Gear Vendors Installed

[MN69Grande 203]

The local Gear Vendor dealer wrapped up the install of a used GV unit I bought in March last week.   I thought I'd put some notes out there for anyone interested and I'll update again after driving the car with the system in the spring.

 

Buying a Gear Vendor unit used is a gamble.  Most of those I found were coming out of race cars or old motor homes.  Many had been bought and resold a few times and you have no idea how old they are.  Also most aren’t complete, either missing the controller, the transmission adapter, wiring, or all of the above.  Also to note in a 1969 mustang you will want to use a 90 degree speedometer cable adapter and there is another adapter to get the cable from the GV to match with the old Mustang cable.  If you buy new from Gear Vendors everything you need is in the kit.  However it is pricey just below $3000.

 

I found one unit that was complete with the major componets that had been used in a hotrodded Fox Body for 1/2 the price of new.  So it had the control box, all the wiring and switches, and the correct transmission adapter for a C4.  I had it inspected and everything looked good.  The one weird thing is it has a sticker on the Gear Vendor drive indicating it is about 8 years old and then when I worked with tech support later on it turned out the controller was 20+ years old so who knows.  It was probably also pulled from a motor home and then sent in for remanufacture.

 

A couple notes on getting parts. The local rep said if you have one they can use as a core GV charges $900 to rebuild it, new controllers cost $200, wiring harnesses/switches $175, and tunnel adapters run $600 or so depending on the transmission.  The price ranges I saw a when looking at used units included a lot out there with no adapter or no controller for $400-$500.  So even rebuilding it and buying some of the other components you could come out ahead over the $3000.

 

Back of the napkin math -- buying the cheapest units out there $400, a new adapter $600, new controller $200, new harness $175, new gaskets/shims/bolts $27, adapters $140, and rebuilding the unit $900.  That would theoretically be $2442.  But if you saw one for $1200 with a C6 adapter (which seems to be the most common) and you have a C6.  Then assuming the unit is good even if you needed everything else you’d get the unit for about 60% of new.  So sometimes the gamble is worth it.  Mine turned out to be a good find so far.  I’ll know more after next summer.

 

I did end up buying a new controller and harness because I burnt out the controller with a short.  I didn't get the wiring guide with the unit and thought I was smart enough to do it using a couple blogs for reference.  That was dumb I suggest calling up GV and get a wiring guide.  I'm still ahead of buying new unit cost wise but I’m kicking myself a little.  So the unit was probably OK when received.  The new controller also required an updated wiring harness.  

 

The GV unit fits the 1969 mustang pretty good.  It will depend on the Engine size, mounts, and transmission you have how it fits but it should.  There were several things they had to do:

1.)     We had a 1/4 inch clearance issue at the top of tunnel but they were able to modify the transmission mount to solve the problem.  They basically drilled out the holes ¼ inch higher on the mount then reinforced it with some new steel to make up for the material removed.

2.)      Next they couldn’t shorten the drive shaft I have because it is made with two steel tubes filled with rubber between them.  So a new drive shaft cost $100 more than shortening the existing one ($200 total). 

3.)     We needed the 90 degree speedometer cable adapter $120.

4.)     We also needed an adapter to mate the 2 different types of speedometer cables $20. 

5.)     New Gaskets and installation shims for the GV unit $27.

6.)     You may or may not need to modify your exhaust for clearance

 

So if you want to try to do it yourself just keep those things in mind.  The installation process doesn’t look too hard.  I did read up on it and watch a few youtube videos.  I just didn’t have the time to do it myself and I didn’t want the parts rusting in the garage all winter.  The process basically entails pulling the tail shaft off you transmission, installing the Gear Vendors adaptor, shimming the shaft between the trans and GV, then bolting the GV in and filling it with fluid, wire it up, and get a shorter drive shaft.

 

At the same time I put in the gear vendors I also swapped in a True Track Rear End with a 3.55 ratio.  The old one was the ole wonder wheel 2.80.  I haven’t driven the car enough to really get a feel for the new set up.  The way the GV works is that in Auto mode with a Muscle car adapter it shifts through 1^st, 2^nd, and into 3^rd normally then at a certain RPM shifts into Overdrive.  In Manual mode you flip the GV splitting on and so you could have 6 gear combinations.

 

I didn’t get much time to drive but in general I’m now running higher RPMs at Mid range but it should be similar from 50 mph onwards.  I also had almost no gas so I couldn’t really test out the true track either.  Now it’s winter in MN and I’ll have to wait probably the better part of 5 months to get to have any real fun with the car.

 

Now real quick why did I go with the GV over the AOD conversion.  Well I have read people have done cheap conversions.  But I'm not really a fabricator and I didn't want a standard AOD as they aren't as strong as a C4 (mine was recent rebuilt and to handle more power).  So looking at conversion kits $550 at CJPP, a built AOD from say Silverfox starts at $1650, add in a new bell housing $200-$400 (maybe this cheaper at a junkyard or comes with the trans I don't know), flexplate $100, and torque converter $150 and you are with in $500 of the price a new unit.  Both need new drive shafts and take a bit of work to put in.  

 

Now if you get a junkyard AOD or pull it from a beater for a couple hundred and have it rebuilt for $500 - $600 you could save more.  But would it handle the power (GVs are rated to 1200 hp) and shift as nicely?  Also I can put the car back to stock and sell the GV for $1000 - $1500 even after running it for years.  So that was my rational for better or worse.  Since I got mine for around 60% the cost of new I'm pretty happy with conversion at the moment, at least till I get time driving (I won't include the parts as part of the price that I had to replace due to being an idiot).

 

A Few pics:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[MAC390 327]

looking at this option for my car 4.30 locker and C6

[moodster 55]

Lots of good insight, thanks for sharing.  I've been considering this option if I ever change from the 2.8 rear.  How come your tunnel looks wet but your engine/transmission look so clean?

 

david

[MN69Grande 203]

Lots of good insight, thanks for sharing.  I've been considering this option if I ever change from the 2.8 rear.  How come your tunnel looks wet but your engine/transmission look so clean?

 

david

 

Do to previous and zealous use of a power washer (I seem learn things best  through hard knocks and screw-ups)  the seal for the selector shaft in my C4 was shot and the rear seal was only so-so because of rust on the yoke.  So I was flinging transmission fluid all over the place when I drove.  It didn't affect the drive-ability of the car I just had to add a 1/2 quart of fluid every 3 months.  But it makes a mess and a little smoke at times.

 

If you look at the last photo you can see above the transmission pan the transmission is wet there too.  The tail housing is actually a freshly cleaned GV Adapter so it didn't have any residual fluid on it and the mounting bracket had just come out of the tank for cleaning.

 

While the car was in the Transmission shop (Proven Force for anyone in the Minneapolis area) I had the selector shaft seals replaced.  The GV got a new rear seal and has a different Yoke.  So as of this morning I looked under the car at the drip pan and it was dry!  First time in the last 2 years.  Now I just have a couple small leaks that drip once per week or so on the power steering (need a new return hose) and oil sending unit (I probably just need to tighten the unit).

[RPM 1,190]

Thanks for the write up. Nice to know the real story on these.

[cavboy78 28]

just looks like some rust prevention up there in the land of salty roads!

[bryonbush 85]

I looked into this set up and now after seeing this, I'm glad I didn't. While the 4R70 eats a lot of power, install was very easy and with a rebuild + controller I'm in it for $1300. Since my odometer rolled over in June, I've put 3400 miles on it. That's not including the past year and a half and the first if this year. Looking forward to reading more updates over next year to see how you like it after some more drive time.

[MN69Grande 203]

Quick update for anyone who cares.  Took the car out for over an hour today.  I LOVE the gear vendor.  At least with it matched to 3.55 True Track gears.  They say the goal is to keep the car in the power band as long as possible and that is exactly what it does.  In auto it shifts at 45.  So if your into my car shifts at 20 into second then the GV at 45 and into third some where in the mid-high 60s.  My RPMs stayed between 2300 - 3500 until I let off the gas then dropped at 65 to ~2600 RPMs.  It was a blast.  So I have to say another thing to consider when getting a GV over AOD or other trans is how/when it all shifts.  This set up is so much fun.  I came back in the house with the biggest grin on my face.  

I haven't played with the manual mode but you do have almost full control of kicking the GV on and off.  It won't do it in 1st because you need to be over 35mph but you can cycle through 2 - 2l - 3 -3l.  In auto mine skips 3 or 2l depending on how hard I'm pushing and I'm fine with that.  Compared to cars I drove in the 80's with stock AOD this was way better.  I'm sure if you put the money in to get a Sliver fox AOD or other performance built one it would be as good but then you wouldn't be saving any money. 

So my conclusion is this.  If you want OD for mileage/limit wear tear on your car or for a little performance to offset  a bigger set of gears get one from a yard and have it rebuilt.  You can probably do it all for 1100-1400.  If you have high horsepower needs or are going get a specialized AOD with updated shift pattern and all the trimmings the cost will be similar between the the GV/C4 and the modified AOD.  I would recommend the GV.  It does and amazing job, I've even read where they'll burn you controls specific to your requirements if you want.

This is going to be a great summer!

[barnett468 418]

 

If they lowered your trans to get clearance, you need to measure your drive shaft angle to make sure it is still within an acceptable range.

 

 

[MN69Grande 203]

3 hours ago, barnett468 said:

 

If they lowered your trans to get clearance, you need to measure your drive shaft angle to make sure it is still within an acceptable range.

 

 

Yeah it was done at an authorized dealer who is a specialist in drive-line up here.  They do a number of them a year.  I was really happy with their work.  They had to lower the trans just a 1/4 inch or so I don't fully remember.  Brand new custom drive shaft and all.  There was 0 vibration today.