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Mach1 Driver

A REAL Schematic

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1 hour ago, mackseal said:

Thanks for re-posting this. It will help greatly. Since I have none of the options listed for fuse 2, I guess that will be the best and easiest location to wire the EFT power source to. Is there a method or devise recommended to plug a pig tail directly into the fuse well (instead of tapping into or splicing the wire coming off it)?

Thanks gain for you help.

Mine has an accessory plug that is unused and ready to plug into that is already attached to fuse #2. There is only one wire feeding the plug but it has three outlets- presumably all connected together. Take a look and see the ID of the connector. I tried a Dorman 0.157 male bullet #85434 and it snapped in but didn't feel snug. You may want to try Dorman 0.176 #86457. I know that their 0.187 is too big, but I didn't have the 0.176 to try.

If that doesn't work you can tie directly into the wire, solder and tape it. Whose EFI are you using? Don't forget a rollover switch.

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Thanks.  it is a Holley Sniper kit.  So far it seems fairly plug and play. The only difficult part so far has been confirming a switched 12 volt source (only on when the engine is running) and how to route all the extra wiring required (trying to keep it as stock looking as possible). 

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I edited page 5 again (see post 1 above) to show several ways to connect to the fuse panel. For instance, fuse #2 is on in ("accy" and "on") and good for loads like radios, etc. The bottom of the page shows how to connect for something like an EFI that you only want on in ("start" and "on"). 

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Very good.  Now on a 1970, the empty fuse area is now filled with an input line coming directly from the ignition switch (RUN-only) and the output goes to the dash cluster, the white female large bullet plug beyond the firewall with a greyish green wire, and the 3 prong molex plug near the fuse box.  Many of the 69 and 70 headlight harnesses have a green/red wire with a female bullet coming out of the voltage regulator plug that can be used for RUN-only lines in the engine compartment.

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On 5/6/2018 at 1:44 PM, Mach1 Driver said:

I see many people asking how to connect to switched power for the latest do-hickey they want to add, so I added Page 5 up above in the first post. It shows the fuse panel and the wires associated with it. There are three fuses currently connected to the ignition switch that are switched on in "Accy" and "On". They are 1, 2 and 3. On my Mustang the 20A #2 fuse is totally unused and goes to an accessory plug that is just hanging there waiting to be used.

Page 5 seems to be corrupt or something, it won't open for me. All others open fine.

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1 hour ago, Mach1 Driver said:

I deleted it and reloaded. It works for me, let me know if you can open it please.

That works. Thanks for all of these, lots of good info.

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On 9/18/2017 at 8:30 PM, Midlife said:

Very good, and interesting!  So the line going to the starter side of the solenoid has only two functions: applying 12V when cranking as a prove-out circuit, and when not cranking providing no voltage to the lamp.  Not a great design, as that red wire is not fused.  I suppose one could have tapped into the red/blue starter/NSS line, but that is also unfused.  I was under the impression that the resistor wire performed a timer function for the prove-out circuit: once energized, it would stay on for say 10-15 seconds.  That resistor wire is incredibly delicate and most are broken or have no continuity.  I cannot repair them, unfortunately, and they are not reproduced.

As a final suggestion, it might be nice to place a box around the low fuel relay components itself, which would clarify the innies and the outies to that relay.

So here we are almost three years later and I saw a West Coast Classic Cougar video that shows the fuel sender for a Cougar and he talks a bit about the thermistor. The low fuel light circuit is explained above for you Cougar guys.

 

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