351w 408 stroker & timing cover / high flow water pump

[Sean D 31]

Hello everyone,

I am starting to collect parts for my 351w 408 stroker build in my 69 mach 1.  All I have right now is a 1974 block machined and ready to build.I have two questions for you all, if you will be so kind to reply.

1. I have read many articles and have seen lots of build specs/sheets with many around 500 hp. But does anyone have a build sheet/specs for a build around 450 rwhp, not EFI that they are willing to share? Something like this: http://www.hotrod.com/articles/0712phr-complete-408-stroker-engine-build/ or http://www.stangtv.com/tech-stories/engine/408ci-small-block-ford-engine-550-hp-build/

2. What timing cover and high flow water pump, with mechanical fuel pump and dipstick do I need? All my searches for timing cover on a 74 block comes up with timing covers with the crankshaft sensor mount and I need one with the dipstick mount instead. Preferably driver side water pump outlet, for more efficient cross-flow radiator. Will the timing cover and water pump combination affect what alternator, PS steering and AC brackets I need to purchase (note I have to purchase a complete set anyway, just need to know what year to go with when searching). Maybe this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-4250?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-edelbrock&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKuvR-OXIMSURkfC-BF4px-iA4iTZDx7RdTOQgjM74voBoCJ3_w_wcB and https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-16231?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-milodon&gclid=CjwKEAjwse7JBRCJ576SqoD7lCkSJABF-bKuFKZW3vG0ePU6YcJOzpD0-nvxp4o_NR7G5CV97fT2mhoCOELw_wcB

 

[barnett468 418]

do you want more bottom end power or less bottom and more top end power?

do you want a mild, moderate or nasty idle?

lite to lite drag car or freeway flier

what trans and gears will you use?

 

the afr 205 heads will get you there and so will some trick flow 11r's.

if you are not on a tight budget i would get a custom cam from chris straub.

eddy air gap if you have hood clearance

carburetor with no choke round 850 cfm

drop down air cleaner

 

 

 

[Sean D 31]

35 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

do you want more bottom end power or less bottom and more top end power?

do you want a mild, moderate or nasty idle?

lite to lite drag car or freeway flier

what trans and gears will you use?

 

the afr 205 heads will get you there and so will some trick flow 11r's.

if you are not on a tight budget i would get a custom cam from chris straub.

eddy air gap if you have hood clearance

carburetor with no choke round 850 cfm

drop down air cleaner

 

 

 

My car is not numbers matching so top end after market is fine. The direction I am after is a moderate cam, on pump gas, that is best for mostly street but setup for track (not drag). Low to mid end power to get out off line agressively. Top end speed is not what i am after, but still have enough power to drop out of overdrive on the interstate. I have freshly installed aod (built with shift kit and other upgraded internals) with new strange true trac 3.70 gear rear end and strange performance axles, and aluminum drive shaft. Will install Street or Track coil over front and rear for best handling possible, before the engine build. Not sure I will go to rack and pinion though as I already have power steering and brakes. It is an AC car if that matters, and will put in vintage air. Does this help...I am really not sure where to start with planning the engine and would love to copy someone that has already done this or knows how to plan it.

[barnett468 418]

ok, i would start with a 418 instead of a 408 unless it will be a daily driver.

you will NOT get nearly 500 real rear wheel hp with a mild to moderate idle so i would consider lowering your hp goals down a bit.

you are probably better off looking at the afr 190 cc heads.

here's one good cam.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1669&gid=289

this is the biggest i would go.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1670&gid=289

i would use 1.7 rockers with either cam.

 

the budget morel roller lifters will be fine.

 

 

i would also use a sanden rotary ac compressor

 

 

 

 

[Sean D 31]

7 hours ago, barnett468 said:

ok, i would start with a 418 instead of a 408 unless it will be a daily driver.

you will NOT get nearly 500 real rear wheel hp with a mild to moderate idle so i would consider lowering your hp goals down a bit.

you are probably better off looking at the afr 190 cc heads.

here's one good cam.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1669&gid=289

this is the biggest i would go.

http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1670&gid=289

i would use 1.7 rockers with either cam.

 

the budget morel roller lifters will be fine.

 

 

i would also use a sanden rotary ac compressor

 

 

 

 

Barnett468,

Thank you for the information. I think I am fine as long as I have just over 400 rwhp. Can this be achieved with a moderate cam? Remember this is my current configuration. The direction I am after is a moderate cam, on pump gas, that is best for mostly street but setup for track (not drag). Low to mid end power to get out off line aggressively. Top end speed is not what i am after, but still have enough power to drop out of overdrive on the interstate. I have freshly installed aod (built with shift kit and other upgraded internals) with new strange true trac 3.70 gear rear end and strange performance axles, and aluminum drive shaft. Will install Street or Track coil over front and rear for best handling possible, before the engine build. Not sure I will go to rack and pinion though as I already have power steering and brakes. It is an AC car if that matters, and will put in vintage air. 

[barnett468 418]

ok, i would definitely run the afr 190 heads, not the 205's.

air gap intake

1" carb spacer if you have room

the first cam i listed

1.7/1.72 rockers. scorpions are a geed deal

10.2 - 10.5 compression

.002 piston to deck height

.035" thick cometic head gaskets the same id as your bore.

4032 material pistons.

1 step colder than stock spark plugs

red rollmaster timing chain . you can get the torrington bearing one if you want.

screw in camshaft oil galley plugs with a .020" hole drilled in each front one.

i like the crane timing gear the best.

maybe a 750 - 780 mechanical secondary carb . the one below would work very well but i would order the slow secondary linkage rod

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-q-750-an/overview/

the same 2600 rpm stall converter

mellings high volume oil pump but hone the bypass piston bore slightly to make it smooth and sand the piston lightly with water or wd-40 and 600 grit sand paper.

arp oil pump drive.

this will have way over 400 rwhp, massive tq and great throttle response and will rev to around 6000 rpm. in short, it will haul ass.

 

 

 

 

 

[Sean D 31]

12 hours ago, barnett468 said:

ok, i would definitely run the afr 190 heads, not the 205's.

air gap intake

1" carb spacer if you have room

the first cam i listed

1.7/1.72 rockers. scorpions are a geed deal

10.2 - 10.5 compression

.002 piston to deck height

.035" thick cometic head gaskets the same id as your bore.

4032 material pistons.

1 step colder than stock spark plugs

red rollmaster timing chain . you can get the torrington bearing one if you want.

screw in camshaft oil galley plugs with a .020" hole drilled in each front one.

i like the crane timing gear the best.

maybe a 750 - 780 mechanical secondary carb . the one below would work very well but i would order the slow secondary linkage rod

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/qft-q-750-an/overview/

the same 2600 rpm stall converter

mellings high volume oil pump but hone the bypass piston bore slightly to make it smooth and sand the piston lightly with water or wd-40 and 600 grit sand paper.

arp oil pump drive.

this will have way over 400 rwhp, massive tq and great throttle response and will rev to around 6000 rpm. in short, it will haul ass.

 

 

 

 

 

Thank you! 

Will this striker kit work with your other recommendations?

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-16123030

[barnett468 418]

that kit has probe 2618 material pistons which i would not use for your app . also, unless you are going to put like 20,000 miles a year or more on it, i would build a 418 instead of a 408.

"there is no replacement for displacement."

[Sean D 31]

7 hours ago, barnett468 said:

that kit has probe 2618 material pistons which i would not use for your app . also, unless you are going to put like 20,000 miles a year or more on it, i would build a 418 instead of a 408.

"there is no replacement for displacement."

Hi Barnett468,

Excellent, I think I am getting there. I cannot find one of these Eagle Street and strip rotating assembly kits for a 418, I do see them for 410 and 414 though. I found these Scat roating kits: http://www.cleggengine.com/ford-small-block-351-windsor-4340-forged-crank-357ci-393ci-408ci-418ci-i-beam-rods-competition.html and I assume the bottom two will are the ones I need to choose, with one of them being internally balanced (is internally balanced a good idea for my application, I guess not). I am sure there are other manufacturers, do you have a preference with the 4032 material pistons?

Also, can you give me some advice on the on hydraulic roller lifter kit to work with the hydraulic roller cam that you mentioned? Something like this: 

[barnett468 418]

ok, I will post the exact part numbers that I would use maybe tonight or tomorrow . Summit racing has 90% of the parts.

i typically use je, race tech,or mahle pistons.

i would get an internally balanced crank.

i would use a 1 piece rear main seal.

i use ati dual inertia ring crank dampers for street strokers.

you should have your deck height verified before buying anything as it may affect the rods or pistons that you need.

when they zero deck your block it will also automatically square it up to the crank journals.

 

you also stated you had your block machined so you may need custom pistons and they still need to machine the deck.

 

[Sean D 31]

On 6/12/2017 at 8:25 AM, barnett468 said:

ok, I will post the exact part numbers that I would use maybe tonight or tomorrow . Summit racing has 90% of the parts.

i typically use je, race tech,or mahle pistons.

i would get an internally balanced crank.

i would use a 1 piece rear main seal.

i use ati dual inertia ring crank dampers for street strokers.

you should have your deck height verified before buying anything as it may affect the rods or pistons that you need.

when they zero deck your block it will also automatically square it up to the crank journals.

 

you also stated you had your block machined so you may need custom pistons and they still need to machine the deck.

 

Barnett368

It would be greatly appriciated and probably save me a costly mistake!

Thank you much!

[Sean D 31]

Hi Barnett 368,

Any update?

[barnett468 418]

sorry, i have been working 12 hours a day lately but i should have a break here maybe tomorrow or the next day.

[Sean D 31]

4 hours ago, barnett468 said:

sorry, i have been working 12 hours a day lately but i should have a break here maybe tomorrow or the next day.

No problem. And thank you ahead...!

[barnett468 418]

heres some suggestions.

 

CORRECT TIMING COVER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5oz-6019-b/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING COVER POINTER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-6023-b

 

WATER PUMP

You can use a passenger side inlet pump with a cross flow rad if you use an aftermarket flexible rad hose . I sometimes use the flexible stainless steel ones. You can also use this pump with a stock hose if you get a dual pass radiator because the lower outlet will be on the passenger side.

 

A far as pump brands, I would use flowkooler or edelbrock.

DRIVERS SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 351W/5.8L/c21_30_231/index.html

 

PASSENGER SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 289/4.7L/c21_30_124/index.html

 

ALTERNATOR BRACKETS

I don't know if the brackets are the same for both pumps.

 

CRANK - Can be used with 1 or 2 piece rear main seal . I would have the block machined for a 1 piece seal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-4351c60/overview/make/ford

 

CONNECTING RODS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6200b3dl19/overview/make/ford

MOREL HYDRAULIC LIFTERS - 1 full turn of preload

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91168/overview/make/ford

CUSTOM PISTONS 4032 MATERIAL - Have them machined to get around 9.8 - 10.0 compression with the cam above . This will be around a 16 cc dish if you do the other things I mentioned but verify this with the piston mfg.

http://racetecpistons.com/

CAM - We need more info on what type of idle etc you want . This would be a very good cam for your app but it might idle just a little rougher than you want . If you want a fairly smooth idle with just a tiny bit of lope/roughness, I would use a slightly smaller cam . Use 1.6 rockers with this cam.

Do you have power brakes?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-12

 

1.6 ROCKERS FOR TALL VALVE COVERS - These will not fit under shelby cobra style covers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1018

 

ANY OF THE "AIR GAP" INTAKES BELOW . SATIN, POLISHED, OR ENDURA SHINE

https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/carburetor-mounting/4-barrel-square-bore?N=4294918329%2B400065%2B4294918322%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294949621&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=intake manifolds

 

INTAKE GASKETS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1262s3/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING CHAIN - It looks like they only make the torrington bearing type for a windsor now but you can call and ask if you don't want the bearing type and want to save a few dollars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

If you had the mains line honed you will possibly need a shorter chain which they used to make.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

CYLINDER HEADS - These will work but a couple others also will.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=afr 1383-716

SPECS

http://www.airflowresearch.com/195cc-sbf-competition-cylinder-head/#specs

 

Cylinders will need to be notched slightly with a dye grinder for the 4.1" 418 stroker crank.

[barnett468 418]

What is the 1st gear ratio on your trans?

[lalojamesliz 56]

20 hours ago, barnett468 said:

heres some suggestions.

 

CORRECT TIMING COVER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5oz-6019-b/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING COVER POINTER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-6023-b

 

WATER PUMP

You can use a passenger side inlet pump with a cross flow rad if you use an aftermarket flexible rad hose . I sometimes use the flexible stainless steel ones. You can also use this pump with a stock hose if you get a dual pass radiator because the lower outlet will be on the passenger side.

 

A far as pump brands, I would use flowkooler or edelbrock.

DRIVERS SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 351W/5.8L/c21_30_231/index.html

 

PASSENGER SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 289/4.7L/c21_30_124/index.html

 

ALTERNATOR BRACKETS

I don't know if the brackets are the same for both pumps.

 

CRANK - Can be used with 1 or 2 piece rear main seal . I would have the block machined for a 1 piece seal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-4351c60/overview/make/ford

 

CONNECTING RODS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6200b3dl19/overview/make/ford

MOREL HYDRAULIC LIFTERS - 1 full turn of preload

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91168/overview/make/ford

CUSTOM PISTONS 4032 MATERIAL - Have them machined to get around 9.8 - 10.0 compression with the cam above . This will be around a 16 cc dish if you do the other things I mentioned but verify this with the piston mfg.

http://racetecpistons.com/

CAM - We need more info on what type of idle etc you want . This would be a very good cam for your app but it might idle just a little rougher than you want . If you want a fairly smooth idle with just a tiny bit of lope/roughness, I would use a slightly smaller cam . Use 1.6 rockers with this cam.

Do you have power brakes?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-12

 

1.6 ROCKERS FOR TALL VALVE COVERS - These will not fit under shelby cobra style covers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1018

 

ANY OF THE "AIR GAP" INTAKES BELOW . SATIN, POLISHED, OR ENDURA SHINE

https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/carburetor-mounting/4-barrel-square-bore?N=4294918329%2B400065%2B4294918322%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294949621&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=intake manifolds

 

INTAKE GASKETS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1262s3/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING CHAIN - It looks like they only make the torrington bearing type for a windsor now but you can call and ask if you don't want the bearing type and want to save a few dollars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

If you had the mains line honed you will possibly need a shorter chain which they used to make.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

CYLINDER HEADS - These will work but a couple others also will.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=afr 1383-716

SPECS

http://www.airflowresearch.com/195cc-sbf-competition-cylinder-head/#specs

 

Cylinders will need to be notched slightly with a dye grinder for the 4.1" 418 stroker crank.

I still say your one of the best knowledgeable people here!

I haven't had someone else be as detailed like this.

Great guy!

[Sean D 31]

On 6/24/2017 at 10:22 PM, barnett468 said:

heres some suggestions.

 

CORRECT TIMING COVER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c5oz-6019-b/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING COVER POINTER

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c2oz-6023-b

 

WATER PUMP

You can use a passenger side inlet pump with a cross flow rad if you use an aftermarket flexible rad hose . I sometimes use the flexible stainless steel ones. You can also use this pump with a stock hose if you get a dual pass radiator because the lower outlet will be on the passenger side.

 

A far as pump brands, I would use flowkooler or edelbrock.

DRIVERS SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 351W/5.8L/c21_30_231/index.html

 

PASSENGER SIDE FLOWKOOLER

https://www.flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/store/Water Pumps-Ford-CID: 289/4.7L/c21_30_124/index.html

 

ALTERNATOR BRACKETS

I don't know if the brackets are the same for both pumps.

 

CRANK - Can be used with 1 or 2 piece rear main seal . I would have the block machined for a 1 piece seal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sca-4351c60/overview/make/ford

 

CONNECTING RODS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-6200b3dl19/overview/make/ford

MOREL HYDRAULIC LIFTERS - 1 full turn of preload

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-91168/overview/make/ford

CUSTOM PISTONS 4032 MATERIAL - Have them machined to get around 9.8 - 10.0 compression with the cam above . This will be around a 16 cc dish if you do the other things I mentioned but verify this with the piston mfg.

http://racetecpistons.com/

CAM - We need more info on what type of idle etc you want . This would be a very good cam for your app but it might idle just a little rougher than you want . If you want a fairly smooth idle with just a tiny bit of lope/roughness, I would use a slightly smaller cam . Use 1.6 rockers with this cam.

Do you have power brakes?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-220525-12

 

1.6 ROCKERS FOR TALL VALVE COVERS - These will not fit under shelby cobra style covers.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1018

 

ANY OF THE "AIR GAP" INTAKES BELOW . SATIN, POLISHED, OR ENDURA SHINE

https://www.summitracing.com/search/make/ford/engine-size/5-8l-351/engine-family/ford-small-block-windsor/carburetor-mounting/4-barrel-square-bore?N=4294918329%2B400065%2B4294918322%2B4294951343%2B4294951338%2B4294951337%2B4294949621&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=intake manifolds

 

INTAKE GASKETS

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1262s3/overview/make/ford

 

TIMING CHAIN - It looks like they only make the torrington bearing type for a windsor now but you can call and ask if you don't want the bearing type and want to save a few dollars.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

If you had the mains line honed you will possibly need a shorter chain which they used to make.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rollmaster-CS10025-Timing-Chain-Set-Double-Roller-Torrington-Early-Ford-302-351-/331680973063

 

CYLINDER HEADS - These will work but a couple others also will.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=afr 1383-716

SPECS

http://www.airflowresearch.com/195cc-sbf-competition-cylinder-head/#specs

 

Cylinders will need to be notched slightly with a dye grinder for the 4.1" 418 stroker crank.

Hi Barnett468! You are awesome!!!!

I do have power brakes and vacuum is a concern, and need over 18 in of vacuum. My AOD does not use vacuum and will run vintage air, so no other need for vacuum other than power brakes. My current 351C only produces 14 to 15 in vacuum and the front disk brakes are not great...needs more pressure, which comes with more vacuum. I do not mind a bit of loopy idle, but too rough. The car will only be driven on nice weather days and will not see track and never see drag strip, so no 100 plus mph. But want very good street capable vehicle off the line and through 70 mph (if that makes sense). The AOD is stock build with shift kit, and my guess is the 1st gear ratio is 2.40:1. I am running a strange 3.70 rear end if that helps. Is there anything you would change in your suggestions knowing that I have power brakes and the AOD specs?

[barnett468 418]

ok i would use a slightly smaller cam and slightly less compression . i will post info later tonight.

[Sean D 31]

On 6/26/2017 at 10:08 AM, barnett468 said:

ok i would use a slightly smaller cam and slightly less compression . i will post info later tonight.

Hi barnett468...sorry to bother but if you have time will you please give me your suggestions on changes to your build knowing I have power brakes that need a min of 18 in vacuum and aod?

[barnett468 418]

2 hours ago, Sean D said:

Hi barnett468...sorry to bother but if you have time will you please give me your suggestions on changes to your build knowing I have power brakes that need a min of 18 in vacuum and aod?

yes, i will try to do it later tonight or tomorrow night.

[Vicfreg 773]

Great suggestions.  I need to jump in and ask a question...   I built a 393 stroker and after putting all my stuff on, including the serpentine belt system, realized I could not see my passenger side timing pointer, which is in the stock location. I am using a mechanical fuel pump and the old style Windsor timing cover.  I have a Ford racing harmonic balancer.  So, the link above seems to show that the Scott Drake timing pointer is at the 2 O'clock location.  Any advice on how to time my car if I move my pointer over there.....

Thanks in advance.   My 393 stroker is running an Edelbrock Performer RPM top end with the small valves.   Good suggestion on checking the deck height.  The early Windsor blocks (mine is a '69) are actually slighty shorter than the later ones.  So, I had to machine my piston tops after all the block machine work was done.

 

 

[Sean D 31]

barnett468,

About to start buying parts for the build you were helping me spec. Do you mind sharing the changes that you think I need knowing that I have Power Brakes and the transmission information?

[Sean D 31]

On 6/26/2017 at 8:12 AM, Sean D said:

Hi Barnett468! You are awesome!!!!

I do have power brakes and vacuum is a concern, and need over 18 in of vacuum. My AOD does not use vacuum and will run vintage air, so no other need for vacuum other than power brakes. My current 351C only produces 14 to 15 in vacuum and the front disk brakes are not great...needs more pressure, which comes with more vacuum. I do not mind a bit of loopy idle, but too rough. The car will only be driven on nice weather days and will not see track and never see drag strip, so no 100 plus mph. But want very good street capable vehicle off the line and through 70 mph (if that makes sense). The AOD is stock build with shift kit, and my guess is the 1st gear ratio is 2.40:1. I am running a strange 3.70 rear end if that helps. Is there anything you would change in your suggestions knowing that I have power brakes and the AOD specs?

barnett468,

About to start buying parts for the build you were helping me spec. Do you mind sharing the changes that you think I need knowing that I have Power Brakes and the transmission information?

[Kevin427 18]

Sean, I have a combo close to what you are looking to build. I used a new timing cover from Autozone for a 1969 351W and an Edelbrock aluminum water pump for a 1970 351W since the outlet is on the driver side. then I got a Champion rad to fit a 1970 Mustang to match up with the water pump. worked out great. I used a molded lower hose from a Ford truck that I cut down to fit, the flex hoses work OK but are kind of cheesy and look unprofessional. the stainless flex hoses are nice though.