What direct fit Aluminum Radiator is there

[prayers1 153]

I have  an original new Big block Radiator, 195 Stat, Flow Kooler water pump, Factory Shroud, Aluminum Flex Fan.  I run 50/50 with the additive that makes it run cooler (can't remember the name).

Rebuilt/Stroked 351C to a 408 with Alum Heads & Intake.

Last night it was on the cool side and drove around town and of course I got on it a few times the temp stayed around 207-210.  With the prior motor 351C and same set up it would run around 195.

I believe during the daytime warmer days It would be above 210. I don't want to ruin this motor it's one I'm finally happy with.

I'm looking to run it cooler and think an aluminum Rad and electric fan set up would help.

I looking for a direct fit nothing that has to be modified or bulges out at the seams.

What do you all think?

[1969_Mach1 333]

Griffin makes direct fit aluminum radiators.

It's not a bit surprising this motor runs a little hotter.  That cannot be avoided.  I would remove that 195 deg thermostat and install a 180 or possibly a 160 degree high flow thermostat.  Something from MR. Gasket or better yet EMP Stewart with the three bypass holes in it.  If you are using a high flow water pump you should also use a high flow thermostat.  As of now, your operating temps are not far above the thermostat setting.  So with a different thermostat you might not need an aluminum radiator.

For myself, 180-190 degrees are better operating temps for these older type motors.  Keep in mind, overheating can also cause damage beyond just the overheating issue, the piston rings can loose their elasticity and "collapse".

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I have always ran a 160 thermostat,the runnig temp is usually around 180-190.The last car show i attended was in the summer and we had a  parade line at the end .Hoods were poping up in front of me and behind me but mine  stayed cool all the way through and i had a brass radiator ,and i had a 292 comp cam.I also had a 4 speed so that may have help keep temps down.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Make sure that the bypass plate is installed and use the correct thermostat for the C engine. A W stat will not work.

I ran the Robert Shaw 180 stat and it would fully open at 187 and stay there high point was 195 sitting in traffic for 15 minutes and drop back down when even slightly moving forward.

Standard 24 inch radiator with Ac and clutch fan 7 blade.

I did try a 160 stat, But with the strip dominator intake on the C engine did not like it.

[jholmes217 65]

I recommend you try a clutch fan set up.  I was running a factory shroud, Edelbrock water pump, Robert Shaw 195 thermostat, and a flex fan.  My car overheated in a parade.  I put a 428 Cobra Jet reproduction clutch fan on, and now it stays nice and cool.

[latoracing 256]

If you decide to go with a different radiator, and possibly an electric fan setup, check out https://www.crracing.com/mustang_cougar_radiator_69_70_sbf_passenger_side_inlet_outlet_transmission_oil_cooler_accepts as another source. They have some pretty wild applications for the custom stuff too. 

 

[prayers1 153]

I made a mistake. I found that my records show that I have a Motorcraft 180° Cleveland specific thermostat.

I do have the metal 24" radiator and the bypass plate installed.

The CCR Alum. Radiator seems kinda pricey

 

[latoracing 256]

13 minutes ago, prayers1 said:

I made a mistake. I found that my records show that I have a Motorcraft 180° Cleveland specific thermostat.

I do have the metal 24" radiator and the bypass plate installed.

The CCR Alum. Radiator seems kinda pricey

 

Very pricey, (looked at the price after I posed it) sorry :(

[1969_Mach1 333]

You might find something less expensive on EBay, or maybe a Champion brand.  Otherwise, all the aluminum radiators for these cars seem to be in the $700 price range.  That is about what I paid for my Griffin almost 10 years ago.

I would remove that Motorcraft 180 degree thermostat and try a Mr. Gasket 160 degree high flow thermostat before investing in a new radiator.

[MN69Grande 203]

I put this one in for a 347 replacing a 3 row copper radiator.  It made a huge difference.  I also had tried a 4 row copper radiator and had some over heating.  This one has the bigger tubes for increased cooling.  I drove the car in high 90 degree weather and it held up pretty good.

https://www.dallasmustang.com/parts/cooling-heating/radiators-accessories/24-maxcore-aluminum-radiator-1968-1969-v8-2-row.html

[Bob & Sue 110]

I'll add one more thing I would go with the THERMAL Factory Clutch, Correct Factory Fan, Correct Factory Shroud & Correct SPACER this setup will cool any combination with a 24" 3 row copper radiator with auto trans & a/c.

I wouldn't buy an aluminum rad unless it was a last resort then I'd go aluminum rad with dual fans.

Just my opinion I've had a GT500 428 that never ran hot running 100 mph for over an hour in Nevada on a 90* day took it up to 150 mph for several minutes then back down to 100 mph. This was between Reno & Vegas we were in a hurry to get back home.  

[det0326 179]

If you have to go with an aluminum radiator, I used this one and am well pleased with it. Mine is 351W  lunati voodoo cam with aluminum top end, non stroker. FiTech is controlling the fans  and driving in mid 90"s days here in SC I have never seen it over 195* hammering on it or not.. Actually the fans never come on except in stop and go traffic.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMI-TECH-1967-1970-FORD-MUSTANG-COUGAR-CUSTOM-ALUMINUM-RADIATOR-W-SPAL-FANS-/290910703371?hash=item43bba10f0b:g:16IAAOSwkthZl1Rl&vxp=mtr

[prayers1 153]

Would it be best to go with JUST cooling fans???

https://www.dallasmustang.com/radiators-shrouds-electric-fan-kit-1968-1969-for-24-quot-radiators-2-fan-assembly.html

[det0326 179]

If your temp is running a little high in stop and go traffic then the electric fans would probably help but if your temp is creeping up while hammering on it on open road with plenty air flowing then fans would not help your situation.

[Bob & Sue 110]

I would research what the difference between a Thermal Clutch Fan is compared to a centrifugal clutch fan vs trying to adapt an electric fan.

1)  Thermal Clutch Fan only locks the clutch when temperature exceeds a certain temp if under that temp it spins freely not using any horse power.

2)  Centrifugal clutch fan locks under whatever rpm it's designed for meaning it will lock at lower rpms using horse power and spin at about 60% of the rated clutch.

I would only go the electric route if it were my last resort. How does it mount, will it fit your radiator, do you have the equipment to fabricate mounts, etc are several questions to consider.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I agree with Bob and Sue, electric fans are a last resort.  I don't like them so much because of the noise and also they need a lot of amperage to operate.  This means upgrading the charging system and wiring to provide and handle more amperage.

I switched from an aftermarket, Derale brand, 17" flex fan to an original 17"-7 blade thermal clutch fan setup.  I found the fan on EBay advertised for Cougars and Shelby GT 350's with 351W motors and A/C, and purchased the thermal clutch from my local NAPA store.  The engine temps are lower than were before.  Even when in "disengaged" mode the thermal clutch fan moves more air than the aftermarket flex fan did.

[mustangstofear 608]

w.mustangstofear.com/page.php?page=parts_catalog&yr=69-70&cat=cooling&prod=aluminum_radiator_w_fansww

[barnett468 418]

where do you live?

how far over is it bored?

Nobody can make a specific reasonable/accurate suggestion until they know all the parts you have and exactly when the prob occurs. As far as having the right t stat, it is possible it is part of the problem as the repos are hit and miss as far as sealing correctly . the best one is made by a guy in australia . he also makes the brass insert, however, you can simply jb weld a small freeze plug into the brass plate then drill the freeze plug with a 1/8" hole then use a brass milodon 180 or 190 t stat.

need ALL the info on the rad. also take a photo of the tubes thru the rad cap hole and post it.

post a photo of the fan.

if your timing is not set properly it can cause it to run hotter than it otherwise would.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[prayers1 153]

MTF- Nice stuff but your items are always too pricey for me.

1969_Mach1- I did a search on eBay and found several different 7 blades types. Would you know what your part number is? Thank you.

 

[Rsanter 152]

Do not run a non-Cleveland specific thermostat. If you do you cause a coolant short that will flow across the front of the engine block. You will have cooler water temps but the engine itself will be hotter.

dont worry so much about coolant temp. If you really want to know things install an oil temp sensor.

depending on the oil temp you may want to install an oil cooler to remove engine heat that way.

oil is what is used to cool the lower portions of the engine, very important

 

bob

[1969_Mach1 333]

3 hours ago, prayers1 said:

MTF- Nice stuff but your items are always too pricey for me.

1969_Mach1- I did a search on eBay and found several different 7 blades types. Would you know what your part number is? Thank you.

 

I'll look at mine.  Here is a video from West Coast Classic Cougar on cooling systems.  In the video he installs a big block clutch fan setup as part of the upgrade.  I wish I would have seen this when I was fighting cooling system issues.  It would have save me money from buying an aluminum radiator.

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=west+coast+classic+cougars+cooling+system+upgrade&qpvt=west+coast+classic+cougars+cooling+system+upgrade&view=detail&mid=63B160AEBA68E8D7423C63B160AEBA68E8D7423C&FORM=VRDGAR

[prayers1 153]

1969_Mach1- Great Video! Thanks.

WCCC also puts out nice informative videos. I actually spoke to the guy/owner in the video about shock tower reinforcement brackets. He took his time with me, explained what I needed and I ended up buying another set from him that actually was a much better fit.

On my way to order the BB fan kit.

[prayers1 153]

Wow! The Repro Fan is $246 and clutch is $53. I'm gonna shop for a used one for now.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I know that repro fan, probably made in China, is way overpriced.  You should be able to get the thermostatic type fan clutch from Summit Racing or most auto parts stores for about $35.  Hayden is the most common brand.  Hayden's website is fairly good and it gives all the critical dimensions of the fan clutches.  For mine, Hayden listed several and I had to pick the correct thermal fan clutch based on dimensions to position the fan correctly.

Good luck finding a used big block fan for a cheap price.  If you're curious, call Perogie Enterprises, they probably have used big block fans.