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Glue in glass

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Well it's time for glue in glass.

Is there a post which covers this fun operation.

When i got the car the glass was half hanging out of the channels and they used silicon.

What are the dimensions for a fastback glass.

Thanks 

Walt

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I just re-glued my passenger door the PO had removed most of the stock glue then filled with silicone. I tried several different types of shims Popsicle sticks, rubber gasket then found some tapered pliable shims at HD (think they were for shimming home windows).

Using the popsicle sticks to hold glass in place I assembled the window inside the door then put the tapered shims on 4 corners after removing the sticks. Pulled the window back out and measured everything the re-glued it with the 3M from WCCC. Pay attention to where your alignment adjusting in & out, up & down and stops are make sure you can make final adjustments when your done. 

Fit is perfect be sure and watch that video I even spoke with Don at WCCC he's the one who gave me the tip on using the tapered shims when I ordered the 3M & new guides they now carry guides that are very close to factory specs windows go up & down with one finger.   

Good luck it's not as bad as you think to do just take your time, be sure and let the glue cure for 24 hours, if not cured they can come loose when assembling them.

 

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Just thought of a couple other things if you use a couple bolts in the caulking gun with C clamps like in the video don't it cost me a whole tube of 3M they came loose and ruined the plunger in the 3M tube adhesive went everywhere what a mess. I used 2 pieces of 1/2" CPVC tubing fits the plunger exactly.

If you only need outer beltlines CJ Pony sells just the outer's for half the price of a full set.

If I think of something else I'll post it.

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16 hours ago, Brian Conway said:

For the fastback window;

69 Window Measurements.jpg

These measurements are important for proper adjustment of the window later.  Measure carefully and double check after you think you've finishing pushing the bracket onto the window - if required, slide it the precise location. 

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tapered shims are not ideal simply because they are tapered which can allow for some misalignment.

also, the best adhesive is a 2 part type like the one i use because it will set harder and have little to no flex.

i have done a lot of these windows and they still occasionally need a little fine adjustment with washers on the tracks.

also, the pos repo window rubbers are hard as a rock compared to the orig rubbers which were as soft and compliant as warm butter, therefore, you will likely end up with a slight air leak no matter what you do unless you go to church every sunday.

 

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

tapered shims are not ideal simply because they are tapered which can allow for some misalignment.

 

I needed to use the tapered shims because the previous owner had ground the original material down to metal at the top angled down towards the bottom a straight shim would have had about an 1/8" gap at the top.

I should have just bought all bolt in windows which I might do anyway.

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9 hours ago, Bob & Sue said:

I needed to use the tapered shims because the previous owner had ground the original material down to metal at the top angled down towards the bottom a straight shim would have had about an 1/8" gap at the top.

ah, ok, that makes more sense now.

 

 

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