Wiring electric choke and pertronix coil bypass

[TexasEd 211]

I think I've asked these questions before but it was a long time ago and I can't find it.  When I took my car apart there was some strange wiring splices in my harnesses for the electric choke. I replaced the gauge harness that connects to the oil pressure, temperature, and coil.  There are no splices in it now.

1. Where do I connect my carb's electric choke so that it only gets power in the key's run position?

After I get the car running with points and the stock coil I will replace them with a pertronix distributor and flamethrower coil.  I know I need to bypass the pink resistor wire in the ignition.  I've heard of some people using a relay that is activated by the pink wire to pass 12V to the coil.  

2. What is the best way to connect the flamethrower coil to 12V? 

 

Thanks

[Midlife 840]

Try using the S (stator) lug on the alternator: it's only hot when the alternator is turning.  For the flamethrower, use the coil lead as the relay trigger, or find the green/red wire that goes to the voltage regulator and use that for the coil.  You can use that same wire for the electric choke.  It's only hot when the key is in RUN position.

[TexasEd 211]

Thanks for the reply Midlife.  I was just telling my friend about your rebuild service the other day.

I need some clarification.  

Run a wire from the Stator lug to the choke, right?  That is simple.

For the coil you said two options:

a) Use a relay triggered off the existing coil lead or

b) use the red/green wire from the voltage regulator.  On my harness this is a stubbed out socket type connection.  

To complicate this even more I have the 1969 colorized wiring diagram and the colors don't match my harness.

 Thanks.

[TexasEd 211]

Also, when I took out my old harness this is what it looked like with a resistor in the coil line.  Diagram too.

Was this to replace or augment the pink resistor wire?  Why would this be modified like this? Was it to put the resistor after the choke?

[Midlife 840]

There never was a resistor wire in a Ford engine gauge feed harness.  Your harness does not look stock to me.

[Max Power 74]

On 7/23/2017 at 6:40 PM, Midlife said:

Try using the S (stator) lug on the alternator: it's only hot when the alternator is turning.  For the flamethrower, use the coil lead as the relay trigger, or find the green/red wire that goes to the voltage regulator and use that for the coil.  You can use that same wire for the electric choke.  It's only hot when the key is in RUN position.

Does the stator lug provide a full 12v?

I heard when Ford switched to electric chokes in the seventies, the Autolite carbs choke element required less volts than 12v, and people putting Holleys on in those applications were getting jammed up because they though the factory lead would work. The Holley requires 12v, and the factory lead was supplying less. Thoughts?

[TexasEd 211]

17 hours ago, Midlife said:

There never was a resistor wire in a Ford engine gauge feed harness.  Your harness does not look stock to me.

It was stock.  It was cut up at some time and the resistor was spliced in.