1 wire to 3G alternator

[Tenthumbs 2]

My 69 Fastback has the one wire upgrade - it was this way when I bought the car so I know nothing about the alternator or how it was wired. Thinking about electric fans, stereo upgrade to include amps, guages, and some other miscellaneous improvements that will tax the electrical system hence the interest in a 3G system. Also want to upgrade from a single V belt to a serpentine style belt to get the benefit of the new alternator.  

What is the best way to go from a one wire to a 3G system? Oh, my current ammeter works but I will eventually change to a voltmeter so losing the ammeter is not a huge deal.  

 

Finally, I did a search for 3G conversion on the site and everything that comes up is a conversion from an externally regulated unit and while they are helpful, they don't fully answer the conversion question.

[ashleesmach1 28]

I not sure why you are considering this.  Most one wire systems are already strong enough to handle what you have and more. What's the output of the one wire alt?

If you do this it seems your taking a step backwards. Of course it's your car, you do what want.

My advise is to to replace the alt, if it's not strong enough, with a better one and be done with it.

On a one wire system you have just one wire. The voltage regulator, trigger voltage and everything are all on the the alternator. no extra wiring. Now the 3G  has 5-6 wire connections. In my car I have a 100 amp alternator that connects to the factory harness. Cool, but it will not last forever and I was given a free 3G for another car. My thing was, that if my 100 amp alternator ever dies I could install the 3G and be done with it, with out spending a ton of money. 

Yes, 3G is a little cheaper but not easier. Stay with what you have, just upgrade to better alternator. It's easy! Good luck!

[MN69Grande 203]

There was a thread on this topic recently.  You have a few options.  

1.)  get a new and/or bigger 1 wire alternator.  If you do some googling I saw some articles about 80 and 100 amp ford alternators in the early 80's that bolt right in.  

2.) You can get a 3g alternator and splice it into the stock wiring.  

3.) Or you could buy a conversion kit that replaces the external regulator and the wiring harness at the amp.  PA Performance kits are available at CJPony parts and other places for this conversion.  They run about $35.  

 

However if you go with a bigger alternator get a bigger charging line.  6 or 4 gauge otherwise you are creating a hazard by putting to many amps through the stock wiring.  I'd also recommend a fuse-able link, circuit breaker, or fuse.

 

I did the conversion with the PA Performance kit.  It was an easy Saturday afternoon project.  I used an alternator I got new for $60 for a 97 Windstar, a charging wire from summit with a mega fuse, and a new bolt and nut as the alternator I got didn't have threads in the mounting like the old ones.  All in all I was into it for less the $150, it's completely reversible, and it works great. 

[danno 128]

I am kind of with Ashlees on this.  I have done a "load analysis" on a car with a factory alternator, and the audio amplifiers and brighter lights can be taken care of fine with the old factory setup.  I have the huge audio amps in my car, along with AC, halogen lights, power windows, and a factory alternator.  Been driving with it for 10 years without a problem. I do not have one, but an electric fan can put that into question.  If you have an after market 1 wire alternator, then the odds are it has a lot more amperage, probably 100 amps.  100 amps is plenty to run everything you could ever need, unless you do something like electric power steering. 

 

A couple things to also consider.  Do you have AC?  The Factory AC clutch takes a lot of amps, but aftermarket compressor clutches are a lot less. So consider if you do not have AC or have an aftermarket AC compressor.  And one more thing.  If you switch to LED lights, they take about 10% of the amps that conventional lights take.  The only place the lights make a significant difference is in the headlights, though.  So if you ever switch to LED headlights, that completely removes  the need for anything larger than a factory alternator, no matter what other gadgets you have on your electrical system.

 

But I could also understand wanting to switch.  Just take your time to do it, there is no hurry.  By the time you make the switch, maybe the harness you need will be available.  It is also possible midlife would make one for you.

[ashleesmach1 28]

So Just Curious, what did you decided to do?

[Tenthumbs 2]

Most likely going to a 3G style....the current set up just doesn't seem right.  The wire that is supposed to go from the back of the alternator to the starter solenoid doesn't...it disappears into a bundle of other wires.  I am going to put a meter on tomorrow to see if it is even charging.

 

I am also contemplating electric power steering so the extra volts will help

[ashleesmach1 28]

You will not get extra volts, you will need more amps! A 3G does not produce anymore volts than any other alternator!

 

OK, to check the alt with a voltmeter:

Measure voltage at the battery posts with everything off including engine.

Battery should measure 12.6 - 13 v dc.

Crank motor, then measure alt output at battery posts. Should read no more than 14.6 vdc.

Then with engine running turn everything on Ie. radio and all it's components, fan blower motor, headlights on with high beams, electric cooling fans, and everything else on. Rev motor to about 2500 rpm. This will load down the alt, but the voltage should not drop below 14 v dc.

Good luck 

[GypsyR 32]

One reason I like 3G's is their exceptional ability to charge at lower RPM's. Something no older Ford alternator (or Delco converted to 1-wire) has ever been good at. Since you only actually need power steering at low vehicle and engine speeds, like in a parking lot, having such an alternator on a vehicle with electric power steering is pretty good thinking. Electric power steering doesn't actually draw THAT much power but still...

If there is something on my car that I'm not particularly happy about, that is the ONLY reason I need to yank it off in favor of something I like better.