Wideband sensor and gauge

[ashleesmach1 28]

Anyone have one of these on your car and how do you like it? I'm think of getting one. They are a little on the pricey side but they seem to provide very good info on the the state of a car's A/R. What brand do you have? Did you know that Holley Performance sells a no weld bung kit? 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Never used one myself.  I have read several posts here and usually the complaint is the gauge is all over the place on carbureted engines.

On a carbureted car, I would tune it by how it performs and looking at the spark plugs.  Keep in mind, if you have an MSD ignition system, the spark plugs tend to burn cleaner.

[danno 128]

What is this?

[1969_Mach1 333]

I think he is referring to a wide band O2 sensor and gauge.  Am I wrong?  Some people use them to help tune their motor.  I'm too old school to understand why.

[ashleesmach1 28]

5 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I think he is referring to a wide band O2 sensor and gauge.  Am I wrong?  Some people use them to help tune their motor.  I'm too old school to understand why.

yes I am referring to Wide band O2 sensor and gauge

[MN69Grande 203]

I had a bung installed when I had the new exhaust put in and bought this kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110 .  I love it.  Can't say enough good things about it.  I thought the car was tuned well prior except for a little stumble off the line and flat acceleration right before the secondaries opened.  But the plugs were the perfect color.  If I changed the jets one way the plugs showed lean when I changed them the other they showed rich.  So all is good right?  Nope.  Once I put the gauge in I found the car idled rich, went really rich off the line, cruised at a good A/F Ratio and leaned out in the middle of the acceleration curve.  Since you don't just idle and floor it off the line the plugs never fouled.  And since you don't drive a car at full acceleration all the time I didn't burn the plugs either.  Now with the gauge I can see what was happening in real time.

Now that said - it took some trial and error to get the right tune (same as any other method with a carb).  The culprit was an incorrect power valve that opened too soon.  So I had too small of jets installed because the PV was letting fuel in just off idle.  And I also have to admit that had I used a Vacuum gauge to determine the correct sized PV in the first place (a step many online guides skip) I would have been OK without the A/F Ratio Gauge (or wide.band O2 Gauge if you prefer).  But it is really nice to see the conditions as I drive, gives me a little piece of mind. 

Also if you ever want to go Throttle Body Fuel injection you need one anyway.  Just make sure you get the Bosch sensor.

Yes 1969_Mach1 they do bounce around a bit but if it is too wild either you have a huge cam and are idling or something is not so great in your tune.  When cruising they become pretty consistent. Mine generally stays in the 12.5 - 14.6 range but has but does dip if I go from wide open throttle to coasting into the 11s.  But I think that is because you dumped a lot of fuel into the manifold that engine takes a minute to burn off with such abrupt throttle changes.

There are worse ways to spend $175.

[ashleesmach1 28]

5 hours ago, MN69Grande said:

I had a bung installed when I had the new exhaust put in and bought this kit https://www.summitracing.com/parts/avm-30-4110 .  I love it.  Can't say enough good things about it.  I thought the car was tuned well prior except for a little stumble off the line and flat acceleration right before the secondaries opened.  But the plugs were the perfect color.  If I changed the jets one way the plugs showed lean when I changed them the other they showed rich.  So all is good right?  Nope.  Once I put the gauge in I found the car idled rich, went really rich off the line, cruised at a good A/F Ratio and leaned out in the middle of the acceleration curve.  Since you don't just idle and floor it off the line the plugs never fouled.  And since you don't drive a car at full acceleration all the time I didn't burn the plugs either.  Now with the gauge I can see what was happening in real time.

Now that said - it took some trial and error to get the right tune (same as any other method with a carb).  The culprit was an incorrect power valve that opened too soon.  So I had too small of jets installed because the PV was letting fuel in just off idle.  And I also have to admit that had I used a Vacuum gauge to determine the correct sized PV in the first place (a step many online guides skip) I would have been OK without the A/F Ratio Gauge (or wide.band O2 Gauge if you prefer).  But it is really nice to see the conditions as I drive, gives me a little piece of mind. 

Also if you ever want to go Throttle Body Fuel injection you need one anyway.  Just make sure you get the Bosch sensor.

Yes 1969_Mach1 they do bounce around a bit but if it is too wild either you have a huge cam and are idling or something is not so great in your tune.  When cruising they become pretty consistent. Mine generally stays in the 12.5 - 14.6 range but has but does dip if I go from wide open throttle to coasting into the 11s.  But I think that is because you dumped a lot of fuel into the manifold that engine takes a minute to burn off with such abrupt throttle changes.

There are worse ways to spend $175.

Outstanding! This is what I was after thanks!

[ashleesmach1 28]

If a car has dual exhaust does one run 1 sensor and gauge or 2? Where do you install sensor if it you only need 1? Where do you install the sensors if you need 2?

[1969vert 55]

Place it 24" from the exhaust ports...don't forget it can fail...get the carb adjusted and enjoy the show... exhaust leaks will give a false reading..bad sensors will too..they are neet and cool but read your plugs also.. write the number of the sensor down...so you can order another one cheaper than the manufacturer...took me a while to tune mine but it was 1/4 mile at a time and a plug killer...bad plugs will misfire and throw it off also..have fun..

[1969vert 55]

One will do unless you want to tune both sides of the motor...

[MN69Grande 203]

Agreed.  I have dual exhaust and only have 1 sensor.  Some EFI systems like to have 2 or if you have any kind of computer for tracking performance, but for day to day use 1 is sufficient IMHO.  Also try not to place the sensor where condensation might pool.  This can kill your sensor too.

[ashleesmach1 28]

3 hours ago, MN69Grande said:

Agreed.  I have dual exhaust and only have 1 sensor.  Some EFI systems like to have 2 or if you have any kind of computer for tracking performance, but for day to day use 1 is sufficient IMHO.  Also try not to place the sensor where condensation might pool.  This can kill your sensor too.

What do you think about this one? http://www.wide-band.com/product-p/apsx_d2n.htm

The price is pretty good.

[MN69Grande 203]

15 hours ago, ashleesmach1 said:

What do you think about this one? http://www.wide-band.com/product-p/apsx_d2n.htm

The price is pretty good.

I don't know anything about the gauge brand but the sensor is the Bosch so probably ok.

[ashleesmach1 28]

On 8/18/2017 at 10:04 AM, MN69Grande said:

I don't know anything about the gauge brand but the sensor is the Bosch so probably ok.

I think I'll ask for this on my birthday. :)

[ashleesmach1 28]

On 8/17/2017 at 6:18 PM, ashleesmach1 said:

What do you think about this one? http://www.wide-band.com/product-p/apsx_d2n.htm

The price is pretty good.

I emailed the tech for this. I ask him if I needed to install one or two wide band sensors for dual exhaust and the "DUMB AS A BOX of Rocks" IDIOT "Did Not KNOW!" Any recommendation for a good reputable source for this upgrade? :(

[stangnet33 88]

You will need a gauge that is capable of reading/displaying dual readings as each sensor will never have identical readings. Did a quick search and found this for you :  http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/dlg1.php . I still don't believe that these are well suited for carbureted applications.    

[Alan_Mac 48]

I have a hand held innovate unit that I use for tuning.  It records your trip and then you can view the AFR and RPM graphs on your pc.  It works really well.  You have to smooth out the AFR curve for a better visual accuracy.  The program allows you to make RPM vs AFR charts.  I use the average at each 1000 RPM because the AFR raw data has allot of noise. I think its a great tool for tuning even with a carb.  I don't think a individual AFR gauge mounted in the car would be very valuable.