Need help with my Kick Down

[bigmal 225]

Hi guys,

In the process of putting my car back together and discovered a problem with the kickdown rod. I am running a 351 Cleveland, 650 Holley with an FMX. The rod has been significanty bent by the previous owner. I have know idea what it is supposed to look like but it doesn't look good.

The issue is that with the rod connected I can only get 1/2 throttle. I don't beleive I have changed anything when putting it back together so assume it has always been a problem. Never was a real power house but I thight I was getting full throttle before. Maybe not.

First photo is in idle position

Second shows the amount of rod movement

Third photo is full throttle and max rod movement.

What are my options with replacing or repairing it?

 

[barnett468 418]

try to bend it so it is just at its full stop when the throttle is wide open. it also can not stop against the intake manifold as this may keep the rod from returning all the way.

 

[bigmal 225]

Thanks Barnett, I just went and tried that. Still no good. I think I might need to do some bending further along as it hits the firewall.

[unilec 57]

You may need to have an elongated slot, so the accelerator linkage only comes in contact with the rod towards the end of its travel to operate the rod, my vette is like that.

[bigmal 225]

31 minutes ago, unilec said:

You may need to have an elongated slot, so the accelerator linkage only comes in contact with the rod towards the end of its travel to operate the rod, my vette is like that.

Thanks for that. I think that will do the trick. I need to get a new rod. My one is so bent it looks like it will fold up.

[3pedal 95]

I switched to a Lokar cable set up...excellent

[Bob & Sue 110]

I'd say you need to find a new or used kick down rod, yours may not even be the right one for a Mustang from the looks of the bend by the firewall.

Here's my setup I just took these only difference is the Dominator manifold.

 

[Bob & Sue 110]

Just noticed in your 1st pic compare to mine it looks like you have the wrong kick down assembly on the carb, look at Holley's site I think you need a Ford Kick Down Kit like this one.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/holly-carburetor-kick-down-linkage-adapter/p/AKLA/?year=1969&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5tSx14XD1QIVB1p-Ch0SoAWiEAQYASABEgI9-_D_BwE

[bigmal 225]

4 hours ago, Bob & Sue said:

Just noticed in your 1st pic compare to mine it looks like you have the wrong kick down assembly on the carb, look at Holley's site I think you need a Ford Kick Down Kit like this one.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/holly-carburetor-kick-down-linkage-adapter/p/AKLA/?year=1969&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5tSx14XD1QIVB1p-Ch0SoAWiEAQYASABEgI9-_D_BwE

Thanks for that. I will see if I can get a new kickdown rod and order the new carb assembly from CJ. Just considering whether to go down the Lokar path. Gets a bit pricey with USD ans shipping.

[MAC390 327]

I am using the Lokar unit as well 

[Shep69 149]

15 hours ago, bigmal said:

Thanks for that. I will see if I can get a new kickdown rod and order the new carb assembly from CJ. Just considering whether to go down the Lokar path. Gets a bit pricey with USD ans shipping.

Bigmal 

Summit have a universal kick down cable for about $30. Its made by lokar . Summit Part # SUM-200034. Thats what I plan to use. Im also sick of the rod set up. Approx $35 shipping cost to Australia. 

 

[bigmal 225]

8 hours ago, Shep69 said:

Bigmal 

Summit have a universal kick down cable for about $30. Its made by lokar . Summit Part # SUM-200034. Thats what I plan to use. Im also sick of the rod set up. Approx $35 shipping cost to Australia. 

 

Thanks for that I will have a look.

[bigmal 225]

Looking at the Summit and Lokar cables they supply them for a C4 or C6 but don't list for an FMX. Does anyone know if a C4 cable will fit an FMX. I have no idea what the difference between the two is.

[1969_Mach1 333]

On ‎8‎/‎5‎/‎2017 at 10:16 PM, bigmal said:

Hi guys,

In the process of putting my car back together and discovered a problem with the kickdown rod. I am running a 351 Cleveland, 650 Holley with an FMX. The rod has been significanty bent by the previous owner. I have know idea what it is supposed to look like but it doesn't look good.

The issue is that with the rod connected I can only get 1/2 throttle. I don't beleive I have changed anything when putting it back together so assume it has always been a problem. Never was a real power house but I thight I was getting full throttle before. Maybe not.

First photo is in idle position

Second shows the amount of rod movement

Third photo is full throttle and max rod movement.

What are my options with replacing or repairing it?

 

I've encountered this situation twice.  Very common with a combination of a Holley carb and aftermarket intake manifold.  Both times I made an extension from a small piece of flat bar to fit between the carb and kick down rod.  You will need to attach it to the kick down rod with two bolts so it cannot rotate where it is attached to the kick down rod.

On a side note, I don't know the list number of your carb, but it looks suspiciously like a 600 CFM carb and not a 650 CFM carb. 

[Bob & Sue 110]

16 hours ago, bigmal said:

Looking at the Summit and Lokar cables they supply them for a C4 or C6 but don't list for an FMX. Does anyone know if a C4 cable will fit an FMX. I have no idea what the difference between the two is.

Summit has 5 Lokar FMX cables.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/lokar/part-type/automatic-transmission-kickdown-cables/transmission-type/fmx/cable-jacket-material/braided-stainless-steel

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/KDP-2FMXHT/10002/-1

[bigmal 225]

1 hour ago, Bob & Sue said:

Summit has 5 Lokar FMX cables.

https://www.summitracing.com/search/brand/lokar/part-type/automatic-transmission-kickdown-cables/transmission-type/fmx/cable-jacket-material/braided-stainless-steel

http://www.jegs.com/i/Lokar/625/KDP-2FMXHT/10002/-1

Thanks for that. I must have done a crappy search. Ordering one now.

[bigmal 225]

3 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

I've encountered this situation twice.  Very common with a combination of a Holley carb and aftermarket intake manifold.  Both times I made an extension from a small piece of flat bar to fit between the carb and kick down rod.  You will need to attach it to the kick down rod with two bolts so it cannot rotate where it is attached to the kick down rod.

On a side note, I don't know the list number of your carb, but it looks suspiciously like a 600 CFM carb and not a 650 CFM carb. 

Thanks for that. Not quite sure what you are describing with the flat bar but have ordered a Lokar cable. Seems a good way to go.

As far as the carby goes, I used the number on the body and asked on the forum in another post and was told it was a 650. I know very little about Holleys. I always thiught the car was underpowered but I'm starting to think I've never had full throttle. Can't wait to get it back on the road in the next few weeks.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Sorry, after looking closely at the pictures, I noticed your kick down rod looks bent, and the adjustment screw, captured nut and return spring for the kick down lever on the carb is missing.  Those parts come with a new carb.  There should also be instructions.  You can also buy them separately from Holley or Summit Racing or Jegs.

1)  At idle with the rod connected to the lever on the carb, that lever should NOT be in a fully forward position.

2)  If the adjustment screw and other missing parts were installed on the carb, and your rod not bent, initially you turn the adjustment screw so that when at wide open throttle the kick down rod is in its fully rearward position.  Fine tune after driving but make certain you can always get full throttle.  After that is done, you will notice, at idle the rod and lever on the carb will NOT be fully forward.  You typically have to be at roughly 1/2 throttle before the throttle lever contacts the missing adjustment screw on the kick down lever and starts to move the kick down rod.

You can go the Lokar route.  But you are simply missing a few adjustment parts on the carb and your kick down rod looks bent.

Look at Bob and Sue's photos.  Theirs is set up correctly.  The missing kick down lever adjustment screw and captured nut goes in the hole at the very top of the kick down lever on the carb.  The green lever on the carb contacts that screw when opening the throttle.  Simple arrangement.

http://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1970-ford-mustang-351c-4v-fmx

 

[bigmal 225]

8 minutes ago, 1969_Mach1 said:

Sorry, after looking closely at the pictures, I noticed your kick down rod looks bent, and the adjustment screw, captured nut and return spring for the kick down lever on the carb is missing.  Those parts come with a new carb.  There should also be instructions.  You can also buy them separately from Holley or Summit Racing or Jegs.

1)  At idle with the rod connected to the lever on the carb, that lever should NOT be in a fully forward position.

2)  If the adjustment screw and other missing parts were installed on the carb, and your rod not bent, initially you turn the adjustment screw so that when at wide open throttle the kick down rod is in its fully rearward position.  Fine tune after driving but make certain you can always get full throttle.  After that is done, you will notice, at idle the rod and lever on the carb will NOT be fully forward.  You typically have to be at roughly 1/2 throttle before the throttle lever contacts the missing adjustment screw on the kick down lever and starts to move the kick down rod.

You can go the Lokar route.  But you are simple missing a few adjustment parts on the carb and your kick down rod looks bent.

Look at Bob and Sue's photos.  Theirs is set up correctly.  The missing kick down lever adjustment screw and captured nut goes in the hole at the very top of the kick down lever on the carb.  The green lever on the carb contacts that screw when opening the throttle.  Simple arrangement.

http://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1970-ford-mustang-351c-4v-fmx

 

Thanks for that. I wish I had this link before I ordered the Lokar cable as I would have prefered to keep a rod. Because of the time to ship from the US I wanted to get it ordered strait away. Bugger. I still may go down this path in the future if I'm not happy with the cable.

[Shep69 149]

6 hours ago, bigmal said:

Thanks for that. I wish I had this link before I ordered the Lokar cable as I would have prefered to keep a rod. Because of the time to ship from the US I wanted to get it ordered strait away. Bugger. I still may go down this path in the future if I'm not happy with the cable.

Let me know how the lokar cable goes Big Mal. If you don't like it I have a rod that im going to take off my 351w FMX if that suits.

[bigmal 225]

2 minutes ago, Shep69 said:

Let me know how the lokar cable goes Big Mal. If you don't like it I have a rod that im going to take off my 351w FMX if that suits.

Thanks for that. Very appreciated.

[ashleesmach1 28]

I'm interested in the Lokar kit but for the life of me I cant make heads or tails on how it installs or how it works! help please! Signe

Confused 

[Shep69 149]

This should help

[Shep69 149]

http://www.lokar.com/downloads/pdf-instructions/INS0035-FordFMXkickdownKit.pdf

[ashleesmach1 28]

thanks! So according to Lokar web site I have to replace the original throttle cable too. Is that right? Is it hard to do? do yall have any pics of your install? Thanks again. Do I really have to replace the original throttle cable?  Kinda looks like with the SRK-4000 bracket I can keep the original throttle cable in place. but I may be mistaken.