Upper Control Arm rubbing on shock tower?

[prayers1 153]

I pulled the UCA off to weld in the outside shock tower reinforcements and noticed a bulge on the shock tower towards the front.

This is happening to both right and left sides.

These are new UCA's from Street or Track, installed 2 years ago when I did the Shelby drop.

I am not aware but is there a left and right UCA? Maybe I installed the wrong side. I just don't see a difference.

I assume I could hammer down the tab that is hitting on the shock tower but wanted to post this to see if there is something I'm over looking.

In advance, thanks for your time and help!

[Caseyrhe 650]

pictures??

[lanky 44]

Which style arms did you get? The shafts sometimes look like they can be mounted either way, but one side of the shaft is meant to be towards the car and one side away. I have ORP roller upper arms and this is the case for them.

[prayers1 153]

Here's a couple of pictures.

When I said "This is happening to both right and left sides". So not to confuse anyone, I meant its happening on the Passenger and Drivers sides and effecting the area closest to the front of the car.

The bulge is apparent from within the engine compartment. Should I leave it as is or flatten it back to how it was?

On both UCA's it says Scott Drake A1613. I Googled that number no luck, but did catch a comment on CJP, a customer had this to say,

"The back of them hit the shock tower for 73 mustang on upward travel. You need to grind them down to get them so work. I called Scott drake and they new about it but didn't change them."

What do you  think?

 

 

[JayEstes 172]

If I remember correctly, I had the same issue.  I believe I wound up just grinding the arms just a tad to get clearance.  My (vague) recollection was that the repro arms - when compared to the originals - didn't have enough curve stamped into them, and this left more flange to interfere with the tower.  I chalked it up to "cheap repro parts not quite being to spec"

i believe the interference was minor tho- and I only needed to grind 1/16in maybe 1/8in..

[prayers1 153]

Yeah Jay I think your right on the grinding.

I was concerned if there was a right or left side UCA or something I was overlooking. I was more surprised than anything because I bought from a reputable vendor then discovered it was a Scott Drake drop ship item.

I don't know whats happening to Scott Drake but the last few I products I had from him was not up to standards.

Thanks!

 

[JayEstes 172]

PS.  Don't forget to check what Ianky said above... and don't forget to touch up the paint on both parts.

Good news from a little down the road from where you are, is I am driving my car these days, and I am very happy with the suspension!  I put KYB gas-adjust shocks into a stock front suspension rebuild.  I did the shelby drop, and I added a 1in front sway brace.  I think the sway brace is by far the best mod I made to the car, very little body roll in front in turns.  My suspension is quiet and smooth and I am quite satisfied with it in the end.

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Yes do the round over grinding to allow complete free pivot of arm.

Something that the maker should have done.

[prayers1 153]

Yes I understand, Thanks!

Lanky said " The shafts sometimes look like they can be mounted either way, but one side of the shaft is meant to be towards the car and one side away. "

Confused on what he meant??

How do I know which side is which? Is there a right and left??

[LoneWolf2U 136]

He was stating that some shafts have a landing where the bolt goes. the smooth side is towards the chassis. this will allow shims to be placed in when needed.

If they are both off try switching them from dvr to pass side and check for rubbing also.

[prayers1 153]

OK will try.

[Rsanter 152]

If it was me I would install thin shims between the UCA and the tower. 

I would install the same thickness shim in all four locations. You can use a good quality washer.

 

then when aligned the lower arm eccentric will be adjusted to compensate

 

bob