transverse muffler with all 4 tubes in place, but we did it. It only took 3 people about an hour just for that part.

View my build photo album by clicking on the image