Raven R code 281 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 installed windshield last night. I ran a 3/8's bead of adhesive and I'm now wondering if it sits too low. The trim rivet is marked by the yellow arrow. The depth from the glass to red arrow is about 1/2". Just one of those things you never really pay attention to when dismantling. thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 If it is so close to the bottom of the channel a cutting blade will not fit between the glass and the channel it is to low .I had to bust up a brand new car lite widshield because the glass shop set it to deep and i couldnt cut it loose in my CJ when i started to restore it. Set a piece of the trim in place to see if it sets to low below the roof line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 You can purchase one of those tools installers use that cuts through the urethane to remove the windshield. These windshields were originally bonded in with butyl. It's in a roll, very sticky, about 1/2" thick. I've heard from others on this forum that the urethane bonds better. But after a glass installer messed up mine, I removed it, cleaned off all the urethane, and reinstalled it with butyl. My local body and paint supply store carried it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 Anyone what an acceptable gap is? It just seemed that this new 3M adhesive "squishes down" or flattens out too easily. This sucks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 First off I am no expert. I think mine was some where between 1/4 to 3/8" but I was using repo trim if that matters. I did as Ridge suggested and placed the shims put the glass down on the shims and trial fitted the side and top trim. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 My gold 69 has never had the glass out,it shows 5/16 or just slightly over 1/4 inch 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 31 minutes ago, Raven R code said: Anyone what an acceptable gap is? It just seemed that this new 3M adhesive "squishes down" or flattens out too easily. This sucks. That's partly why I went the old school way of using butyl. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 I have laways used the rope or ribbon on my windows ,never had a leak and if you set the car in the sun you can push the window to the depth you want it to be Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MAC390 327 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 My screen sat in like the pic posted by Ridge Runner and used factory trim molds. My windscreen guy used the butyl tape . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigmal 225 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 24 minutes ago, MAC390 said: My screen sat in like the pic posted by Ridge Runner and used factory trim molds. My windscreen guy used the butyl tape . Hi Wally, Is your guy from up your way as I need my screen installed this week. I was going to do it myself but reading this I'm getting a little nervous. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 The only problem would be making sure the channel and the glass is as clean as possible ...even no fingerprints on the sealing surface . The rope or ribbon is usually thicker that final set ,you push the glass into it for the proper depth ,just be carefull ,some of the new glass is thinner than the original and you can snap it. I like the round rope seal more than the flat ribbon ,the round seems a bit easier to control the depth Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted October 5, 2017 So.....I measured 1/2" down all the way around the glass! I did this 30 yrs ago as a kid and just slapped it in without thinking and came out perfect. But I used the old butyl! 1st Major setback.....ugh Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted October 6, 2017 Before I pulled my windshield, I took a pair of vernier calipers and measured the depth from the outside face of the windshield to the the metal base it rests on. That number was .440". Good luck. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted October 6, 2017 I always in the 69-70 use urethane, but you have to know what you're doing or it will be a mess. I use Essex 418-HV and apply to the glass with a guide on the tip. Next I used a couple of setting blocks at the top on the pinchweld to make sure the glass stays at the proper height. Then go ahead and install the moldings to make sure you have the correct gap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted October 7, 2017 If you plan on using butyl, then go with 5/16 square not round . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
aslanefe 333 Report post Posted October 7, 2017 Many years ago I had a new windshield and rear glass specially manufactured for my 70 Grande. The rear glass has very thin wires embedded in between the 2 layers of glass going up and down almost all width of the glass. The ends of the wires are sitting on copper strips on top and bottom. Connected the 2 copper strips to the wires that powered the original blower that was on the package tray (the one that blows on the glass to clear the fog on the inside when it is cold and humid). When I turn the switch on, the ice, fog etc melts. They called it hidden resistor glass. You can see the wires if you are real close to the glass and the light/sun is hitting at the right angle. That company installed the windshield with what looked like a ribbon or butyl sealer that had a wire embedded in it. They laid the ribbon, crossed the ends and stripped the butyl at the end to expose the wire. They set the glass and aligned it. Then attached the 2 exposed wires to the battery. The wires heated the tape and softened, they pressed on the glass while adjusting the depth and position, when everything was set, they disconnected the battery and waited a little for the tape to harden. Don't know what that material with embedded wire is called. 2 Midlife and JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted October 7, 2017 9 hours ago, aslanefe said: Many years ago I had a new windshield and rear glass specially manufactured for my 70 Grande. The rear glass has very thin wires embedded in between the 2 layers of glass going up and down almost all width of the glass. The ends of the wires are sitting on copper strips on top and bottom. Connected the 2 copper strips to the wires that powered the original blower that was on the package tray (the one that blows on the glass to clear the fog on the inside when it is cold and humid). When I turn the switch on, the ice, fog etc melts. They called it hidden resistor glass. You can see the wires if you are real close to the glass and the light/sun is hitting at the right angle. That company installed the windshield with what looked like a ribbon or butyl sealer that had a wire embedded in it. They laid the ribbon, crossed the ends and stripped the butyl at the end to expose the wire. They set the glass and aligned it. Then attached the 2 exposed wires to the battery. The wires heated the tape and softened, they pressed on the glass while adjusting the depth and position, when everything was set, they disconnected the battery and waited a little for the tape to harden. Don't know what that material with embedded wire is called. Now that's really slick! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted November 16, 2017 Reading through all of these it appears everyone uses either butyl or urethane. Why does CJ sell a 3M Windshield Ribbon sealer for 69 and up? Why would they add a layer of rubber in there? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted November 17, 2017 The ribbon is flat like the original was ,the round is what my local glass shop calles a rope so CJ must have the flat type sealer. I used to buy the flat type from Ford ,i havnt bought one in a while but they probably still have it. The original flat seal had a small cord molded in the sealer Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 Thank you Ridge Runner. If you use Urethane why would you use the flat seal? Are both used for the windshield? I have a guy coming out to do the windshield in a week or so. He was planning on just Urethane. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 I dont use both ,urethane is in a caulking tube ,it is used to glue the glass in instead of the rope or ribbon .either one is good all by itself. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted November 18, 2017 2 hours ago, Ridge Runner said: I dont use both ,urethane is in a caulking tube ,it is used to glue the glass in instead of the rope or ribbon .either one is good all by itself. Thank you, Watched a couple of youtube videos. The help here has been great. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ralt962 11 Report post Posted November 19, 2017 23 hours ago, Ridge Runner said: I dont use both ,urethane is in a caulking tube ,it is used to glue the glass in instead of the rope or ribbon .either one is good all by itself. Sorry Ridge Runner, one last question. Do you use any sealer on the rear window gasket? I dont plan to drive in the rain, but you never know. I live in Michigan. I saw one post where they used a little urethane between the gasket and the glass and some type of sealer between the gasket and the pinch flange. But videos I've watched dont show the use of any sealer on the rear. Thanks, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted November 19, 2017 Sealer will go between the glass and the rubber and the rubber and the body channel ,it is in a caulking tube from 3M ,I think RPM may have the part number ? We did his back window not long ago.It will take at least 3 tubes to seal it up good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted November 19, 2017 3M part #8509. 2 JayEstes and Ridge Runner reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites