Kaspar 21 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 I'm curious to hear what you guys have done to steal proof your cars? Batteri in the trunk, Alarm, cut off fuel line, or what are the options/ideas? thanks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 We had a thread on here a few months ago- it took me forever to find it again: Disconnect Switch used for Anti Theft Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/56686-disconnect-switch-used-for-anti-theft/&tab=comments#comment-196023 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 BTW, as a result of Cruzzar's post in that thread I bought a key locking hood release for a 73-79 Ford truck or Bronco. It works perfectly and will slow the crooks down, making it difficult to get to your fuel and ignition cutoffs. The advantage of using a Ford part is that it looks like it was made for the car, instead of some aftermarket add-on. Thanks Cruzzar! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 Perhaps not the easiest.. but I pull the rotor out of the distributor and take it with me... Won't stop a tow truck, but should pretty much everyone else. :) 1 skidmarky reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 2 hours ago, RPM said: http://1969stang.com/forum/index.php?/topic/56686-disconnect-switch-used-for-anti-theft/&tab=comments#comment-196023 read the whole topic and good info, ideas and funny :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 14 minutes ago, TinMan said: Perhaps not the easiest.. but I pull the rotor out of the distributor and take it with me... Won't stop a tow truck, but should pretty much everyone else. :) oh gee whiz why not just use your shrink ray and shrink your car down to pocket size. Problem solved :) LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted August 28, 2017 by the way I take the rotor out too! LOL! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rwcstang 201 Report post Posted August 29, 2017 5 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said: BTW, as a result of Cruzzar's post in that thread I bought a key locking hood release for a 73-79 Ford truck or Bronco. It works perfectly and will slow the crooks down, making it difficult to get to your fuel and ignition cutoffs. The advantage of using a Ford part is that it looks like it was made for the car, instead of some aftermarket add-on. Thanks Cruzzar! hahah you know I thought of this as well, did you have to modify the latch or hood?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted August 29, 2017 I liked Mach1Driver's coil cutoff switch idea. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 29, 2017 5 hours ago, rwcstang said: hahah you know I thought of this as well, did you have to modify the latch or hood?? It bolts in place of the stock latch. It can be used as is, but the handle to release the secondary safety catch (once the hood is popped) is in an awkward position on my car, so I intend to add a bracket to make it easier to reach. The cable is a good length and looks like there will be no problem positioning the release handle under the dash. I test fit the latch with the keyed release handle outside the grill so I could pop the mechanism and all works well. I have oxalic acid on order so I can remove the surface rust and then intend to coat it with rattle can Eastwood zinc phosphate paint and get it in the car permanently. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kaspar 21 Report post Posted August 29, 2017 11 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said: It bolts in place of the stock latch. It can be used as is, but the handle to release the secondary safety catch (once the hood is popped) is in an awkward position on my car, so I intend to add a bracket to make it easier to reach. The cable is a good length and looks like there will be no problem positioning the release handle under the dash. I test fit the latch with the keyed release handle outside the grill so I could pop the mechanism and all works well. I have oxalic acid on order so I can remove the surface rust and then intend to coat it with rattle can Eastwood zinc phosphate paint and get it in the car permanently. Interesting. Am interested in seeing photos of this solution, when you've installed it :-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
skidmarky 50 Report post Posted August 30, 2017 On 8/28/2017 at 7:17 PM, TinMan said: Perhaps not the easiest.. but I pull the rotor out of the distributor and take it with me... Won't stop a tow truck, but should pretty much everyone else. :) I do this also...and have hopped in the car and tried to start it a few times without putting it back in. Crank a few times and then mutter "dumba$$".... 1 1 RPM and roxieyi18 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 If you have a tac car, and it's not modified from the standard 2-wire config, you can cut one of the 2 wires and insert a hidden kill switch. It will also defeat someone that tries to hot wire the car too. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
copb8 97 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 On 8/28/2017 at 5:26 PM, Mach1 Driver said: BTW, as a result of Cruzzar's post in that thread I bought a key locking hood release for a 73-79 Ford truck or Bronco. It works perfectly and will slow the crooks down, making it difficult to get to your fuel and ignition cutoffs. The advantage of using a Ford part is that it looks like it was made for the car, instead of some aftermarket add-on. Thanks Cruzzar! Where did you go to find the latch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 1 hour ago, copb8 said: Where did you go to find the latch? Ebay; Google something like 73-79 Ford truck Bronco locking hood latch. I was able to get one in good shape with the firewall grommet and a key lock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_Mac 48 Report post Posted August 31, 2017 I have lojack. I could take the ignition box to distributor wire off, its extra long and would be a problem. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangs-R-me 120 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 On 8/30/2017 at 10:23 PM, Raven R code said: If you have a tac car, and it's not modified from the standard 2-wire config, you can cut one of the 2 wires and insert a hidden kill switch. It will also defeat someone that tries to hot wire the car too. Before I converted my car over to a factory Tach dash, I had a hidden switch tied into the ignition switch of the original non-tach dash harness. If you tried to start the car with the switch ON you would blow a fuse (that was hidden elsewhere), you would then have to find & replace that fuse and turn the switch off before you could start the car. Pretty sure the switch connected the start circuit to ground and the fuse was in the line going to the starter relay. Don't think anyone ever tried to steal my car, but I certainly went though a lot of fuses as I forgot to turn the switch off myself quite often !! Did not want to butcher a perfect Tach harness (unlike my original harness that had previous repair work done), so I did not swap the switch / fuse set up over when I converted. This was back in the mid-80's and I'm pretty sure I got this idea from a magazine article and had a copy of it, but had no luck finding it in my old papers. Doug 1 1 Raven R code and roxieyi18 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
