Damage Instrument Panel Circuit

[bigmal 225]

Hi guys, I have noticed the circuit on the back of my instrument panel is damaged. The circuit itself does not appear to be broken but has come away from the backing. I'm looking for suggestions on the best way to attach it and provide protection over the top.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

One trace has a chunk out of it and the other is folded over, for peace of mind, its only around 50 bucks for a new one.

[Caseyrhe 650]

2 hours ago, Mach1 Driver said:

One trace has a chunk out of it and the other is folded over, for peace of mind, its only around 50 bucks for a new one.

I Agree

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I actually soldered the copper strip several years ago and glued the backing back together and it worked for years

[mwye0627 44]

I've heard that the reproduction flexible circuit panels are kind of hit or miss, and when they are bad it's difficult to diagnose because they look okay...

I think I would begin by cleaning the exposed traces with vinegar or other MILD acid to remove the corrosion and oxidation and then evaluate the circuit.  I have been able to repair them by carefully soldering a single strand 24 Ga wire to bridge the missing area of the trace using a low temperature solder making sure to adequately wet the tip of my soldering iron for quick efficient heat transfer to avoid overheating the plastic film.

Another thought would be to solder the wire to the trace using a small amount of solder paste which should be available at most electronics supply stores - NOT Radio Shack...   And always clean the traces to be soldered with liquid flux to properly clean the copper to accept the solder...

You could use Clear Nail Polish to glue the clear outer layers back together...   Keeping air away from the copper traces is best to eliminate future oxidation....

 

[bigmal 225]

1 hour ago, mwye0627 said:

I've heard that the reproduction flexible circuit panels are kind of hit or miss, and when they are bad it's difficult to diagnose because they look okay...

I think I would begin by cleaning the exposed traces with vinegar or other MILD acid to remove the corrosion and oxidation and then evaluate the circuit.  I have been able to repair them by carefully soldering a single strand 24 Ga wire to bridge the missing area of the trace using a low temperature solder making sure to adequately wet the tip of my soldering iron for quick efficient heat transfer to avoid overheating the plastic film.

Another thought would be to solder the wire to the trace using a small amount of solder paste which should be available at most electronics supply stores - NOT Radio Shack...   And always clean the traces to be soldered with liquid flux to properly clean the copper to accept the solder...

You could use Clear Nail Polish to glue the clear outer layers back together...   Keeping air away from the copper traces is best to eliminate future oxidation....

 

Thanks for that. I will give this a try and if it doesn't work I'll replace it.

[Midlife 814]

They are actually about $75 each. 

I have some Ford documentation stating that these circuit cards were introduced to improve reliability.  I think not (speaking as a certified Reliability Engineer from the American Society of Quality).  They are still using them today, but I don't think Ford ever intended them to last 40-50 years.  The earlier design of wiring bulbs and connectors directly to the gauges is much more reliable.

I think the term "more reliable" is better explained as "cheaper".

[Mach1 Driver 560]

12 hours ago, Midlife said:

They are actually about $75 each. 

I have some Ford documentation stating that these circuit cards were introduced to improve reliability.  I think not (speaking as a certified Reliability Engineer from the American Society of Quality).  They are still using them today, but I don't think Ford ever intended them to last 40-50 years.  The earlier design of wiring bulbs and connectors directly to the gauges is much more reliable.

I think the term "more reliable" is better explained as "cheaper".

Yep I agree with you Randy, it was a cost cutting move. BTW, CJ Pony Parts has a 69 circuit board for $48.95. If I wasn't going to Dakota Digital gauges I would be using your wire harness.

[Midlife 814]

I can still hard-wire an aftermarket dash cluster with a quick-disconnect for the harness, if you want to avoid those pesky wiring problems. 

 

[bigmal 225]

I tried cleaning the coroded wire near the edge and of course it broke. Soldering a wire was not too difficult and has completed the circuit. I have now embedded the circuit and wire in areldite. While it works I will be ordering a new crcuit board form CJ. Hopefull it will turn up before I get he car back on the road. Otherwise I will need to fit it at a later date.

I nticed that there is a lite socket missing on the panel. Is anyone able to tell me what it is for? Really hoping you will say it's a spare but I couldn't be that lucky.

[Midlife 814]

Spare socket is for seat belt reminder light.

[bigmal 225]

13 minutes ago, Midlife said:

Spare socket is for seat belt reminder light.

Thanks Midlife. One less thing to do.

[danno 128]

You melted a circuit for some reason. Generally it is an issue on the circuit card, but if you have an issue outside of the instrument cluster, it will happen with your new one. If fixing it like you did solves the problem, you are probably ok. 

BE EXTREMELY SURE about one major issue when re-assembling.  You MUST have those cardboard ( or make new ones out of plastic) panels between the back of each gauge and the flex strip. If just one is missing and the flexstrip is not perfectly aligned, it will fry a new one quicker than  ribs on the barbi. 

If you are unsure about what I mean, ask. I am sure others on here know exactly what I mean. 

[bigmal 225]

Hi Danny, thanks for that. The circuit wasn't fried but became damaged with me taking it in and out of the car. Also appeared a little corroded. I'll certainly take your advice when fitting the new one. Once I am ready to fit it I'm sure I'll be back fit more guidance.

[unilec 57]

You can buy the printed circuit locally here. Mustang Auto parts have them.

 

http://www.mustangautoparts.com.au/electrical.html

[bigmal 225]

15 hours ago, unilec said:

You can buy the printed circuit locally here. Mustang Auto parts have them.

 

http://www.mustangautoparts.com.au/electrical.html

Thanks for that. I have just orderd one from Sydney Mustangs. Near by and I have otehr parts on order as well.

[Mountaineerfan 44]

I just replaced my circuit panel and changed the lamps to LEDs. I plugged the dash in, connected the battery and turned on the lights. Looked good. I checked the dimmer, and the Dash lights just turned off. So I turned it back on and the lights came on. I turned it off again just to check but then the lights wouldn’t come back on the second time. I also noticed that the turn signal LEDs were not working. Should I check the polarity of them? Could the fact that the lights did not come back on be a result of a bad light switch?

[Caseyrhe 650]

Bad switch is what I had

[Raven R code 281]

I had the same problem with my circuit board. The 2 corners delaminated (and curled over) and shorte out my gauges.