Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 17, 2017 Does anyone know if there is a durable rattle can paint (with correct sheen) for the shaker scoop and trim ring? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 17, 2017 Motor cycle engine case paint ,has the right sheen and very tough .i think it is called PJ1 ,you can get it at any bike shop .I use it on my Cobra covers Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 Ok....nice find. Satin or semi? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 More of a satin finish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 27, 2017 I know the shaker and trim ring should NOT be as flat as the hood. One mfg's satin might be more semi than others and vice versa. I'm gonna give it a whirl. Thanks Ridge! 1 Ridge Runner reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigmal 225 Report post Posted July 28, 2017 What are your thoughts on polishing the tops of the fins on the shaker? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 29, 2017 2 hours ago, bigmal said: What are your thoughts on polishing the tops of the fins on the shaker? the fins were painted. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCB-69CJ 11 Report post Posted July 29, 2017 The top of the fins are not painted. After painting I cleaned the tops off with some solvent and there was no need to polish. 1 bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted July 29, 2017 2 hours ago, JCB-69CJ said: The top of the fins are not painted. After painting I cleaned the tops off with some solvent and there was no need to polish. http://mustangsandmore.com/pages/Boss_and_Mach_Info.html " The ribs on a shaker scoop are painted argent. Some folks paint the shaker semi-gloss black then sand the ribs clean, but that's not accepted by MCA judging if that's a concern. " https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=4839.0 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=938.0 http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=55230.0 1 bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 29, 2017 This is PJ1 ,it actially comes in several different colors ,black looks like it comes in gloss ,satin and flat .I always used the satin finish ,this stuff is tough . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted July 29, 2017 8 hours ago, JCB-69CJ said: The top of the fins are not painted. After painting I cleaned the tops off with some solvent and there was no need to polish. 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 On 7/17/2017 at 9:03 AM, Ridge Runner said: Motor cycle engine case paint ,has the right sheen and very tough .i think it is called PJ1 ,you can get it at any bike shop .I use it on my Cobra covers Now you tell me :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 That is why they make sand paper 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCB-69CJ 11 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 19 hours ago, BuckeyeDemon said: http://mustangsandmore.com/pages/Boss_and_Mach_Info.html " The ribs on a shaker scoop are painted argent. Some folks paint the shaker semi-gloss black then sand the ribs clean, but that's not accepted by MCA judging if that's a concern. " https://www.428cobrajet.org/forum/index.php?topic=4839.0 http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=938.0 http://www.boss302.com/smf/index.php?topic=55230.0 Thank you, I did not know that. learn more details everyday with these cars. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JCB-69CJ 11 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 13 hours ago, Brian Conway said: Thank you, will pick one of these up. Never ending details with these machines as I try to bring mine back to original. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 Ordered that paint in satin. One more related question.....what adhesive is used on the shaker seal? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 Adhesive? I have not seen or read anywhere that the seal requires adhesive. My fire damaged original came off easily, and the repop stays put without any adhesive. But my way of doing this wouldn't be the first thing I've done wrong. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 8 minutes ago, RPM said: Adhesive? I have not seen or read anywhere that the seal requires adhesive. My fire damaged original came off easily, and the repop stays put without any adhesive. But my way of doing this wouldn't be the first thing I've done wrong. Yeah....my shaker base has an adhesive residue on the "vertical skirt surface" . But maybe I do need to glue the seal back on. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted July 30, 2017 4 hours ago, Raven R code said: Ordered that paint in satin. One more related question.....what adhesive is used on the shaker seal? I used the adhesive variety of ATV. Brian 1 Raven R code reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 I dont remember my old shaker having it glued on Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 My original seal was glued. To use glue or not is, of course, up to you. The shaker seal you chose to use will be a factor. The original and the correct reproductions will need to be glued. The Drake, made by Carpenter, and many of the incorrect reproductions may not require an adhesive. Search ' shaker seal ' for discussions about the seal. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigmal 225 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 On 29/07/2017 at 11:48 PM, JCB-69CJ said: The top of the fins are not painted. After painting I cleaned the tops off with some solvent and there was no need to polish. Before I do any damage, do the Cobra Jet badges pry off or is there a trick to it? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 The cobrajet script badges have adhesive backing. You will most likely just have to glue them back on. Speaking of which....any measurements for correct placement? I assure there is one measurement needed from the front of the scoop. 1 bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Raven R code 281 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 Brian....my shaker had the same type of glue marks along the base. It also appears you have the same style seal as my original.....which is NOT tampered height wise (between the yellow lines I added). I have bought 2 "original Ford tooled" shaker seals and they both have tapered sidewalls along the side indicated by the yellow lines. What gives? The glue marks show the original seal was even all the way around. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bigmal 225 Report post Posted July 31, 2017 On 30/07/2017 at 3:46 AM, Ridge Runner said: This is PJ1 ,it actially comes in several different colors ,black looks like it comes in gloss ,satin and flat .I always used the satin finish ,this stuff is tough . Thanks for that. Iv'e ordered some PJ1. Not available in Australia so shipping was a bit pricey. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
