BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 25, 2017 have you priced out the difference between going with a 31 spline setup and a 35 spline setup? if you have to buy all the parts, i think you may find the cost difference is very small (comparing prices at strange as an example). 1 lalojamesliz reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 26, 2017 On 5/24/2017 at 6:45 PM, BuckeyeDemon said: have you priced out the difference between going with a 31 spline setup and a 35 spline setup? if you have to buy all the parts, i think you may find the cost difference is very small (comparing prices at strange as an example). Yes I priced them. I think the price difference is like $400 for the 3rd member and axles/bearings. I know the 31 spline aftermarket axles can handle a lot but im nervous about breaking something since I'm almost positive I'll end up with a high gear ratio in back since I have a 4r70w. That and the drag radials and caltracs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 27, 2017 On 5/26/2017 at 1:09 AM, lalojamesliz said: Yes I priced them. I think the price difference is like $400 for the 3rd member and axles/bearings. I know the 31 spline aftermarket axles can handle a lot but im nervous about breaking something since I'm almost positive I'll end up with a high gear ratio in back since I have a 4r70w. That and the drag radials and caltracs. center section: price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential). http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/ 31 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/ 35 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/ i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight). here is a 35 spline 1 lalojamesliz reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 27, 2017 10 hours ago, BuckeyeDemon said: center section: price difference is anywhere from $35 cheaper to $310 more (i believe you get a lot better differential). http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/strange-pro-ford-9-n-case-posi-unit-std-gear-yoke.html/ 31 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/ford-mopar-or-chevy-alloy-axles-ret-plts-brgs-1-2-stud-kit.html/ 35 spline axle package: $421 http://www.strangeengineering.net/product/35-spl-alloy-axles-retainer-plates-bearings-1-2-stud-kit.html/ i think it seems crazy not to go 35 if building all new (unless you don't want a few extra pounds of weight). here is a 35 spline I remember the axles being the same price, it's the 3rd member and truetrac that I want that adds $$$$ for the 35 spline. What spline count is the one on the left? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 27, 2017 37 minutes ago, lalojamesliz said: I remember the axles being the same price, it's the 3rd member and truetrac that I want that adds $$$$ for the 35 spline. What spline count is the one on the left? 28? looks like a 35 spline truetrac is $200 more than the 31 spline truetrac? i'm probably just not understanding something. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 28, 2017 2 hours ago, BuckeyeDemon said: 28? looks like a 35 spline truetrac is $200 more than the 31 spline truetrac? i'm probably just not understanding something. No, I think your right. I just remember the 35 spline axle kit and truetrac 3rm member being like $2100 ish Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 28, 2017 9 hours ago, lalojamesliz said: No, I think your right. I just remember the 35 spline axle kit and truetrac 3rm member being like $2100 ish i don't recall you saying anything about what housing you plan to get or what you have, but i don't believe the 35's work with the small bearing ford housing. double check. also, the concept of two third members with two different gears doesn't make a lot of sense to me if you have an overdrive (and especially with a 370 type gear). too much work/money. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 29, 2017 14 hours ago, BuckeyeDemon said: i don't recall you saying anything about what housing you plan to get or what you have, but i don't believe the 35's work with the small bearing ford housing. double check. also, the concept of two third members with two different gears doesn't make a lot of sense to me if you have an overdrive (and especially with a 370 type gear). too much work/money. I already have a 9 inch rear from a 69 cougar. It currently has a 3.00 open diff if I remember correctly. I do need to check the bearing size still..... My gears are supposed to be 2.84, 1.63, 1.00 and lastly .78 Those and a 3k stall converter. To cruise at 60 mph what rpms do you think I should be at? I still need to learn about how to use the trans controller and how lock up happens so I don't burn my trans fluid while driving in town.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 29, 2017 8 hours ago, lalojamesliz said: I already have a 9 inch rear from a 69 cougar. It currently has a 3.00 open diff if I remember correctly. I do need to check the bearing size still..... My gears are supposed to be 2.84, 1.63, 1.00 and lastly .78 Those and a 3k stall converter. To cruise at 60 mph what rpms do you think I should be at? I still need to learn about how to use the trans controller and how lock up happens so I don't burn my trans fluid while driving in town.... i'm not a good person to get advice from for automatics. hopefully others can provide insight/rationale. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 29, 2017 9 hours ago, lalojamesliz said: I already have a 9 inch rear from a 69 cougar. It currently has a 3.00 open diff if I remember correctly. I do need to check the bearing size still..... My gears are supposed to be 2.84, 1.63, 1.00 and lastly .78 Those and a 3k stall converter. To cruise at 60 mph what rpms do you think I should be at? I still need to learn about how to use the trans controller and how lock up happens so I don't burn my trans fluid while driving in town.... i thought you were going to use a nodular case and daytona pinion. i don't understand your question about rpm vs mph, however, with that much power it will be around a 6500 rpm engine so imo you don't want to have it spin less than at least 1800 rpm at 60. check this out. http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php 1 lalojamesliz reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 29, 2017 4 hours ago, barnett468 said: i thought you were going to use a nodular case and daytona pinion. i don't understand your question about rpm vs mph, however, with that much power it will be around a 6500 rpm engine so imo you don't want to have it spin less than at least 1800 rpm at 60. check this out. http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php Yes, your right. The 3rd member and axle kit i plan on buying will be a nodular case and daytona pinion with 35 spline axles. Strange is the ones that gave me the $2100ish quote. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 29, 2017 If having two different 3rd members won't be a big benefit as in having one to cruise and the other to tear up the streets/quarter mile with my trans, what ratio do you guys think would be best? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 30, 2017 On 5/29/2017 at 2:42 PM, lalojamesliz said: If having two different 3rd members won't be a big benefit as in having one to cruise and the other to tear up the streets/quarter mile with my trans, what ratio do you guys think would be best? i personally think only you can answer this because you know what's more important to you and how to weigh out both situations. for starters though, you need to calculate out the mph you are trying to hit in the quarter and what RPM you want that at to determine your optimal gear. then also decide what RPM you want to cruise with at what MPH. Then it's a compromise between the two. How much compromise is up to you. I just don't personally believe the average person would swap third members based on what they feel like they are going to do on any given day. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 1 hour ago, BuckeyeDemon said: i personally think only you can answer this because you know what's more important to you and how to weigh out both situations. for starters though, you need to calculate out the mph you are trying to hit in the quarter and what RPM you want that at to determine your optimal gear. then also decide what RPM you want to cruise with at what MPH. Then it's a compromise between the two. How much compromise is up to you. I just don't personally believe the average person would swap third members based on what they feel like they are going to do on any given day. I understand what your saying. Am I correct thinking anything below 3k rpms with cause my converter to slip and heat up my trans fluid? I have a external cooler but I don't want to cruise at 65mph at 3k rpms and cause excessive engine wear unless that my only option with my current torque converter. I'm thinking my best option is to just learn how to change the gear on the rear diff and just experiment. I'll use the calculator link to figure out what gear would give me Good street manners and ok rpms at 60 mph with a 26" tire. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BuckeyeDemon 211 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 4 minutes ago, lalojamesliz said: Am I correct thinking anything below 3k rpms with cause my converter to slip and heat up my trans fluid? I have a external cooler but I don't want to cruise at 65mph at 3k rpms and cause excessive engine wear unless that my only option with my current torque converter. i'm not a good person to get advice from for automatics. hopefully others can provide insight/rationale. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 Torque converters always slip until lockup is switched on or activated/allowed by TCM. You should be under 2400 RPM in OD with 3.75 gears, I'd have to do the math. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 On 5/29/2017 at 4:32 AM, barnett468 said: i thought you were going to use a nodular case and daytona pinion. i don't understand your question about rpm vs mph, however, with that much power it will be around a 6500 rpm engine so imo you don't want to have it spin less than at least 1800 rpm at 60. check this out. http://www.wallaceracing.com/gear-speed.php I think this 3.50 rear or possibly something a little higher sounds good Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stangnet33 88 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 Where's the factor for tire height ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lalojamesliz 56 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 4 hours ago, stangnet33 said: Where's the factor for tire height ? The tire I chose for now has a 25.91 height and I entered that but it's just not showing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
