A/C Compressor Fitment

[Bob & Sue 110]

I have a 69 with factory air when I purchased it last year I had the heater box rebuilt with new heater coil & the a/c coil was checked and pressure tested. 

I need everything under the hood 2 of the mounting brackets were cracked & the compressor is junk (r10). I've found all the mounting brackets for it on C/L. I was looking at getting the Sanden conversion kit. 

I've found a 2004 Mustang 3.8l NOS setup complete. I know I'll need to build a new mounting plate, machine a billet aluminum pulley & correct lines made. Has anyone done this type of swap? It will be about 1/4 the cost of a new Sanden kit.

Any ideas on other problems I may run into.


 

[1969_Mach1 333]

Mine is also a factory A/C car but I didn't reinstall the under hood components during the reassembly of the car.  I have them saved in a plastic bin.  As far as yours, I'll I can suggest is get a condenser for R134A, they are more efficient.  Also, too late now, but when you had the heater/AC box disassembled a new evaporator coil that is also R134A compatible would have be a good upgrade.  For the same reason, they are more efficient.  R134A operates at higher operating pressures and does not transfer heat as well as R12.  Thus, one of the reasons why R134A condenser and evaporator coils are designed to be more efficient.  So when converting an older R12 system to R134A, it will cool okay, but not as good if using the older R12 only evaporator and condenser coils.

Having hoses made might be difficult.  At least in my area there is nobody that makes AC hoses.  Then you will be forced to make them yourself using the special AC line hose clamps and fittings.  That use to be the norm for a hose repair when replacement lines were expensive and not readily available.  I've repaired many lines using that method when I use to work as a mechanic and I can honestly tell you they rarely ever seal. 

Lastly, R134A molecules are much smaller than R12 and leaks with R12 designed hose connections are more common.  If that happens, I wouldn't hesitate to put a little sealer in the system when it is being charged.

If you have the skills and equipment to make parts to adapt that compressor from the 2004 Mustang, you can try it before buying any other parts.  I think in the end you'll realize the savings were not that great.  And you will have installed a used compressor that might send metal shavings throughout your new system or need a new clutch or be leaking through the front shaft seal.  Myself, I would buy a kit with all the parts ready to install or do without.

[bigmal 225]

Hi Bob and Sue,

I had to replace my compressor last year. I used an R134 compressor from CJ Pony parts and found the price quite reasonable. I had to order the separate mountng plate as well.

As usual shipping is a bit costly but I was in the US and had it shipped to my hotel. Certainly added to my checked baggage weight.

I had new hoses made up and the system gassed by a mobile aircond guy. He was very good but cost about $500. I still have the rest of the componants unchanged (R12). The system is still good but definately not as cold as a modern system.

[Bob & Sue 110]

Thanks for the replies, the unit is new from a Ford dealer they had ordered it for a warranty replacement it includes compressor, condenser, evaporator, tubes/lines and hardware with instructions. My neighbor owns a large HVAC company he'd be making the hoses & charging the system if I buy it. I'd machine a billet pulley and make the adapter plate. 

The more I think about I'd rather just buy an aftermarket kit. I can't make up my mind.

 

[unilec 57]

 I think the one in bigmal's photo is this one, not cheap here, so I have made my own from a piece of 1/4" plate.

http://speedyairspares.com.au/products/Ford_289_302_351_Windsor_V8_Air_Conditioning_Bracket_to_suit_Sanden_SD7H15_SD5H14_Compressor-32-9.html

[Ash 145]

Not sure if you US guys have this product available, it's something relatively new here in Aus. Last weekend I used it to redo the A/C in my VW Amarok. Unlike you guys over the pond, we can not buy R134A unless you are a licensed A/C installer. But this HyChill Minus 30 product is available over the counter to anyone.

https://hychill.com.au/products/minus-30

I purchased a 4.5kg bottle for $220 plus an $80 deposit on the bottle. I have a few cars to gas so thought if I bought this quantity, it'll kill it.

I had been told that you do not need as much of HyChill compared to R134A and my mate who was an industrial A/C installer in a previous job, he had his doubts. But we swapped out all of the parts on my car and got to the re-gas moment, my car needed 525g plus or minus 25gm of R134A, he put in 250g and was happy with it's output. I was happy as my system had failed due to over-pressurising. A design fault I believe for our Aussie conditions as A/C failure in Amaroks here is quite common. So having less quantity in the system is a reduction in the chance for this occurring again.

Time will be the test, especially when it gets to 50°C and above. But I have heaps to wiggle room still to add more if needed.

I hadn't thought that I'd use such a little amount too. 4.5kg really is overkill for what I need. It's going to take a long time to use it all and to get my $80 deposit back. But it's still way cheaper than R134A.

This isn't exactly the answer you are chasing but something I thought may be of interest. R134A is no longer the only option. Plus, HyChill Minus 30 is not as dangerous, especially to the environment, as R134A.

[1969_Mach1 333]

18 hours ago, Bob & Sue said:

Thanks for the replies, the unit is new from a Ford dealer they had ordered it for a warranty replacement it includes compressor, condenser, evaporator, tubes/lines and hardware with instructions. My neighbor owns a large HVAC company he'd be making the hoses & charging the system if I buy it. I'd machine a billet pulley and make the adapter plate. 

The more I think about I'd rather just buy an aftermarket kit. I can't make up my mind.

 

If I understand the idea billet aluminum pulley, I think the clutch hub will destroy the front face of the aluminum pulley in a short amount if time when it engages.  I think I would seriously consider your other thought of buying a kit.  Install it and have your neighbor evacuate and charge it.

Make certain the system is evacuated for 30 minutes (minimum 20 minutes) prior to charging it.  During the evacuation, the gauges should read close to 30" of vacuum, usually about 29.5" or so.  This will remove any moisture that got into the system while it was opened.  Some A/C people want to skip that step to save some time.  If it is not evacuated it will not cool quite as well.  Plus even though there is a desiccant bag inside the accumulator to absorb moisture, it can still cause some corrosion internally.

FYI:  From college physics, 30" of vacuum is an ideal vacuum, absolutely no air molecules exist, and has never been achieved in real life.  So any vacuum gauge the reads 30" or higher vacuum is simply not correct.

[Bob & Sue 110]

48 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

If I understand the idea billet aluminum pulley, I think the clutch hub will destroy the front face of the aluminum pulley in a short amount if time when it engages.  I think I would seriously consider your other thought of buying a kit.  Install it and have your neighbor evacuate and charge it.

Make certain it is evacuated the system for 30 minutes (minimum 20 minutes) prior to charging it.  During the evacuation, the gauges should read close to 30" of vacuum, usually about 29.5" or so.  This will remove any moisture that got into the system while it was opened.  Some A/C people want to skip that step to save some time.  If it is not evacuated it will not cool quite as well.  Plus even though there is a desiccant bag inside the accumulator to absorb moisture, it can still cause some corrosion internally.

FYI:  From college physics, 30" of vacuum is an ideal vacuum, absolutely no air molecules exist, and has never been achieved in real life.  So any vacuum gauge the reads 30" or higher vacuum is simply not correct.

48 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I messed up 

yep I'm going with the Sanden kit trying to save a few bucks always bites ya later.

Interesting about vacuum, I worked on an experimental enclave large enough to hold the carbon fiber wing structure section of the B2 bomber at the Boeing Dev Center. I don't recall what the requirements were for Vacuum but I do remember it had to held at +/- .200" through the whole process.

Found some pics online of it I worked on it in 1988 programming the CNC tape layer. The 1st one was to large to fit inside the building it sat right on Marginal Way by the Flight Museum it took several years to get a clearance deviation from security to have it in public view, they could only load & unload at night with everything tarped  to hide it from cameras.

https://www.google.com/search?q=boeing+developmental+center+enclave&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS742US742&tbm=isch&imgil=HOlSE1ygxwTUXM%3A%3B46-nwHb1ePpLYM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.seattletimes.com%252Fbusiness%252Fnew-boeing-plan-expand-work-here%252F&source=iu&pf=m&fir=HOlSE1ygxwTUXM%3A%2C46-nwHb1ePpLYM%2C_&usg=__iNGJ8Z1ALU8_Rf7Z_u7PSZnopwY%3D&biw=1242&bih=580&ved=0ahUKEwiqtK34oc3VAhUI6GMKHeGUAEMQyjcISA&ei=vqGMWardN4jQjwPhqYKYBA#imgrc=HOlSE1ygxwTUXM:

Thanks for your detailed posts

Bob

[Rsanter 152]

I think the conversion would not be as hard as you think.

the way I would approach it is that I would get a replacement lower pull for your engine that is for non-AC application.

i would hit the junk yards to find a lower pully that is for serpentine.

i would then machine a hub that goes into your Vbelt pully and bolts to the damper. Then I would bolt the serpentine pully to that hub so you are basically making a lower pully that has 2 Vbelt grooves and a serpentine .

if you have a 4 bolt damper and you get lucky at the junk yard, ford actually had a stock pully like that. It was used in the years right before they went fully serpentine. I have one just in case I need it

 

I may have to look at using one of those compressors. I like how it bolts on.

i want to install the compressor on the lower pass side right under the alternator to keep the look of the engine cleaner up top

bob