Need step by step installation 1G to 3G Alt conversion

[ashleesmach1 28]

Any help would be appreciated! I have the 4 gauge wire to the battery and the 175 amp fuse and the single grey wire for the the alt. I also Have a Good 3G 130 amp Alt. A detailed diagram would be very helpful. I looked on UTUBE but did not find a clear video to learn from. Thanks!

[ashleesmach1 28]

I really just want to know which one of the wires on the regulator harness I attach the green/red wire too from the Alt . Is it F S A or I. Thanks!

[ashleesmach1 28]

Ok, after looking at the 1969 wiring diagram. I discovered that the green/red wire from the 3G alt harness connects to the the S labeled wire on the regulator harness which is green/red. This wire come directly from the ignition switch.

[MN69Grande 203]

I didn't attempt to splice this in.  When I did the upgrade a couple of weeks ago I ran a 6 gauge with a mega fuse (175amp) taped off the Grey wire as it wasn't fused and I figured if the 175 amp blew the grey wire would melt and take my harness with it.  What I used was the PA Performance kit that replaces the external regulator.  It's $30 has easy to follow instructions.  It was worth the money.  Unplug and unbolt the old regulator.  Bolt in the PA Performance box.  Plug back in.  The kit comes with a harnesses the plugs right into the alternator and there are 2 connections to make on the alternator it self.  

 

 

http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/

 

Install Instructions (might help you figure out wiring even without the box) 

http://www.paperformance.com/content/462802C.pdf   -Cut and paste this link it doesn't seem to work when clicked.  weird.

 

You can get it from CJ but it took 3 weeks.

 

http://www.cjponyparts.com/pa-performance-alternator-conversion-kit-allows-use-of-3g-130-amp-alternator-1965-1985/p/ALTCK/

 

Summit and Jegs don't have it listed that I could find.

 

American Muscle seems to have the best price but I've never ordered from them.

 

http://www.americanmuscle.com/paperformance-1g-3g-alternatorplug.html

[MN69Grande 203]

The other thing to note is the new alternator will burn out the original Ampmeter gauge.  If you are using a stock cluster you might want to check out Rocket man for a Voltmeter upgrade.  He had one out to me in 3 days.  I just kept my old one and paid the core.

 

http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all

[ashleesmach1 28]

10-4 thanks for the reply,  I need to get the 3 wire connector, but I have everything else. except the 560 ohm resister for the amp gauge but no biggie I can get that too. However I may go with the volt meter gauge. I really had a hard time figuring out where the "I" green/red wire from the 3 wire connector on the 3G alt connects too. Now I know It connects to the "S" wire on the regulator harness. It is possible to connected the 3G without the PA kit. I would like to loose the stock voltage regulator and it's harness. The rest of the connections are easy according to this JPG

[MN69Grande 203]

One other thing while the clocking on the alternator I got was correct and everything lined up with the original brackets no issues, the lower mounting hole didn't have any threads.  It is similar to the top one where the bolt goes all the way through and into the head.  So not a big deal I just got a bolt, nut, and locking washer at the hardware store.  The only draw back is that it is hard to adjust with one person.  I use a stubby wrench on the back nut and let it prop itself against the alternator while using a ratchet on the bold.  But sometimes it likes to fall off.  The 130amp I got was for a Taurus/Sable/Windstar circa 1998.  Not a bad upgrade for under a hundred bucks.

[ashleesmach1 28]

10-4 Grande, the one I have is clocked the right way too. Now that I have all the connectors and wires,  I still need to change the pulley tho, no big deal tho. Yes I have a nut and bolt to lock the hole that's not threaded. My 3G was free from a friend :)

[MN69Grande 203]

Free is the best price out there!  I was pretty happy to find mine new for $60.  I only mentioned the bolt because I assumed it would be the same and we went to put it in and got a little frustrated.

[sixt9stang 36]

Do you just swap the pulley then?

[MN69Grande 203]

Do you just swap the pulley then?

Yeap.  I used an electric impact wrench and good gloves.  It was pretty easy.

[sixt9stang 36]

Yeap.  I used an electric impact wrench and good gloves.  It was pretty easy.

 

Awesome.  Another project added to the list. :)

[ashleesmach1 28]

I am wondering what 560 Ohm resister to use. I found one from Parts Express. It's 12v dc 1 watt resistor. I am curious if this will be sufficient to protect the amp gauge? Here is the web site:   http://www.parts-express.com/560-ohm-1w-flameproof-resistor-10-pcs--003-560

[danno 128]

I have been following this and can make a few comments.  First of all, the ampmeter in 1969 and 1970 Mustangs is technically a voltmeter.  It measures the voltage difference across a section of wire that is from your starter solenoid to under the radiator ( by the windshield washer pump).  Some of this might be hard to understand, and it also does not apply if you have aftermarket gauges.  All wires have a voltage drop in them.  When you have the engine not running, and the lights on, you might have 12 volts on your battery post.  Because there is current in the wire to power your headlights, the voltage in the wire under your radiator will be maybe 11.5 volts. The Half volt drop in voltage across this section of wire shows up on the "ampmeter" as a negative voltage, but the meter shows it as negative amps. 

 

Putting a 560 ohm resistor in series with the existing "ampmeter" will cause it to not work.  That is fine, because it basically does not work now.  Those factory ampmeters never worked right in any of the cars, even when brand new.  That is the reason so many people switch to voltmeters.   The application you have above with the schematic and picture for it talks about using it in a 1965 Mustang, and that could be significantly different.  So if you are doing this mod in a 1969 car, it does not apply.   What works for the ampmeter in a 65 probably  does not apply to the ampmeter of a 69.

[ashleesmach1 28]

Yes, I see your point. So, how do you suggest connecting the green wire from the 3G 130 amp Alternator

thanks 

[MN69Grande 203]

I know it's an extra $100 bucks and 2 hours of work.  But I'll reiterate my suggestion of buying a converted gauge from rocket man ($65) and the PA Performance conversion Kit ($35).  Then you'd have a working gauge and Original wiring (with the exception of cutting out a small part of the dash circuit board).

[ashleesmach1 28]

But I don't want to do that or spend the extra dough. But thanks anyway. I want to know how danno would install it. I don't think that the technology had advance that much between 65 and 69. Maybe a little but not that much. Where would danno put the green wire? 

[det0326 202]

I'm not danno but I have a 3g on my 69. The green wire has nothing to do with the amp meter it has to go to a switched source from the ignition switch in order for the alt. to be excited to start charging. Ford did incorporate a warning light in this circuit on some models. Where the stock amp meter  is connected is as good as it gets, if you want something that operates better than the old amp meter then you will have to do as MN69Grande said or some other aftermarket gauge.

 

Dave

[ashleesmach1 28]

Dave, I looked at the schematic wiring diagram (lower)for the the 69 and the regulator harness connector is labeled as follows:

I - not used

S - ignition switch

A - Solenoid

F- alternator field

 So the green wire does go to the "s" wire on the regulator connector. The S on the connector is the exciter circuit for the alt

The yellow wire goes to the battery side of the solenoid 

The White/black striped wire loops back to the 3G Alternator

The 6-4 gauge cable connected to a mega fuse and then to the battery side of the alternator 

 

Did you remove the ammeter and replace it with a voltmeter?

Oh, by the way I have a voltmeter already for the conversion. I have the Shelby ashtray two gauge kit. I plan on removing the astray and installing the kit.

[det0326 202]

My amp meter is still in the cluster but not functional just for looks. When I reinstalled the wire harness in mine I actually added a circuit for a warning light for now until I figure out what I am going to do to the gauge. I would like to make it a little more sensitive to show charge and discharge better. Danno I think it was talked about trying to do this one time I wish someone could come up with something. My car has a place for a bulb in the instrument panel for a seat belt warning light but did not have this feature so I utilized the hole for an alt. warning light.

 

Dave

[ashleesmach1 28]

Very cool!

not my thunbnails!!!! LOWER!