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I have a Hobart 130 that goes down to 30 amps. I used it with flux core to do the floord, qtrs, outer wheel housings, tail light panel and so on. It works great. The other welder I had only went down to 60. At 60 amps with flux I was burning through sheet. At 30 I had no burn through. I am not a professional welder, but from what I gather flux doesn't burn hotter and you have a ton more spatter. But if the machine is adjustable enough you shouldn't have issues with sheet.

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I recently bought a Square wave 175 Tig rig that I have yet to use LOL, It came with massive amounts of filler materials for stainless and a bunch of odd alloys that I know I will never use LOL...Cant wait to get a project where I can get after it with this beast.

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Good info guys Thanks, yes the amp is dial, it just doesn't weld the sheet metal very good, if I turn it down so it won't burn through i get the popcorn welds, if I turn it up to get rid of the popcorn welds I have trouble with burn through, I think my old hobard might just be getting worn out

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I have found that when I have to crank mine up to keep from getting popcorn welds your referring to that I take it up hot enough to blow through, but when I do I make shorter faster welds....

Basically move the tip faster and decrease the duration of the trigger pull... I can usually hit it in rapid succession like this and make a pretty nice little weld on the thin stuff

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Miller and Lincoln both make great welders.  I have several Millers and I've never had any of them break.  I use my Miller 140 for auto body work in my garage.  I have never had any problems using it on the autoset unless I'm welding heavy stuff.  In fact the only glaring problem I have with the autoset is that I forget what the settings should be when I have to use a welder that doesn't have this technology.

 

david

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Good info guys Thanks, yes the amp is dial, it just doesn't weld the sheet metal very good, if I turn it down so it won't burn through i get the popcorn welds, if I turn it up to get rid of the popcorn welds I have trouble with burn through, I think my old hobard might just be getting worn out

You need to run enough amps to get good penetration for sticking the metal together and not getting too tall of a weld. You also need to have it adjusted low enough that you are not applying excess heat.

To help prevent blow through you can use a copper backing at the weld seam. The copper will resist the weld, will draw some of the heat out of the weld and provide a backing to prevent blow through.

You need to make a series of short welds of no more than an inch, skip a couple inches and then go again. Then cycle back and stitch in the areas between the welds giving cooling time between.

Welding is about practice, practice, practice.

Get some old bent fenders or hoods to practice on, you need to do some learning and get a feel for how the metal reacts to what you are doing.

 

Bob

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