Need Alignment Specs.

[prayers1 153]

I have been away from this site for a few months due to a loss in the family that was hard to deal with. I'd like to focus back on the Mustang and get it ready for the street.

I need alignment specs but there are sooooooo many opinions on which specs to use. I thought If I give my particular vehicle info that maybe someone can direct me on what to use.

I have a 1969 Fastback with a 408 Cleveland with aluminum heads and an AOD trans.

The entire suspension is completely rebuilt.

I cut 1/2 a coil off new coil springs.

Have the Manual linkage with the Borgensen POWER steering.

Welded in shock tower reinforcement

Have the Export brace & Monte Carlo bar.

7/8ths sway bar.

Did the Shelby drop.

1970 front disc & rotors with pwr brakes.

Street/Comp Cross member

215/65R BFG Radial tires

 

OPENTRACKER has this on their site:

STREET SPECS *

Caster:

+2° to +3.5° Manual Steer

+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer

Camber:
0 to -.5°

Toe:
1/8″ in

STREET PERFORMANCE SPECS *

Caster:
+2.0° to +3.5° Manual Steer

+2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer

Camber:
-.5° to -1.5°

Toe:
1/8″ in

* Caster and camber settings should be the same on both sides for proper handling.

[RPM 1,190]

My thoughts and condolences prayers1. I've been there and feel for you.

You can't go wrong with OTs alignment specs. I too have the Shelby drop, an aluminum top end but with a 351 Windsor and manual steering. I have 3.5° caster, 1° negative camber and 1/16" toe. It rides like it's on rails, straight and smooth at 100 mph. In a straight line you can take your hands of the wheel and it'll continue straight. Braking is straight and predictable. I did try it with 1/16" toe out to improve Ackerman on turn in, but on city streets here with crappy pavement it was too twitchy for me.

[det0326 179]

So sorry for your loss John.  I too have the street spec's you listed on mine and am well pleased with the handling.

I have the CPP power steering setup.

Dave

[prayers1 153]

Thank you.

What is the difference between the Street & Performance?

What would be best on my application.

[det0326 179]

When I finished the rebuild on the suspension on my car it  had about 1* negative camber and I noticed the top of the tire sitting more to the engine bay. 

I drove this way for a while then set it to 0 to 1/2 negative I am no expert by no means but honestly I could not tell any difference.

 

[stangs-R-me 120]

So sorry to hear of your loss John.

Similar set up on my car (Shelby drop, Export Brace, '70 Disc Brakes, 7/8" Sway Bar) but manual steering & 225/70-14 (soon to be 225/60-15) BFG Radial T/A.

Were you not the one who bought the stock P/S system from me ??   Guess I did not remember reading you switched it out to Borgenson ... I'd guess it's got to be much better though !!

Did my suspension over 30 years ago though so I'm looking to upgrade a few things; so I was going to try and find these alignment specs AND the name of the company that does the upgraded upper & lower arms ... OpenTracker ... so thanks so much for posting.

Doug

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Go with the street spec, it will serve you best for your needs, Unless you do a lot of high speed cornering when you drive.

[stangs-R-me 120]

3 hours ago, Mach1Rider said:

Go with the street spec, it will serve you best for your needs, Unless you do a lot of high speed cornering when you drive.

I'm assuming you are replying to the OP, but that is my plan.

Last time I had the car aligned would have been mid-late 80's and there were lots of shops that had the right equipment and knew how to properly align these cars.   Have not yet talked to the shop where I usually go now when I need work done that I can't (or don't want to) do myself on my late model cars, so I don't know if they still do alignment work on old cars or not.   Figured I wanted to have this info to share with them (or where ever else I end up, if they can't) when I do.

Thanks,

Doug

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Both the Op and you.  Yes finding a good shop that knows about shims and proper adjusting of these cars is tough.