Mirror cables

[Mach1 Driver 560]

9 minutes ago, aslanefe said:

Have you thought about installing electric mirror to passenger side? You can put the motor inside your mirror and install the switch anywhere you want. There is a DYI of installing Honda mirror parts.

Yes I have thought about it, but decided to give this a try first.

[aslanefe 333]

Thinking out loud; Torino jojstick is chrome, ball is not. Jojstick must be installed to the ball later otherwise ball would have been chrome plated also (it may be screwed in or swaged after inserting the joystick to the ball). There is no way to put the spring, spring plunger and ball inside unless the backside (with 3 legs) is a separate piece. Looks like the legs are attached to front piece by some means (glue, tight fit?).  Wonder if they used the cable shieds (that looks like tight wound spring) as screws to attach the back case to front case? You mentioned someone said to turn the wire 5 turns and it comes out, may be they meant to turn cable shields and the backside seperates from front leaving ball, spring etc accessible.

On the Mustang remote, you can remove the cables. Wonder how did they put the spring, plunger and the ball inside the case? Case looks to be one piece, can't see any joints on my Cougar mirror controller that looks like your 2nd picture. It does not look like the ball part would come out of the gaps of the casing either.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

54 minutes ago, aslanefe said:

Thinking out loud; Torino jojstick is chrome, ball is not. Jojstick must be installed to the ball later otherwise ball would have been chrome plated also (it may be screwed in or swaged after inserting the joystick to the ball).

I agree they are separate pieces but they don't to screw together, although they may be swaged.

There is no way to put the spring, spring plunger and ball inside unless the backside (with 3 legs) is a separate piece. Looks like the legs are attached to front piece by some means (glue, tight fit?). 

The legs and body are diecast as one piece. I believe the spring is placed in the housing from the top, the cables positioned and staked to the ball, and the ball lowered into the housing. Then the joystick is pushed down to compress the spring- that extends the cables from the far end. They are positioned through holes in the mirror backplate and connectors are attached to the cable ends to prevent them from going through the holes. Then the mirror is glued in place.

Wonder if they used the cable shieds (that looks like tight wound spring) as screws to attach the back case to front case? You mentioned someone said to turn the wire 5 turns and it comes out, may be they meant to turn cable shields and the backside seperates from front leaving ball, spring etc accessible.

No, enough is visible to see that the legs are there to act as stops for the cable sheath (the spring cover). This "spring" sets the entire length of the assembly so the cables may push and pull to move the mirror.

On the Mustang remote, you can remove the cables. Wonder how did they put the spring, plunger and the ball inside the case? Case looks to be one piece, can't see any joints on my Cougar mirror controller that looks like your 2nd picture. It does not look like the ball part would come out of the gaps of the casing either.

 

[aslanefe 333]

Okay don't know your machining capabilities but this is how I would do it if I do not want to cut the wire crimps. Cut slots the length of the stand offs wide enough for the wire (dremel). The wires come out inside the housing then go to the ball. Mark those holes inside the case where the wires come out on outside the case and drill holes big enough for the crimped wire ends to pass through (drill press or hand drill; before the hole breaks out, I would sharpen a drill bit with a very wide angle at the end or use a mill cutter to finish the hole and not damage the wire). End the slots you cut on the legs at the holes. This way when you press on the joystick, you can pull the cable shields a little bit, pull the wires through the slots. This may give you enough slack to pull the ball outside of the housing and remove the wires from the ball. Then you can pull the wire crimps from the holes you drilled. After you swap the mirror housing, put it back in reverse order and put a zip tie or wrap wire around the legs close to wire shield.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

10 hours ago, aslanefe said:

Okay don't know your machining capabilities but this is how I would do it if I do not want to cut the wire crimps. Cut slots the length of the stand offs wide enough for the wire (dremel). The wires come out inside the housing then go to the ball. Mark those holes inside the case where the wires come out on outside the case and drill holes big enough for the crimped wire ends to pass through (drill press or hand drill; before the hole breaks out, I would sharpen a drill bit with a very wide angle at the end or use a mill cutter to finish the hole and not damage the wire). End the slots you cut on the legs at the holes. This way when you press on the joystick, you can pull the cable shields a little bit, pull the wires through the slots. This may give you enough slack to pull the ball outside of the housing and remove the wires from the ball. Then you can pull the wire crimps from the holes you drilled. After you swap the mirror housing, put it back in reverse order and put a zip tie or wrap wire around the legs close to wire shield.

That's pretty close to what I expect will need to be done. This is a excellent reason to buy the mini-mill I always wanted!! After all, ya gotta have the right tool for the job ;)

[aslanefe 333]

8 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

That's pretty close to what I expect will need to be done. This is a excellent reason to buy the mini-mill I always wanted!! After all, ya gotta have the right tool for the job ;)

That is going to be one expensive mirror.

[aslanefe 333]

FYI.

While I was looking for something on my shelves, I found the right side remote mirror I have. The controller is the easy to remove the cables kind. The part numbers on the base is D2Gb-17713AW casting number is JC60455-001 RH and number on base gasket is D4GB-17724 AA. 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

2 hours ago, aslanefe said:

FYI.

While I was looking for something on my shelves, I found the right side remote mirror I have. The controller is the easy to remove the cables kind. The part numbers on the base is D2Gb-17713AW casting number is JC60455-001 RH and number on base gasket is D4GB-17724 AA. 

Thanks, my mirror didn't come with the chrome nut to attach the controller. I found one that included the controller with the cables cut off just below the base. It has just arrived, and is the version that gives access to the cables via the sides. So between the two controllers I hope to make something that works. 

Did you actually attach the mirror to the car? I was hoping to find someone who could share with me where they had drilled the A pillar and door.

[aslanefe 333]

No I have not attached the mirror to one of my cars yet. Don't know how it is mounted on 70s full size Fords, but was thinking of using the holes that the door light and speaker wires go through.