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prayers1

Need advise on UCA bolt

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I did the Shock Tower Reinforcement and placed the UCA in place to see how it fits. I found due to the extra 1/8" thickness from the brace, the bolt was a little shorter in length. I thought to replace them with longer 8 grade bolts but could not budge the bolts from the UCA. I figured maybe the bolts are permanent, so I put the UCA back on and tighten the nut and torqued the nuts to 90#,  the bolt threads did not go past the nut, so I retorqued them to 130# and now the bolts are almost flush with the nut. The max I can torque them is 140# which will not give me much more thread stick out.

I'm enclosing a picture. Is it safe to keep it as is or do I need longer bolts.

Has anyone removed their UCA bolts and how?

Thanks for your help.

 

DSC04146.JPG

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A hammer or a press will get those UCA bolts right out....easy.

 

the issue is that the replacements will not have the knurl to prevent them from rotating. You will need to use epoxy or a tack weld on the new bolts.

 

mil spec is that you need three threads past the nut. That is for resistance of backing off as well as the end of a threaded bolt is not reliable strength.

also, if you have now over torqued those bolts, you may have compromised them

 

bob

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Bob, so there is no other way but to press or hammer the bolts out??

Is it possible to take one bolt out at a time while the coil spring is attached? 

I wonder why this hasn't happen to anyone else. The UCA are a Scott Drake product purchased from Open Tracker.

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Longer bolts are needed.  I did the same thing you are doing and if I remember correctly I got everything from Pro Motorsports.  The longer bolts have the knurl on them.  I knew a guy who had the tool for pressing them in.  It cost me a lunch.  Your engine compartment looks like Black Jade.  True?

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Glad I'm not the only one with this problem....

I guess you guys are right about replacing them. I'll need at least a 2 1/2" bolt and AMK sells a complete set for a 1966 Mustang with fine thread.

That is a low gloss Black engine enamel paint, the overhead florescent lights give it a different color.

 

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Yes, Pro Motorsports carries longer control arm bolts.  http://www.drgas.com/pro-motorsports  I purchased my shock tower reinforcement kit from Pro Motorsports and it came with longer upper control arm bolts.

It only takes a hammer to remove the old bolts and install the new bolts.  Removing and Installing the control arm is the difficult part of the project.

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You can't  do this with the UCA in the car or with the spring in.

most people don't have this problem because most people don't weld in that bracing. Also many people who do likly just live with the bolts too short because they don't know better

 

bob

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I was told by John at Street or Track that the wrap around braces are needed if I had cracked towers. He said most of the strength and support comes from the B302 and vertical tower braces that are welded to the frame.  As in my case, I have good shock towers and by welding in the wrap arounds it leaves me little room to access the plugs on my Cleveland motor.

I was tempted to snug it up a little more and leave it as is, but my conscience kept telling me other wise

Good move on Pro Motor Sports by supplying the bolts. I wish I was advised of this concern, because I'm sure the venders are well aware. Now I have to do the job twice.

Well I'm sure glad you Guys steered me in the right direction. Safety to me is most important and I sure don't want the nut walking off and dropping a UCA or the spring kicking out.

 

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2 hours ago, Vicfreg said:

if you are going to go to all of the trouble to take the bolts out, you should do the Shelby drop. Lots of templates available for this, and much improved handling.

Yep, ditto, I agree.

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those are NOT wrap around shock tower reinforcements and it your towers are cracked outside the factory brackets you must fix them by welding them then adding the wrap around shock tower bracket extension.

use factory nuts or usa made grade 8 nuts

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, 1969Fstback said:

I have an aluminum template I bought when I did the drop on mine.  If interested,  PM me your address and I'll mail it to you.

Who, me? I made my template and did the drop years ago. But thanks for the offer.

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I did the Shelby drop a year ago. That's what you see in the above picture. The welded in braces hide the original holes.

I know I don't have the STOCK wrap around braces. I purposely did not use the wrap around braces that came with the reinforcement kit since my shock towers are in great shape, they are only used if you have damaged or cracked towers, they have nothing to do for flex.

I purchased from Mustangs Unlimited, AMK UPPER CONTROL ARM BOLT KIT 65/66 MUSTANG. The bolts are fine thread and are 2 1/2" longer. I was able to hammer out the UCA bolts and hammer in the new ones. I'm thinking that they might interfere with my headers, so I'll take off a 1/4".

Everything is all bolted up.

Thanks for your advise!     

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11 hours ago, prayers1 said:

I know I don't have the STOCK wrap around braces. I purposely did not use the wrap around braces that came with the reinforcement kit since my shock towers are in great shape, they are only used if you have damaged or cracked towers, they have nothing to do for flex.

nope, they are in fact used to PREVENT cracking by reducing flex . if there was no flex, the towers would not crack . this is why they are used by the factory in some cars like 428 cobra jets and boss 302's . if someone told you otherwise, they are quite obviously not a mechanical engineer and they are wrong.

an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

 

 

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On 4/30/2017 at 7:59 AM, prayers1 said:

I have good shock towers and by welding in the wrap arounds it leaves me little room to access the plugs on my Cleveland motor.

They make short spark plugs and 90 degree porcelain boots.

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