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rays69mach1

69 351W aluminum intake manifold C9OX-9424-A will it fit?

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Every time I think about installing an aluminum intake on my Mach1 the height of the carb is always an issue because it has a shaker hood.  This intake was sold by Ford back in the day but made by some other company,  Is anyone here running this on their car with a shaker hood?  Any info would be helpful.  Thanks,  Ray

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Measure the heigh of the carb mounting to where the intake bolts are. Then compair the measurements from the two intakes.

Keep in mind that often the replacement intakes are a little taller as they assume you will be using a holly carb with the EGR port so you will be leaving off the original carb spacer plate so compair the height of the original intake with the spacer plate and without

 

Bob

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Some had a Shelby script, some had a Ford Script, some had no script.  I don't know how the part numbers designated the script.  Everybody focusses on the height of the carb pad.  Nobody notices the position of the carb pad relative to the front and rear of the intake.  On this intake the carb pad is moved forward, guessing 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches.  Not saying it won't fit.  But, it is another aspect to consider.  I've been down that road with many aftermarket intake manifolds.  Two air cleaner issues can occur depending on the intake manifold.  1) Carb pad moved forward can cause air cleaner to distributor and/or monte carlo bar fitment issues.  Carb pad raised up can obviously cause hood to air cleaner fitment issues.

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Hum it didn't post the pic ! Going by Mustang tech Ford casting ID ,it shows 942-A as aluminum 351W with Shelby script ,doesn't say other wise .Not sure they would have carried three different intakes with the same part number as the number ID's the particular part

 

Aluminum Shelby logo 351W-9424-A Ok351W 4V Aluminum Shelby logo Buddy Bar 351W-9424-A

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Some had a Shelby script, some had a Ford Script, some had no script.  I don't know how the part numbers designated the script.  Everybody focusses on the height of the carb pad.  Nobody notices the position of the carb pad relative to the front and rear of the intake.  On this intake the carb pad is moved forward, guessing 1-1/4 to 1-1/2 inches.  Not saying it won't fit.  But, it is another aspect to consider.  I've been down that road with many aftermarket intake manifolds.  Two air cleaner issues can occur depending on the intake manifold.  1) Carb pad moved forward can cause air cleaner to distributor and/or monte carlo bar fitment issues.  Carb pad raised up can obviously cause hood to air cleaner fitment issues.

Thanks for pointing that out.  I never thought these manifolds would shift the carb forward.  That's going to be an issue with my shaker hood. Going to remove the air cleaner assembly tomorrow and start taking measurements. Will let everyone know what I find.  Ray

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I removed my shaker hood assembly and took some measurements.  The aluminum manifold has the same front to rear carb position as the stock cast iron one however on the aluminum one the carb will sit about an 1 1/2 higher then the stock one.  On the set up I have now ( see pics ) the PVC plate and extra thick 1/4 gasket is about an 1 1/2.  Since the Holley carb has a PCV port on the back that is currently plugged I'm assuming that the PCV plate can be removed and everything will work with my shaker hood scoop. There is a hole in the back of the aluminum intake for the power brake/ modulator hoses so that should all work.  Looks to me that it's all good to go.  If I'm missing something please let me know.  Ray

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Good, looks like it will fit.  You don't need the carb spacers on the aluminum intake manifold.  Unless, for some reason, there is some issue with the accelerator pump contacting the top of the intake manifold.

 

I have looked for one of those intakes off and on for several years.  Every time I found one for sale the gasket surfaces at the water passages have been severely eroded.

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Good, looks like it will fit.  You don't need the carb spacers on the aluminum intake manifold.  Unless, for some reason, there is some issue with the accelerator pump contacting the top of the intake manifold.

 

I have looked for one of those intakes off and on for several years.  Every time I found one for sale the gasket surfaces at the water passages have been severely eroded.

The gasket surface at the water passages looks good at the front but there is some minor corrosion at the blocked off ones at the rear.  I'll post some photos later today.  Ray

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When I look at top view pictures of the stock 4 barrel intake and then the aluminum one you have it looks like the carb pad on your aluminum intake is moved forward about 3/4 to 1 inch.  This is just comparing the position of the carb pad to the center intake manifold bolts.  Might not be enough difference to cause any issues.  Just something I noticed.   Here is a stock one I saw on EBay.  Look closely at the relationship between the carb pad and the center intake manifold bolts.  http://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-Mustang-351W-Windsor-4V-Intake-9A13-Manifold-Carb-Autolite-4300-C9OE-9425-E-/131967791030?hash=item1eb9e4afb6:g:kpsAAOSwh2xX~ZU0&vxp=mtr

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From the pics, yes it looks off a bit. But that could be the camera angle, or just the pic. Shaker position varies a lot car to car. My brother's bone stock 69 R code sits way back compared to others I've seen.

 

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I'd mount it w/o the carb spacer and check for fit. If the engine needs moved back, the Ron Morris style adjustable motor mounts should work for you. There are 1/2 and 1" drop mounts also available.

 

I got lucky with the fore aft position of the 428 shaker on my 351w and Stealth intake. I did have to lower it with adjustable motor mounts and removal of the carb spacer.

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It will probably work, but I think those pictures are fairly correct in what they depict.  Looking at the unequal runner lengths on the stock intake is another indicator.

 

The for and aft carb pad position on the Weiand Stealth is very close to, if not the same as stock.  The Edelbrock Performer RPM is moved a little forward from stock.  The Edelbrock Performer, Torker II, Victor Jr., the Offenhouser intakes, and the Holley Street Dominator have the carb pad moved significantly forward.  Yes, I have tried many intakes on my 351W and fought air cleaner fitment with either the distributor or the hood.

 

Way back in the early 1980's when there were few air cleaner options, my older brother had a Holley Street Dominator on a 351W in his 1969 Mach 1.  He gave up trying to fit an air cleaner and drove it for about 5 years without an air cleaner.  Then sold it that way.

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Now that it looks like it will fit I was wondering what to do with the finish on this manifold.  It has been sand blasted and has a very rough surface finish.  I don't want to paint it Ford blue but if left raw aluminum it'll start looking pretty ugly after a while.  Any ideas?

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I've seen some painted with a dull aluminum finish that look like natural aluminum.  Don't paint it with a clear coat of any kind, it will yellow with time and engine heat. There is powder coating.  But you have to select a color.  Whatever paint you use it will eventually burn at the heat crossover passage area if the passage is not blocked off.

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I've seen some painted with a dull aluminum finish that look like natural aluminum.  Don't paint it with a clear coat of any kind, it will yellow with time and engine heat. There is powder coating.  But you have to select a color.  Whatever paint you use it will eventually burn at the heat crossover passage area if the passage is not blocked off.

Thanks for warning me about the clear coat because I was thinking about using that.  Maybe I'll look into high heat silver paint.  Ray

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Is your shakre  upper a real for Ford piece or a reproduction? I ask because on my Shaker uppper (from Ford) it has adjustments to move the Fined upper forward or backward in the hood cutout.

Jag

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Eastwood makes a great Aluminum paint that will clean up those imperfections.   It is called "Aluma-Blast".   Great product.   I have used it for many years, and I am very happy with the durability of the finish.  Just make sure after sandblasting that you remove all the residual stuff with Acetone.  Don't use a degreaser like Purple Power, it will eat up your aluminum.

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Is your shakre  upper a real for Ford piece or a reproduction? I ask because on my Shaker uppper (from Ford) it has adjustments to move the Fined upper forward or backward in the hood cutout.

Jag

Mine is the real deal and I forgot about the adjustments for the scoop.  Thanks for reminding me that they are there. I had the whole assembly apart last winter and saw how they work.  Thanks, Ray

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The scoop itself can be moved fore and aft & left to right at the scoop/mid plate attaching points. The air cleaner base sits on the carb and is not adjustable and why the base is different for different engines.

You should have no issues.

Install a sacrificial radiator cap to help with the aluminum corrosion.

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