Back glass leaking around clips.....still leaks after 3rd attempt

[buening 63]

Anyone here that has done fastback rear glass have any tips on getting it sealed up around these clips?  I pry the clips open and squirt the 3m bedding & glazing in and around the clips, as well as the channel between the clips.  I water test it before I put the molding on and its all sealed up, then install the molding and the stupid thing leaks in numerous locations, mostly the clips on the sides of the glass (not the top or bottom sides). The water comes in from behind the quarter sail panels and then runs out onto the package tray, so I know its not the seal between the glass and the rubber weatherstripping.  The weatherstripping is the better Daniel Carpenter rubber.  Thoughts? I've removed and redone the bedding & glazing 3 times and still leaks, so I'm obviously consistent in doing it incorrectly. I'm particular in cleaning up the body lip so that no old compound is left, so adhesion shouldn't be an issue.

[MikeStang 247]

Step AWAY FROM THE BEDDING AND GLAZING COMPOUND for starters.... That stuff is utter Crap IMHO.

A guy I know that owned a restoration shop for a very long time turned me on to some stuff years ago.

Its Called CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. Its made by C.R Laurence Co. Inc.... Its Black, messy as hell and will do the trick the first time... Just be sure to tape up about 2" of the glass at the weather stripping and 2-4" on the paint around the window...When I say this stuff is messy that is an understatement HaHa...Wear Gloves also because its super stringy.

Here is a link, you can get it on Amazon.

 

https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-CRL7708-Windshield-Sealant/dp/B000KZWKE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406587&sr=8-1&keywords=crl+windshield+and+body+sealant

If link no workie go to Amazon and put in CRL Windshield and Body Sealant, you wanting the 7708 Stuff...Go ahead and get 4 tubes

 

 

 

 

Here is how my buddy showed me to do it.

 

Mark All your studs for the clips with some blue painters tape, which you should already have all around the glass on the body, then take a magic marker and make a line on the tape that's dead in line with your studs, extend the line to the edge of the tape in case you get sealer on it you will still be able to locate the line.

 

Install weather strip on glass after its been warmed in the sun for a bit, you could also warm it via a hair dryer or heat gun, just be careful.... Load the channel in the weather stripping with some good poly rope and set the glass in place, then have buddy hold glass in place from the outside, while you pull rope from inside to lip the seal over.... Im sure you know this already but figured I would relay it anyhow.

 

Next step... take the CRL sealer and cut the tip off close to the end, don't want a big gaping hole in the 1st tube, just a nice 1/4" thick bead.... now from the outside of the car, insert the tip between the weather strip and the glass and start squeezing. Its helpful to have someone help hold the rubber seal up for you so you can easily see how much your putting in. You MAY start to see a very small amount come out on the inside of the glass in the car...when you see it start moving working your way around the glass till you get back where you started. 1 Tube should make this pass, Possibly 1 & 1/4 tube...Really poke the tip down into the channel, don't worry about hurting the weather strip by lifting it up a good bit, I haven't torn one yet.

 

Next Step.....

If you went to a 2nd tube cut the tip a little bit bigger and start filling the space between the body and the weather stripping.... poke the tip down in there a bit and start squeezing till you see a little bit start to push out inside of the car...When you see it, start moving around the glass till you run out...load next tube and repeat all the way around... Be careful not to fill the channel up all the way tho...you still got clips to install.

 

Next step...

Install clips... I use a 1x4 board with a bunch of tape wrapped around then end and ALWAYS try to have new clips on hand, prefer to have NOS Clips if possible...Pop all the clips in place now and go ahead and add more sealer all the way around. Your basically topping it off and paying a lil special attention to around the clips.... Keep in mind that you still have stainless to install and if you fill it up 2 much you will have a tough time getting it on.

If I recall the last one I did we left the sealer just even with the top of the weatherstrip... Now just go back and smooth it all down with a rubber gloved finger tip and clean up all your mess off the glass and the car...

Install Stainless 24hrs later and your good to go.

This stuff doesn't get hard like silicone or anything else so putting stainless on is easy.

 

This method has worked on multiple occasions for me and should work just fine for you as well.... Hope I didn't forget anything

[MikeStang 247]

Are you waiting to install the stainless till the following day with your Glazing and bedding compound, or are you doing it right away?

This may be the problem...We have always waited 24hrs

[LoneWolf2U 136]

Glazing/bedding compound is for the front windshield only.

Use the tube sealant for rear window or glass with rubber seals.

Or you will have a leak appear at some time later.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I lay down some of the black 3M caulking strips in the window channel before the glass and rubber goes in ,you have to be careful not to wipe it off the channel lip as you install the glass or you will have a leak .I usually lay two strips side by side .This is how ford did it .Do it on a hot day and press down on the rubber to seat it in the strips and you will not have a leak .you can also use the bedding compound after to fill the gap 

[MikeStang 247]

Ridge Im assuming your talking about how you do the front glass?

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

No ,the rear glass .the front is held in with window ribbon or rope . If you have taken out a window that has never been removed ,none glue in ,you will find what looks like the 3M caulking strips the full length of the channel ,at least on the San Jose cars ,and then a caulking or bedding compound between the rubber and the body .That is how my CJ was and most cars i have worked on with rubber holding the glass in.However i have seen what looks like grease ,kind of yellowish color between the rubber and the body ,and it is very slimy and messy .If you have something between the rubber and the bottom of the channel /body you should not get a leak .

[MikeStang 247]

Ah so your saying the caulking strips are put into the channel of the weather stripping and then put on the glass, then the ropw is lipped in and pulled out to flip the seal around then bedding compound is used to fill the space between the body and the rubber seal?

[buening 63]

Well this has certainly caught me off guard.  Everywhere I've read (forums, online mag articles, etc) its stated to use glazing and bedding compound for the rear glass. This stuff is horribly messy as well, and I would say its like roofing tar almost. Heating it up seems to make it flow better.  Mikestang, any idea how the CRL stuff compares to glazing & bedding?

 

It almost sounds like Ridge puts the strips on the body channel, and then drops the glass/weatherstripping into place and does the rope trick.  I would think the bottom lip of the weatherstripping would move the caulk strip around when you pull the rope, since the W/S rests on the body channel until you pull the rope and pull the W/S over the body channel lip.

[buening 63]

Outside of the CRL stuff, my process was pretty much the same.  I used 3m 8693 Urethane between the glass and the rubber, and glazing n bedding in the body channel adjacent to the rubber. This was based on everything I read. I have been installing the clips before filling the body channel with goop, because it seems like it creates an air pocket if I install the clips after.  Maybe I need to do a thin layer first, install clips, and then to the "filling" after.

 

Also, the glazing and bedding seems to skin over and makes installing trim difficult if you pack the channel too full. The CRL sounds like it doesn't even skin over, so may work better with the molding.  I've tried letting the G&B set up for a few days and then install trim (which ended up in some denting of trim), and also installed the trim immediately after applying the G&B (much easier to install trim, but no way to water-test it). The time I let it set up, it didn't have a single leak until I installed the molding....which opens up the clips and likely found a way through the clips and channel.

 

Needless to say my multiple process experiments haven't worked and figured I'd see what the heck people on here do, because somethings gotta eventually work!

 

Step AWAY FROM THE BEDDING AND GLAZING COMPOUND for starters.... That stuff is utter Crap IMHO.
A guy I know that owned a restoration shop for a very long time turned me on to some stuff years ago.
Its Called CRL Windshield and Body Sealant. Its made by C.R Laurence Co. Inc.... Its Black, messy as hell and will do the trick the first time... Just be sure to tape up about 2" of the glass at the weather stripping and 2-4" on the paint around the window...When I say this stuff is messy that is an understatement HaHa...Wear Gloves also because its super stringy.
Here is a link, you can get it on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/C-R-LAURENCE-CRL7708-Windshield-Sealant/dp/B000KZWKE4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474406587&sr=8-1&keywords=crl+windshield+and+body+sealant
If link no workie go to Amazon and put in CRL Windshield and Body Sealant, you wanting the 7708 Stuff...Go ahead and get 4 tubes




Here is how my buddy showed me to do it.

Mark All your studs for the clips with some blue painters tape, which you should already have all around the glass on the body, then take a magic marker and make a line on the tape that's dead in line with your studs, extend the line to the edge of the tape in case you get sealer on it you will still be able to locate the line.

Install weather strip on glass after its been warmed in the sun for a bit, you could also warm it via a hair dryer or heat gun, just be careful.... Load the channel in the weather stripping with some good poly rope and set the glass in place, then have buddy hold glass in place from the outside, while you pull rope from inside to lip the seal over.... Im sure you know this already but figured I would relay it anyhow.

Next step... take the CRL sealer and cut the tip off close to the end, don't want a big gaping hole in the 1st tube, just a nice 1/4" thick bead.... now from the outside of the car, insert the tip between the weather strip and the glass and start squeezing. Its helpful to have someone help hold the rubber seal up for you so you can easily see how much your putting in. You MAY start to see a very small amount come out on the inside of the glass in the car...when you see it start moving working your way around the glass till you get back where you started. 1 Tube should make this pass, Possibly 1 & 1/4 tube...Really poke the tip down into the channel, don't worry about hurting the weather strip by lifting it up a good bit, I haven't torn one yet.

Next Step.....
If you went to a 2nd tube cut the tip a little bit bigger and start filling the space between the body and the weather stripping.... poke the tip down in there a bit and start squeezing till you see a little bit start to push out inside of the car...When you see it, start moving around the glass till you run out...load next tube and repeat all the way around... Be careful not to fill the channel up all the way tho...you still got clips to install.

Next step...
Install clips... I use a 1x4 board with a bunch of tape wrapped around then end and ALWAYS try to have new clips on hand, prefer to have NOS Clips if possible...Pop all the clips in place now and go ahead and add more sealer all the way around. Your basically topping it off and paying a lil special attention to around the clips.... Keep in mind that you still have stainless to install and if you fill it up 2 much you will have a tough time getting it on.
If I recall the last one I did we left the sealer just even with the top of the weatherstrip... Now just go back and smooth it all down with a rubber gloved finger tip and clean up all your mess off the glass and the car...
Install Stainless 24hrs later and your good to go.
This stuff doesn't get hard like silicone or anything else so putting stainless on is easy.

This method has worked on multiple occasions for me and should work just fine for you as well.... Hope I didn't forget anything

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

Yep ,the caulking strips go on the metal lip .I dont use a rope to pull the rubber in to lock it over the channel lip,i have a hook tool i made that i use .you can still wipe the caulking strips off if you are not care full . There has to be something between the metal lip and the rubber ,just sealing the outer edge will not do it .You can take the bedding compound in a caulking tube and cut the tip opening small ,insert it between the lower metal lip and the rubber and fill the gap but it is a bit hard to do and fill all the voids ,that is where the 3M caulking strips come in .I have sealed close to 200 cars this way and the only one i had leak was a 69 Torino fast back back window ,but that was a glue in window like the front window of a 69 and it leaked because the window lip was bent out of shape and didnt allow the glass to set into the ribbon all the way around .

[MikeStang 247]

The CRL flows pretty easy, but its Stringy as hell lol.

putting the CRL and then installing the clips and then topping the CRL off seems to work for us.

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I have used it before ,wait until you have to remove a window sealed with that stuff ...you aint seen stringy yet HAHA ,it goes everywhere !!!

[MikeStang 247]

Yeah I can only imagine how much of a PITA it will be to clean up, But hey if it don't leak till after Im long and gone I could care less HaHA

[mustangstofear 608]

This should help. I only use the CRL sealant under the gasket and regular urethane between the glass and the gasket.