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RPM

Welding Pot Metal Fender Extension

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Well, after years of contemplating tig welding a crack in an extra headlight bucket I have, I went ahead and done did it. I apologise that I only took after pics. I do know that the cleaner the metal the better the conditions for a nice weld. I did use acetone and gave it my best college try. There must be a lot of crap in pot metal because it sure welded like dirty oily aluminum.

 

I marked one pic with a sharpie where the original crack was on the top. Years ago I drilled the end of the crack top side, but the angle of the drill bit didn't follow the crack edge as shown from the back side pic. That pic shows the crack extends past the drill hole, which popped when welding causing a larger hole. I also ground a V in the top side of the crack before welding it. I was a bit leery of applying too much heat and causing a fallout of the base metal. The filler rod and be metal's melting point were different which made for an even more difficult weld.

 

I believe I'll run a filler less bead on the back side to finish the repair. All in all it wasn't too difficult, just more irritating than difficult. I certainly won't hesitate to do more welding on pot metal when needed.

 

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I have never used a product called Muggy Weld but the videos on their website are impressive. This stuff is designed for pot metal. Anyone have experience with Muggy Weld?   Dave R.

 

If this shows up with imogies or thumbnails they aren't mine.

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RPM, you got one side welded and looks okay.  Instead of "fusing" (welding without filler material) the back side, can you braze it and reduce damaging what you have successfully done?  I know brazing is not fusing metal together and it might not sound a cool as TIG welding, but in some cases it is suitable.

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RPM, you got one side welded and looks okay.  Instead of "fusing" (welding without filler material) the back side, can you braze it and reduce damaging what you have successfully done?  I know brazing is not fusing metal together and it might not sound a cool as TIG welding, but in some cases it is suitable.

There is a process where guys braze with a tig, so you don't lose the cool factor :-) Even using a gas lens and have some good stick out with the tungsten there's not a bunch of room in there for the torch and the filler rod.

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So I was feeling lucky after welding on the fender extension and decide to try my luck on the shaker ring which has a crack at the rear center ridge. Cleaned it up real nicely to bare metal and wiped with acetone. Set the tig to 25 amps.

 

This stuff has a fine line between, it welded and oh crap it melted

Oh ya, had a dime sized piece fall out. Oy! No bueno Paco. I'm guessing the mass of the extension helped it absorb the heat. Think I'll try some Steel Stik with something to reinforce it, maybe #3 rebar would work.

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So I was feeling lucky after welding on the fender extension and decide to try my luck on the shaker ring which has a crack at the rear center ridge. Cleaned it up real nicely to bare metal and wiped with acetone. Set the tig to 25 amps.

 

 

Oh ya, had a dime sized piece fall out. Oy! No bueno Paco. I'm guessing the mass of the extension helped it absorb the heat. Think I'll try some Steel Stik with something to reinforce it, maybe #3 rebar would work.

you can sometimes use aluma rod and a torch for welding aluminum.

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I have never used a product called Muggy Weld but the videos on their website are impressive. This stuff is designed for pot metal. Anyone have experience with Muggy Weld?   Dave R.

 

If this shows up with imogies or thumbnails they aren't mine.

I have used Muggy Weld Super Alloy 1 to repair broken studs to convertible well trim. It works great. Just practice a bit first.

http://muggyweld.com/super-alloy-1

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