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Tain

1969 mustang "Rusty"

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Hello Everyone, 
I bought a 1969 Mustang Grande at the ending of August with the help of my parents to be a father and son project. the carIhas a 302 2v which is now a 4v with a c4 trans and of rust from being outside in the elements for too long. there is rust on the quarters, front torque boxes, passenger side cowl, floors, roof, trunk lid, taillight panel, and hood and other places. I have removed the interior besides the lower dash. , and both quarters. so far I have removed the grill area, entire interior besides the lower dash, fenders, trunk lid, vinyl roof, door glass, and doors. I'm hoping to get it driving by 2020, so I can have it on my graduation from High school. 
Here is the car info 
Warranty Number: 9R01F163829
Year: 9 1969 
Plant: R San Jose, CA 
Body Series: 01 2 Door Hardtop 
Engine: F 302 2v V8 
Unit: 163829 163829 

Miscellaneous Vehicle Data

Body: 65E 2 Door Hardtop, Grande, Deluxe 
Color: I Lime Gold Metallic 
Trim: 1GA Dk. Ivy Gold Vinyl and Dk. Ivy Gold Hopsack Cloth, Grande Luxury
Date: 09D April 09, 1969 
D.S.O: 72 San Jose 
Axle: 3 2.79:1, Conventional 
Trans: W C4 Automatic 

9R01F163829

 
This is what the car looked like when i bought it

 

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You can have the inside and the front end /engine compartment sand blasted .I would not sand blast the body panels /fenders ,hood, roof ,quarters or trunk lid because it will warp the metal .They would be best paint stripped or sanded off .I am trying some rust remover that is supposed to be non toxic on some smaller pieces soon, i will post how well it works .

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That's not rust: that's called "patina".  *G*

 

Good luck with the car.  The rear quarters look problematic, but the rest of the seems reasonably solid.  You're going to have a lot of fun!  Enjoy.

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My 69 Coupe has spent most of if not all its life in NJ & had a lot of rust issues that related to a lot of sheet metal that needed to be replaced. I sanded all the paint off the car to get it to bare metal before doing the metal replacement. As stated above do NOT sand blast the outer body, either sand the paint off or use paint stripper to remove it. Good luck with your project.

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I would use stripper on it.  just dont use anything too harsh like sand blasting as that will ruin it.  Stripper with a scotch brite for the bulk of it, then a brass brush to get into the texture.  Mine came out great with a rattle can paint (NPD has the right color) carefully applied out side the car.

 

Good luck with the project.  Mine took 4 yrs, so get after it!

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here is what the car looks like right now. I am at a standstill because I need to start getting the sheet metal and a welder to start welding in new floors and footwells, tail panel, quarters, and a couple other thingsIMG_3406.thumb.JPG.07f2f16cddb81b8390e8a26635724cb3.JPGIMG_3405.thumb.JPG.979c1b540172930ac0322dd8d80dace0.JPGIMG_3404.thumb.JPG.792adb5ef912166cde58d82b2756edcc.JPGIMG_3410.thumb.JPG.34c7134a86d3436dcc47352ca3c42a08.JPGIMG_3409.thumb.JPG.c3f3ea3219622ea3e6499e4bb5ae0364.JPG

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Woah, tell me you're going to post more updates! The work that needs to be done on this car is massive, and it's impressive that you want to do that. You're also really, really young! I'm proud of you, keep up the good work!

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Well when I left for school, I might of broken or chipped the flywheel, or broken the starter because I had some tran fluid and metal bits on the garage floor. 

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Just for clarity, C4's or any auto trans has a flex plate, not a flywheel. A flywheel is used on standard transmissions.I doubt a chipped starter ring on the flex plate has caused your C4 to leak. Without inspecting and confirming where the metal bits and trans fluid originated, you're guessing. Most early trannys leak. Only way to be sure is to inspect it with the car raised and removing the inspection plate at the lower front of the C4 for the starter ring gear, and looking at the gasket area and anywhere lines, shifter rods or any thread accesses the interior of the trans. If it's not leaking a bunch or having starting issues, I just might leave it be. 

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Well There is good news and there’s bad news. The good news is I’ve gotten one of the quarter panels off. The bad news is I found more sheet metal that will need the be replaced. The one problem is the trunk corner where the taillight and quarter meet is screwed up. Thank you to Mike65 for the tracing of the upper “b” pillar. It will come in very handy when I have to replace it. 

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Wow, you really are taking on a major project here, looking at the roof it looks like the best way is to replace it, maybe look into a donor body, could be a lot cheaper in the long run. 

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On 8/20/2017 at 11:48 AM, Tain said:

One step forward 5 steps backwards. This car is testing my patience. Anyone know how to repair the windshield joint?  

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Deep breath.  Pick a place to start, and get to cutting back to good steel.  Replace and move to the next.  I know how you feel.

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Mate, good on you for taking on a project like this while still at school. You must have the gift. I think most of us have come across significant rust that wasn't expected and it can be sole destroying. I have two words of advice. Don't set a date to have it on the road. It makes it too tempting to cut corners and say 'I'll get back to that later' and treat it like eating an elephant. One bite at a time. Don't think about all the work you have to do. Just think about one task and when finished move on to the next.

if I was starting my project again I would have made a rotisserie. Welding and grinding upside down with a car on stands is the pits.

stick with it and your work will be something to be proud of.

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