Fordzilla06 11 Report post Posted July 10, 2017 So I have been back and forth on whether or not to delete the shock towers on my '69 fastback. I have finally decided to go ahead and delete them and go with a Mustang II type suspension. Question I have for other who have done is is where did you get all of your fender aprons from. I like the MTF full delete panels but stumbled across this build http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/64-70MustangFrontEndinstrc.pdf With the battery tray delete panel and cannot seem to find the slick front fender apron for the passenger side. I plan on relocating battery to the trunk. Anybody have any ideas, short of manufacturing my own or using the MTF fender aprons? 1 RustyBom reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
JayEstes 172 Report post Posted July 11, 2017 "and go with a Mustang II type suspension" aaaaaaaaaaand, you lost me. best of luck with that, or maybe just don't? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RogerC 136 Report post Posted July 11, 2017 There are several good SLA front suspensions. However, for anything other than street cruising stay clear of Rod And Custom, Heidts and of course stock mustang II setups. Don't know of anyone has a panel without the battery niche. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted July 11, 2017 The "Mustang II" front suspension systems offered by many aftermarket companies like Hiedt's are double A-arm suspensions. They really aren't Mustang II suspension systems... Mustang II suspensions were quite simply a classic Mustang suspension system flipped so that the struts went towards the rear ...and of course they used rack and pinion steering units which were high tech in the 70's. Mustang II suspensions with the rearward facing strut and lower control arm (that looked almost exactly like the 64-73 arm) were well engineered by Ford and quite durable... as to whether or not Heidt's, Rod and Custom, etc meet the same specifications is anybody's guess because they have borrowed little from the original Mustang II design outside of the crossmember and rack and pinion steering. I've owned classic *and* Mustang II's since I was old enough to drive but many people who have never owned a Mustang II don't really know what a Mustang II suspension was because it has been so commercialized. david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted July 11, 2017 The panels shown in the install manual are custom made. i have seen people use the driver panel on the passenger side with some cutting and welding or you can have a panel made for you. I have a bead roller so I could make something, but you may want to find someone closer. what tools do you have accessible to you? also, why do you want to remove the towers? One thing I have done from back in the day was to do the arning drop and then cut the towers out where the original UCA mount holes are. Then you will have to do a little added bracing. Then you add a tube going from the firewall foreword behind the inner panels and curve down to in front of where the tower used to be. then you can convert to coil overs using the stock UCAs or upgrade to tubular bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69Stanger408 82 Report post Posted July 11, 2017 I went with the Total Cost Involved (TCI) system you mentioned from Hart Rods. I actually replaced my battery panel for a new one when I replaced the radiator support...unsure why as the battery is going in the trunk :( I did the Heidts 4 link in the rear. 1 moodster reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordzilla06 11 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 6 hours ago, Rsanter said: The panels shown in the install manual are custom made. i have seen people use the driver panel on the passenger side with some cutting and welding or you can have a panel made for you. I have a bead roller so I could make something, but you may want to find someone closer. what tools do you have accessible to you? also, why do you want to remove the towers? One thing I have done from back in the day was to do the arning drop and then cut the towers out where the original UCA mount holes are. Then you will have to do a little added bracing. Then you add a tube going from the firewall foreword behind the inner panels and curve down to in front of where the tower used to be. then you can convert to coil overs using the stock UCAs or upgrade to tubular bob Main reason for delete is engine compartment space, headers, power brakes, possible big block. I know it can all be done without deleting the shock towers, but why? When you look at quality steering and suspension components without the delete, and then price the full IFS system with rack and disc brakes, it's actually cheaper and you have arguably a better suspension and steering setup. Making it look clean is the hard part. I do not have a bead roller, but everything I need to welderup I have. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 99% of all our sales go with our MTF engine panels, regardless of which suspension they choose. Since you're going to move the battery to the trunk anyways, it just give you more run and a cleaner look. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moodster 55 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 10 hours ago, Fordzilla06 said: Main reason for delete is engine compartment space, headers, power brakes, possible big block. I know it can all be done without deleting the shock towers, but why? When you look at quality steering and suspension components without the delete, and then price the full IFS system with rack and disc brakes, it's actually cheaper and you have arguably a better suspension and steering setup. Making it look clean is the hard part. I do not have a bead roller, but everything I need to welderup I have. You make some good points and you did some nice work on your car. With everything looking so slick, I'm curious what everybody does with the front apron... do you weld up the vents for the battery, extra holes, etc? david Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69NC 21 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 For me I put the air intake box where the battery was. That way I could reuse the shelf and the vent slots for cold air intake. I'm running a coyote motor so the shock towers needed to go. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fordzilla06 11 Report post Posted July 12, 2017 8 hours ago, mustangstofear said: 99% of all our sales go with our MTF engine panels, regardless of which suspension they choose. Since you're going to move the battery to the trunk anyways, it just give you more run and a cleaner look. I watched the video on the panel installation. How difficult is the installation? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mustangstofear 608 Report post Posted July 14, 2017 Their actually not that hard at all. Of course we do them every day :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites