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latoracing

Wheeling Machine build version 1.0

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I have wanted to build this for many years and have finally made time to do so. I haven't had a need for a wheeling machine for many years and have always had to use someone else's equipment. I almost went with an Imperial wheel and had it built, but there is this issue with buying vs. building. I seem to have more time than funds so I decided to attempt my version. Plus I am board and need a new challenge lol.

The machine will be built around a Hoosier Profiles 3 x 8 upper with 3 x 3 contact flat hardened anvils and their adjuster. These parts arrived a couple of months ago and I double checked the measurements and did a very rough sketch of my vision. 

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I have access to the equipment at work, along with Solid Edge CAD programs, and a bunch of other fun toys, which i know is cheating, but why not take a little advantage? Taking my rough sketch and getting it plugged into a format that can be made into a DXF file along with a bunch of other modeling aspects that really didn't need to be done with this particular project. In a few hours a basic drawing of the frame was rendered.

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The main dimensions are 4" x 8" section made from 3/8" CRS with some schedule 80 pipe for the fill ins. I know that the tubes will offer 0 weight savings as the tube is almost 3x heaver that the two plugs of 3/8" material. The tubes will offer little help for torsional rigidity, other than to dampen some harmonics, and will add some aesthetics, which I personally like, so they are a part of it. This will be a 26" throat design, with a "short" 8" backbone. I am making the lower portion removable, but in reading many threads on Metal Meet and All Metal Shaping forums, I'll probably never take it off. 

Getting all the details all dialed in the parts were laser cut. Once chopped out, I was able to get the wraps rolled into shape with one of our "little" section rollers.

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In no time, the wraps were all basically formed, ready to be trimmed.

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I'll get them home so I can bevel edges (for days lol) and get this tack welded in one piece. Should make for a fun project, least it has so far.

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I cheated and bought the Harbor Freight version ,actually works quite well ,it could stand a finer finish on the anvils and the wheel .It could also stand a bit of reinforcement to stop deflection ,although there really isn't that much on thinner metals .

Looks like a fun project and if i had access to the machinery to build i probably would have done the same thing so keep the pics coming ...oh ,and wait until you roll your thumb through the wheel 

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1 hour ago, latoracing said:

I have wanted to build this for many years and have finally made time to do so.  but there is this issue with buying vs. building. I seem to have more time than funds so I decided to attempt my version. Plus I am board and need a new challenge lol.

 

Mike, I don't think you're the only one here with the above 4 issues :) My youngest boy once said to me, I think you like making things to work on the Mustang more than working on it.

Ya know, between waiting for you to post, and reading your posts, I'm not getting much done here in the heat in Bakersfield. As usual, I can't wait for the updates. 

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16 hours ago, Midlife said:

Is this the same as what is known as an English Wheel?  Gawd, I'd love to have one in my shop!

Try out the one from harbor freight ,well worth the price with several shapes. It handles 18 gauge steel and aluminum very easily 

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I have had a fun day with the weld joint preparation and part fitting / trimming. I had eluted to the dread of having to bevel all these weld joints and decided to try an old torch method with a plasma cutter. I'm sure several people have accomplished this task this way, but I haven't tried it. I wasn't 100% certain the "flame" would be controllable, but it works like a charm, with or without a guide.

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The without method is a little on the shaky side, but knocked a 45ish degree bevel all the way around these parts in less than a couple of hours. A rather quick touchup with a flap disk and it was ready for assembly.

I started with the inside strip, trimming, tacking and forming it a little as I went.

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You wouldn't think that a few tacks and very few stitch weld would draw (shrink) a part terribly, this was on the road to pretzel-ville lol. I clamped it to the table and test fitted the pipe inserts.

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Positioning the opposite side in it's place I tack welded the 3" Schedule 80 316L pipes to the lower plate. 

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I am going to cut some gussets to go in-between the tubes and the fillers, for a little extra support. I'll have to plasma cut a bunch of them.

Mike

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No, it's the same ol' one I've had, just moved it away from the wall as I need access to both sides of it. The frame is sturdy and I skimped on the top (3/16' hot rolled) as I usually do not play with 3/8" plate. I should have pained the frame, it's all rusty now, but still works great. 

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I had some drops left over from a job that required the pipe and I have been looking for a place to use them instead of scrapping them. They might not add anything to it, but hopefully won't hurt anything lol. 

As the majority of the steel (so far) in this is 3/8" it weighs 15.7 pounds per square foot. This frame alone is 200 lbs so should dress out around 275ish. 

I took the plasma cutter to the tacks on the butt welded joining the inner wrap and it relaxed all the stress in the weldment, it lays nice and flat without any clamps now. That 1/8" twist could have gotten a lot worse. Getting the outer wrap all dialed in and tack welded to the side I left the butt weld totally undone. Thankfully, this is still flat.

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I have a few areas to bevel then I can get the rest of this frame tack welded together. So far so good, yea!!!

Mike

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As all the tack welding was taken care of and a few other details completed, its weld time. I would have loved to just run 4ea long beads all the way around as that would be really fun, yea, that would turn out great lol. I have taken my time and not gone very fast at all. I stitch welded all over and let it cool. Flipped the frame over and repeated. I kept the majority of this fairly cool to the touch, as in not super heating the entire frame. The entire time i have been welding over the past few days I have heard only two tacks pop. Both of them were on the frame side that I had just put in place. It isn't warping, thankfully, and I have just a little more to do. While it is cooling I have started the legs with their attachment plates. More to come...

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No need to call for help from the Road Runner just yet, I think it might just work. I just hope I do not come across the preverbal "cliff" lol...

I had some drops left over from my chassis table and thought it would make a nice front leg. It is 4" x 4" x 3/16" with a plate that will be bolted to a mount constructed out of a shorter drop of 4" x 4" tube. The mount will be boxed in and is contoured to fit the bottom of the frame. Need to get some fasteners...

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I haven't built the removable anvil holder yet, so I got it mostly together this afternoon. I added some 5/16-18tpi adjustment set screw provisions (just in case) for possible fine tuning. These parts were cut using a keyed style fitment, note the four alignment holes in the plate, which didn't burn out too nicely lol.

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The keyed assembly went together nicely, after getting rid of a few chewy areas and a little more beveling. It was tack welded in place.

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A little while later, we have a fully welded part. I welded it so that it can be ground flush on most of the seams, so it will look like the rest of the frame. 

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I need to design the rear legs and buy a bunch of flap wheels, I've got just a "little" bit of grinding to do.

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Fabricated the two radius parts for my front leg mount that encloses the ends of the chopped up square tube. I marked the location on the frame and the cut angle on the bottom of the leg. A little prep work and the mount was fried in place. A little more grinding...

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In preparation for mounting the lower anvil holder post I got out my trusty laser level. Getting the frame level in the critical planes I leveled the laser and adjusted it to the center of the upper mount. Measuring then marking the place where the beam landed yielded a nice surprise. The lower portion is less than 1/16" twisted, which I am well pleased. These marks were transferred to the outer edges of the lower frame for reference. I'm going to get the lower mount cleaned up and bolted to the attachment plate and tacked in place. once it is tacked, I'll check it again with the laser. 

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Three hours without a reply to this artwork??? C'mon guys! You sure know how to make a guy feel inferior Mike. Have you thought about how you plan on finishing the metal? Typical grey or green paint maybe?

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I installed the upper mounting plate that was provided with the adjuster on the top portion yesterday.

Welded the attachment plate for the removable arm on this afternoon. The laser trick worked nice and helped get it all aligned. Now I need to fix the rear legs and get the rest of the frame all smooth...

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As my Photobucket account has been deleted, had to go and redo the pics. (My build will take a while lol)

Got all the grinding and pinhole filling accomplished over a few afternoons. As the last portions of the machine were needed to be built to hold this thing up I looked at several different size tubes and ended up going with the same 4" x 4" square to match the front. A little bit of creative compound mitering with my plasma torch produced this...

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I was anxious to get it all assembled to see if my laser layout was accurate, and I was surprised with the results. It took very little adjustments to get the wheels all in line and square (thankfully!!!!) Then it was time to try it out for the first time.

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I haven't "driven" one of these in quite some time, but after a few moments of ... where is this thing going... I got my bearings back. In just a few passes the wheel produced a nice shape, without a ton of effort. This is a piece of 3003-H32 Aluminum, .060" thick, which I had laying around. 

It is all blown back apart and at work fixing to get some plastic melted all over it. All most done and getting ready to be put into some use.

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You continue to floor me with the amount of talent you have Mike. I believe if you charged $75 an hour for labor plus material you'd have a line waiting out your door. Seriously.

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