Is it necessary to reinforce shock towers

[prayers1 153]

My Engine and trans are out. I'm upgrading my PS & PB's, also plans are to build a Cleveland with 500hp or more.

 

My shock towers are in good shape. Do I really need to reinforce the shock towers if I have the Export Brace and Monte Carlo Bar?

 

If so, I see different kits, some with more or less pieces,which to get?

Do the parts need to be welded all around or at certain spots?

 

My dilemma is that my right side header was a papers width from the shock tower, will the plate reach up that high and interfere with the header.

I plan on getting adjustable motor mounts to move the engine more to the left.

 

Are there plates made with header cut outs?

 

Thanks in advance for your help!

[Rsanter 152]

No you do not.

Are yours the small block towers or are they the 351/390/428 type towers?

Also, those kits to me are mostly for towers that are already broken.

If I had good tower and wanted to reinforce them I would add the trans-am brace to the inside of the tower and then if I don't care about the towers not looking original I wound stitch weld the exsisting seams of the towers and leave it at that

 

Bob

[Max Power 74]

No you do not.

Are yours the small block towers or are they the 351/390/428 type towers?

Also, those kits to me are mostly for towers that are already broken.

If I had good tower and wanted to reinforce them I would add the trans-am brace to the inside of the tower and then if I don't care about the towers not looking original I wound stitch weld the exsisting seams of the towers and leave it at that

 

Bob

The reinforced towers do not come in the 351 cars, as far as I know. I believe that they are Boss 302 and big block only.

[RPM 1,190]

While I believe the purpose of which you're building your car is paramount, I'll ditto Rsanter on this. Other than the stitch welding, which I wish I'd have done, that's what I did to my chassis as it'll probably never see the track.

 

Edit: I moved the #1 cylinder tube on the right side so I would have 1" of shock tower clearance instead of the 1/16" unmodified.

[prayers1 153]

My car came as a factory 351W, 3 speed stick.  To clear things up, the part that hits the header is not the round corners of the shock tower but the center section of it, can't recall the name of that part.

 

The car will not be an all out racer, but on occasion some good burn outs and street racing.

[barnett468 418]

ok, if you want to reinforce the towers, you can buy a kit that will weld to the end of your existing double brace and the shock tower.

 

you can also reinforce it from the inside where the upper a arm bolts to by simply welding a reinforcement on that side . a simple piece of rectangular bar stock around 1 1/2 x 1/4" by around 10" long welded directly over the bolt holes will help . just drill it for the bolt holes and bolt it in place to weld it.

[Rsmach1 71]

I tend to agree with what's been said, as long as you don't plan on stuffing it hard into corners.

 

Just check them well for cracks, especially along the framerail, this is where mine started to crack at the rear, and where my brother's sheared while braking hard.

[prayers1 153]

If I really don't need to, then I won't.

I don't have a welder and I'd have to tow the car somewhere to get it installed.

 

I do realize the importance of it, but I'm not road racing, steering into hard corners etc...

 

So you think I can get away with it or its so important to do.

[Brian Conway 264]

Even new these cars weren't build to handle 500 hp.  The 428 CJ's with North of 300 hp, probably around 400 hp, got the extra shock tower wraps.  FWIW Brian 

[RPM 1,190]

John, just send your car to latoracing, he'll make it bulletproof for you :)

[jholmes217 65]

You might not need the Monte Carlo bar and export brace, but if your going to be putting that much HP and torque inside that engine bay, I'd use some heavy duty motor mounts, and/or some type of torque strap, chain, or motor brace or you will have a good chance of broken motor mounts in your future.

[lanky 44]

You can do what I did and put the outer braces on the outside of the shock tower. Yea yea I know its not the same as the ones on the inside, but it's got to be better than nothing, it's not hard to do the prep work, and you don't have to remove the engine! I agree about having a nice shock tower brace and monte bar...

[prayers1 153]

I agree RPM, latoracing does some excellent work!

 

I do have the motor and trans out, I could find a welder that has a portable unit to do some welds.

 

I think the consensus here is 50/50?

[barnett468 418]

the concensus is that if you reinforce them, they are far less likely to crack.

[latoracing 256]

For the ones who like overkill (like myself) and will be beating on their cars in corners,

 

 

 

At minimum, the B302 reinforcement is a great reinforcement, street car or otherwise, gives a better connection to the frame rail.

[Black_69_FB 49]

I agree RPM, latoracing does some excellent work!

 

I do have the motor and trans out, I could find a welder that has a portable unit to do some welds.

 

I think the consensus here is 50/50?

 

Have you considered notching the shock towers for clearance while they're accessible? When I was rebuilding my car, the thought of hacking on them horrified me, but now that it's been finished for a while I wish I would have done it.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Prayers1,  I had the reinforcement kit installed.  The kit I have was sold only by Pro Motorsports Engineering when I purchased it.  I guess they are now this place in the link below, but NPD also sells this kit.

The kit has 7 reinforcement plates for each shock tower.  I would do it again without question, then you don't have to worry about the shock towers.  I've seen too many shock towers destroyed simply due to fatigue from normal driving and age.  My only advice would be if you are also considering the Borgeson or CPP power steering box, do the reinforcement kit and the steering box at the same time.  I obviously didn't and found one small angle brace interfered with the Borgeson power steering box by the thickness of the material, 3/16".  I had to carefully cut through the welds to remove that angle brace.  It took several hours of slow careful cutting using a die grinder with a complete engine in the car.  If you have the power steering box mocked up during the install of the reinforcement kit you can rework/trim that angle brace to fit.

 

http://www.drgas.com/Mustang-Shock-Tower-RepairReinforcement-Kit_p_16.html

 

After posting my thoughts, you'll probably do something completely opposite, haha.

[RPM 1,190]

I do have the motor and trans out, I could find a welder that has a portable unit to do some welds.

 

I think the consensus here is 50/50?

There's no time like the present. Sounds like you want to do it but just need a little reinforcement :)

[prayers1 153]

I understand all of you.

 

So many things to do, rebuild motor, upgrade PS & PB's, now shock towers and possible subframe connectors which all are costly....

If it wasn't for a bad valve seat I wouldn't think of doing it, but once the drivetrain is out one starts think now is the time to do it.

This is the reason I am so slow to act, just trying to weigh out what really has to be done vs. doing the ultimate build.

I'd rather drive the car and have fun!

 

Now whats the best subframe connector???

[prayers1 153]

Here's a picture of both shock towers, the right one shows 2 arrows of my concern.  The center arrow is where the header hits, the second is my fault, but I always nick it with the ratchet when checking plugs.

 

I don't see any reinforcement on them???

 

Would the reinforcements be in the way of the header problem or is this a situation that I have to dent in that area for header clearance.

 

 

[Black_69_FB 49]

I understand all of you.

 

So many things to do, rebuild motor, upgrade PS & PB's, now shock towers and possible subframe connectors which all are costly....

If it wasn't for a bad valve seat I wouldn't   think of doing it, put once the drivetrain is out one starts think now is the time to do it.

This is the reason I am so slow to act, just trying to weigh out what really has to be done vs. doing the ultimate build.

I'd rather drive the car and have fun!

 

Now whats the best subframe connector???

 

lol

 

You are right to be deliberate in your thought process, as you are well in the danger zone of the "while-I'm-at-it's".

[det0326 179]

I understand all of you.

 

So many things to do, rebuild motor, upgrade PS & PB's, now shock towers and possible subframe connectors which all are costly....

If it wasn't for a bad valve seat I wouldn't   think of doing it, put once the drivetrain is out one starts think now is the time to do it.

This is the reason I am so slow to act, just trying to weigh out what really has to be done vs. doing the ultimate build.

I'd rather drive the car and have fun!

 

Now whats the best subframe connector???

John I used the tin man's sub connectors. I am pleased with them not saying there the best but I think they look better than some I've seen. They are welded on and do stiffen up the frame rails really nice.  

 

Dave

 

BTW the only thing I didn't like is you have to cut the rear  of the front  frame rail for the connector to slide in.

[1969_Mach1 333]

You can install subframe connectors at any time.  Focus on what is best to do while the engine is out or nothing will get completed.  Like you mentioned, this started out as a bad valve seat.  It's evolved into the most expensive valve seat repair I have ever seen.

[RPM 1,190]

If you'd rather drive it than work on it, do the things needed and/or wanted while in its present state, then get her rolling. I started with sub frame connectors, then convertible inner rockers, then one piece seat riser, then 6 point roll bar. See where I'm going with this? I agree with adding the SFC once it's driveable. Those can be done on a weekend.

[larryc94 38]

Here's a picture of both shock towers, the right one shows 2 arrows of my concern.  The center arrow is where the header hits, the second is my fault, but I always nick it with the ratchet when checking plugs.

 

I don't see any reinforcement on them???

 

Would the reinforcements be in the way of the header problem or is this a situation that I have to dent in that area for header clearance.

That picture of the drivers side has something  showing from the original front upper control arm hole wrapping around the front of the tower.  Can't tell if it's a scratch or crack, but that an area where they will crack