~ 1969 Building the mighty 428CJ : Tips and Tricks

[1969_Mach1 333]

Instead of modifying your original oil pan, save it, and use something like this from Canton Racing Products.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ctr-15-800/overview/make/ford

[Raven R code 281]

It would be easier to just modify what I have. $1 piece of metal....bend the edges...drill the holes and spot weld. Easy peezy.

[barnett468 418]

It certainly won't hurt anything and it could only possibly help so why not if you want to.

[Raven R code 281]

Ok......Been 28 yrs since original finned aluminum valve covers have been on the motor. I know the twist-on breather cap goes on the driver side cover.....what goes on the passenger side cover? Anyone have pictures

 

Dave

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Your PCV goes on the right side cover stuck in a rubber grommet. Sorry no pic.

[Raven R code 281]

Your PCV goes on the right side cover stuck in a rubber grommet. Sorry no pic.

I thought that might be the case , but I remember what twist into the cover .

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Stock covers have a round hole for pcv and aftermarket covers (most) have a twist hole for breather cap.

You may have to make an adapter for the twist in like I did, I took an old drivers side cap and removed the cover and modified it for pcv placement.

Or work at installing an oversized rubber ring to hold the valve.

[jholmes217 65]

Ok......Been 28 yrs since original finned aluminum valve covers have been on the motor. I know the twist-on breather cap goes on the driver side cover.....what goes on the passenger side cover? Anyone have pictures

 

Dave

This is what you want Dave.  You may need to trim or shave some rubber to get it to fit good.  http://www.cjponyparts.com/valve-cover-grommet-pcv-1965-1985/p/PCVG2/

[Raven R code 281]

This is what you want Dave. You may need to trim or shave some rubber to get it to fit good. http://www.cjponyparts.com/valve-cover-grommet-pcv-1965-1985/p/PCVG2/

Thanks Jeff ! That does look familiar. I think there may have been a white disk on top( where the hose goes in.)

 

Thanks, Dave

[Raven R code 281]

This is what you want Dave.  You may need to trim or shave some rubber to get it to fit good.  http://www.cjponyparts.com/valve-cover-grommet-pcv-1965-1985/p/PCVG2/

Thanks Jeff ! That does look familiar. I think there may have been a white disk on top( where the hose goes in.)

 

Thanks, Dave

[jholmes217 65]

Thanks Jeff ! That does look familiar. I think there may have been a white disk on top( where the hose goes in.)

 

Thanks, Dave

Probably this?  http://www.cjponyparts.com/decal-pcv-ring-428cj-scj-1968-1969/p/DEC983/

[Raven R code 281]

What are people using on the threads of the upper left water pump mounting bolt? This is the only mounting lot that threads into the water jacket. Pipe dope(special kind) or maybe teflon? I didn't know about this the last time I painted the motor and the spray out of hot coolant made a mess of the engine and engine compartment.

thanks!

[Brian Conway 264]

ATV silicone sealent

[1969_Mach1 333]

I've had good luck with Permatex Aviation Form A Gasket sealant.  It's a thick brown liquid in a small container.  An application brush is attached to the inside of the cap.  On the container it states it's also for threads.  I've used it on screw in rocker arm studs and head bolts that go into water passages.  So far, I haven't had any issues.

There is also liquid Teflon for automotive use.  But it's better suited for pipe threads.

[Caseyrhe 650]

You could just get a stainless steel bolt and paint the head

[Raven R code 281]

Getting back into the swing of things....

does anyone know what type of socket or fitting to fit on the oil pump shaft so I can put a drill on it to prime the oil system?

 

Dave

[barnett468 418]

1 hour ago, Raven R code said:

Getting back into the swing of things....

does anyone know what type of socket or fitting to fit on the oil pump shaft so I can put a drill on it to prime the oil system?

 

Dave

one option is a long 6 point 1/4" socket with 1/4" drive and extension and tape the extension to the drive if needed. i usually prime for round 10 seconds the first time then rotate the crank 180 degrees then prime for 5 or 6 seconds then rotate crank 180 then prime, then rotate 180 then prime then rotate 180 back to where i started. this helps insure that all the lifters are full or close to it.

you will need a good drill to do it with and the drill will likely try to twist your hand off when the system builds pressure so be ready and be careful.

 

[Caseyrhe 650]

I used an old distrib shaft, and it will try to take your wrist off

[barnett468 418]

don't forget that it turns counter clockwise.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

An old distributor shaft works best of all . A socket can come off and is a total pain in the butt to try ro fish it out ,maybe epoxy it to a long extension ,but i would waste a distributer for the shaft first . I have a couple of shafts for small block and big block i keep on hand ,grease the end where it fits in the block at the bottom so it doesnt gall the block 

[barnett468 418]

5 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

A socket can come off and is a total pain in the butt to try ro fish it out ,maybe epoxy it to a long extension

the socket will not come off if it is taped on. i have done this literally over 100 times and learned the hard way. i had to fish one out with those flexible 3 finger pullers once. not everyone has an old distributor shaft laying around. the epoxy wont stick well to chrome and will crack from the force because the socket will wobble slightly on the extension.

 

[Caseyrhe 650]

What really stinks is when the driveshaft pulls up out of the pump and drops in the pan. I have used the washer on the shaft ever since