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Raven R code

~ 1969 windshield depth .......

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installed windshield last night. I ran a 3/8's bead of adhesive and I'm now wondering if it sits too low. The trim rivet is marked by the yellow arrow.  The depth from the glass to red arrow is about 1/2". Just one of those things you never really pay attention to when dismantling.

 

thanks

 

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If it is so close to the bottom of the channel a cutting blade will not fit between the glass and the channel it is to low .I had to bust up a brand new car lite widshield because the glass shop set it to deep and i couldnt cut it loose in my CJ when i started to restore it. 

Set a piece of the trim in place to see if it sets to low below the roof line.

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You can purchase one of those tools installers use that cuts through the urethane to remove the windshield.

These windshields were originally bonded in with butyl.  It's in a roll, very sticky, about 1/2" thick.  I've heard from others on this forum that the urethane bonds better.  But after a glass installer messed up mine, I removed it, cleaned off all the urethane, and reinstalled it with butyl.  My local body and paint supply store carried it.

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First off I am no expert.  I think mine was some where between 1/4 to 3/8"  but I was using repo trim if that matters. I did as Ridge suggested and placed the shims put the glass down on the shims and trial fitted the side and top trim.

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24 minutes ago, MAC390 said:

My screen sat in like the pic posted by Ridge Runner and used factory trim molds.

My windscreen guy used the butyl tape .

Hi Wally, Is your guy from up your way as I need my screen installed this week. I was going to do it myself but reading this I'm getting a little nervous.

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The only problem would be making sure the channel and the glass is as clean as possible ...even no fingerprints on the sealing surface . The rope or ribbon is usually thicker that final set ,you push the glass into it for the proper depth ,just be carefull ,some of the new glass is thinner than the original and you can snap it. I like the round rope seal more than the flat ribbon ,the round seems a bit easier to control the depth 

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I  always in the 69-70 use urethane, but you have to know what  you're doing or it will be a mess. I use Essex 418-HV and apply to the glass with a guide on the tip. Next I used a couple of setting blocks at the top on the pinchweld to make sure the glass stays at the proper height. Then go ahead and  install the  moldings to  make sure you have the  correct  gap.

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Many years ago I had a new windshield and rear glass specially manufactured for my 70 Grande. The rear glass has very thin wires embedded in between the 2 layers of glass going up and down almost all width of the glass. The ends of the wires are sitting on copper strips on top and bottom. Connected the 2 copper strips to the wires that powered the original blower that was on the package tray (the one that blows on the glass to clear the fog on the inside when it is cold and humid). When I turn the switch on, the ice, fog etc melts. They called it hidden resistor glass. You can see the wires if you are real close to the glass and the light/sun is hitting at the right angle.

That company installed the windshield with what looked like a ribbon or butyl sealer that had a wire embedded in it. They laid the ribbon, crossed the ends and stripped the butyl at the end to expose the wire. They set the glass and aligned it. Then attached the 2 exposed wires to the battery. The wires heated the tape and softened, they pressed on the glass while adjusting the depth and position, when everything was set, they disconnected the battery and waited a little for the tape to harden. Don't know what that material with embedded wire is called.

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9 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Many years ago I had a new windshield and rear glass specially manufactured for my 70 Grande. The rear glass has very thin wires embedded in between the 2 layers of glass going up and down almost all width of the glass. The ends of the wires are sitting on copper strips on top and bottom. Connected the 2 copper strips to the wires that powered the original blower that was on the package tray (the one that blows on the glass to clear the fog on the inside when it is cold and humid). When I turn the switch on, the ice, fog etc melts. They called it hidden resistor glass. You can see the wires if you are real close to the glass and the light/sun is hitting at the right angle.

That company installed the windshield with what looked like a ribbon or butyl sealer that had a wire embedded in it. They laid the ribbon, crossed the ends and stripped the butyl at the end to expose the wire. They set the glass and aligned it. Then attached the 2 exposed wires to the battery. The wires heated the tape and softened, they pressed on the glass while adjusting the depth and position, when everything was set, they disconnected the battery and waited a little for the tape to harden. Don't know what that material with embedded wire is called.

Now that's really slick!

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Reading through all of these it appears everyone uses either butyl or  urethane.  Why does CJ sell a 3M Windshield Ribbon sealer for 69 and up?  Why would they add a layer of rubber in there?

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The ribbon is flat like the original was ,the round is what my local glass shop calles a rope so CJ must have the flat type sealer. I used to buy the flat type from Ford ,i havnt bought one in a while but they probably still have it. The original flat seal had a  small cord molded in the sealer 

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Thank you Ridge Runner.  If you use Urethane why would you use the flat seal?  Are both used for the windshield?  I have a guy coming out to do the windshield in a week or so.  He was planning on just Urethane.

 

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2 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I dont use both ,urethane is in a caulking tube ,it is used to glue the glass in instead of the rope or ribbon .either one is good all by itself. 

Thank you,  Watched a couple of youtube videos.  The help here has been great.

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23 hours ago, Ridge Runner said:

I dont use both ,urethane is in a caulking tube ,it is used to glue the glass in instead of the rope or ribbon .either one is good all by itself. 

Sorry Ridge Runner, one last question.  Do you use any sealer on the rear window gasket?  I dont plan to drive in the rain, but you never know.  I live in Michigan.  I saw one post where they used a little urethane between the gasket and the glass and some type of sealer between the gasket and the pinch flange.   But videos I've watched dont show the use of any sealer on the rear.  Thanks,

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