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lalojamesliz

Cooling time

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I ended up going with a 408w for my 69 coupe and plan to make close to 600hp. 

I'll be using a 4r70w auto trans with its own cooler and not the radiator.

Do you guys think this radiator with contour fans will be fine for street driving?

http://streetortrack.com/Aluminum-Triple-Pass-Radiator-19-x-28-pr-24580.html

I haven't decided on the water pump yet but it will be mechanical

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By its size it looks plenty big, but you can always contact Shaun at SorT. Those hose inlet/outlet look too be on the wrong sides for a 351w.

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Did you talk to Chris Straub?

How far is the engine going to be bored?

What will the dynamic compression be?

What proof will you get that it is 600 hp?

 

Thats a chinese radiator . I wouldn't use a chinese rad on a 600 hp engine . you can call griffen .

you need a high flow pump and a brass high flow thermostat also.

if you live where it never freezes, run 80% reverse osmosis water, 20% ethylene glycol anti freeze and 1.5 times the recommended amount of dei radiator relief.

you should use a fan controller . i use dcc controllers.

flow kooler and the high end edelbrock water pumps are fine.

you should use a 70 - 90 amp alternator when you use a good electric fan.

you can install a core support to hood seal like the cj's had but you shouldn't need it with a good system.

you also must set the timing curve to its optimum level because incorrect timing can cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would.

 

the contur, lincoln, taurus, and hhr fans are the best you can get . spal has an xlnt fan and derale makes some decent ones as well but i use used factoty type fans.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, RPM said:

By its size it looks plenty big, but you can always contact Shaun at SorT. Those hose inlet/outlet look too be on the wrong sides for a 351w.

Yeah I noticed that now.  I'll give him a call

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2 hours ago, barnett468 said:

Did you talk to Chris Straub?

How far is the engine going to be bored?

What will the dynamic compression be?

What proof will you get that it is 600 hp?

 

Thats a chinese radiator . I wouldn't use a chinese rad on a 600 hp engine . you can call griffen .

you need a high flow pump and a brass high flow thermostat also.

if you live where it never freezes, run 80% reverse osmosis water, 20% ethylene glycol anti freeze and 1.5 times the recommended amount of dei radiator relief.

you should use a fan controller . i use dcc controllers.

flow kooler and the high end edelbrock water pumps are fine.

you should use a 70 - 90 amp alternator when you use a good electric fan.

you can install a core support to hood seal like the cj's had but you shouldn't need it with a good system.

you also must set the timing curve to its optimum level because incorrect timing can cause an engine to run hotter than it otherwise would.

 

the contur, lincoln, taurus, and hhr fans are the best you can get . spal has an xlnt fan and derale makes some decent ones as well but i use used factoty type fans.

 

 

 

 

Yes Chris straub. 

I dropped of the engine friday and haven't spoken to the shop (Jim grubbs motorsports)  about that. I would guess 30 over

Chris recommend 10-1 since I only have 91 octane available. 

Both Chris and Jim grubbs motorsports said 600 shouldn't be a problem with everything that I have ( I'm buying the custom cam, afr 205 heads, 408w kit, 850 carb or efi) i told them carb

I live in a desert almost. The coldest it gets here is low 30's to high 20's and i wont be driving this then

I was talking to a guy on another forum and he recommended a Holley self learning sniper efi .....

I've been looking into it and it can control timing, trigger fans, and control the ignition coil like a msd box IIRC

It needs specific distributors to control the timing but if it can do these things up just return my digital 6al and buu the Holley sniper kit.

I have a custom 300a alternator for one of my cars (car audio) that I was thinking of just having re-cased for my mustang. Just a idea but if I don't do that I'll just get a decent output alt for sure. Custom or something else

Thanks for the advice on the radiator and pump :)

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54 minutes ago, barnett468 said:

is chris going to do the cam?

Yup. Already paid him for the whole valvetrain ( cam, rockers, lifters, timing kit, pushrods, head gaskets and valvecovers

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ and some more $$$$$$$

Just kidding, it wasn't as expensive as I thought it would be

He's just waiting for me to confirm what pistons the shop will use . 

I asked for forged pistons because I might add funny gas down the road :)

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1 hour ago, barnett468 said:

i would 2618 material pistons if you plan to use nitrous.

 

 

Is the link you have me on my other thread your friend's randy gillis?

http://www.racetech.com/

I'd like to ask him for a set once I find out what size I will need. 

Chris straub suggested flat tops and told me to get the 72cc afr's instead of the 58cc heads like I was about to order so I can end up with a 10-1 comp. 

When i dropped off my block they told me no forged flat pistons were available right now.  I'll call tomorrow to ask what's the least they can bore my block so I can look into custom pistons

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1 hour ago, lalojamesliz said:

Is the link you have me on my other thread your friend's randy gillis?

http://www.racetech.com/

I'd like to ask him for a set once I find out what size I will need. 

Chris straub suggested flat tops and told me to get the 72cc afr's instead of the 58cc heads like I was about to order so I can end up with a 10-1 comp. 

When i dropped off my block they told me no forged flat pistons were available right now.  I'll call tomorrow to ask what's the least they can bore my block so I can look into custom pistons

yes, that is randy gillis . tell him mustang mike sent you.

their 2618 pistons are a lot more than their, 4032's but you need 2618's with power adders or they may break.

probe pistons are 2618 and are much less than randys, however, i would use a different piston than the probes with 600 hp and a power adder but lots of people run the probes without problems.

je in anaheim and wiseco and diamond can all make them as well.

they can hone a block or bore it as little as .005" over what it currently is but the rings are a problem . if i have a standard block i only go .020" . after that it needs to go in .010" increments.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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10 hours ago, lalojamesliz said:

I just ordered the "cools up to 700hp" 4 row

http://www.championradiators.com/Ford-mustang-passenger-side-outlet-4-row-passenger-side-radiator-67-70

Thank you barnett468 

that won't cool 70 hp . the tubes need to be 1/2" ones and 3/8" on center . i think think those tubes are only 3/8" ones and farther apart than 3/8" but you would need to call . you also need a cross flow.

 

it seems like you bought a bunch of high end parts to build your engine with little regard to cost and now you want to get away with the cheapest radiator you can which is illogical if you care about protecting your engine.

 

 

 

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this is similar to the griffen but not identical but it is a very good rad and "should" work...unless it is bore .040 over and/or you use a power adder or you have ac etc. it does not have a trans cooler.

you can also call ron davis and matsons and spikes radiators to see what they have

 http://classicfordradiator.com/68-70FordMustangCougarAluminuBigBlockradiator24wideCopperRadiator-3-1-2.aspx

http://www.spikeradiators.com/

http://www.mattsonscustomradiator.com/

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/custom.htm

 

 

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15 hours ago, barnett468 said:

that won't cool 70 hp . the tubes need to be 1/2" ones and 3/8" on center . i think think those tubes are only 3/8" ones and farther apart than 3/8" but you would need to call . you also need a cross flow.

 

it seems like you bought a bunch of high end parts to build your engine with little regard to cost and now you want to get away with the cheapest radiator you can which is illogical if you care about protecting your engine.

 

 

 

I cancelled the order.

I'm not trying to cheap out, I just thought that one was good. Cooling is important to me because I've seen what can happen ( head warpage/blown headgaskets)

What do you mean about 3/8 on center?

Cost is important to me since I have limited funds so I can't buy the best of everything,  just the level below that ;)

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17 hours ago, barnett468 said:

 

 

nope, that pile only has 1 row of tubes.

How do you know it has just 1 row?  CJPP has the same radiator listed with more information.  They specifically state it has 2 rows of 1 and 1/4 tubes with 5/8" spacing  I'm just asking if you've had one and seen the core.  I'm hoping you're wrong just because I put one of those in over the winter.  I haven't gone on a good long drive yet to see how it performs.  The fit was good though it was slightly deeper than the copper one it replaced.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-radiator-250-maxcore-performance-2-row-aluminum-24-type-338-oe-style-with-air-conditioning-v8-1968-1969/p/RADA88/

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1 hour ago, MN69Grande said:

How do you know it has just 1 row?  CJPP has the same radiator listed with more information.  They specifically state it has 2 rows of 1 and 1/4 tubes with 5/8" spacing  I'm just asking if you've had one and seen the core.  I'm hoping you're wrong just because I put one of those in over the winter.  I haven't gone on a good long drive yet to see how it performs.  The fit was good though it was slightly deeper than the copper one it replaced.

http://www.cjponyparts.com/acp-radiator-250-maxcore-performance-2-row-aluminum-24-type-338-oe-style-with-air-conditioning-v8-1968-1969/p/RADA88/

 

the ad i read for it said it only had 1 row of 1 1/4" tubes.

the spacing of the tubes is 5/8" which is wide but the fact that they are 1 1/4" deep will offset that a little but i still wouldnt use a chinese rad in a 600 hp engine because the cores are still not usually as good of a design as a us made core . also, that is not a cross flow radiator so it wont cool well.

 

 

 

.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, barnett468 said:

 

the ad i read for it said it only had 1 row of 1 1/4" tubes.

the spacing of the tubes is 5/8" which is wide but the fact that they are 1 1/4" deep will offset that a little but i still wouldnt use a chinese rad in a 600 hp engine because the cores are still not usually as good of a design as a us made core . also, that is not a cross flow radiator so it wont cool well.

 

 

 

.

 

Fair enough on the Chinese concern.  Aren't all classic style radiators down flow?   

I've got a smaller engine than lalojamesliz - 347 closer to 400hp. So I guess since it's in and purchased and installed, I'll just hope the ACP works for me.

I do have to agree with the other comments above about using DCC controllers and Contour fans.  I've got that setup and it is amazing.  Also the new Engine masters basically confirmed with a dyno that a factory fan steals something like 25-30 horse power.

 

 

1 hour ago, barnett468 said:

 

 

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