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prayers1

Anyone use UniSteer Rack & Pinion?

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Looking to change form manual to power steering. I've looked at a few options and came down to a Borgensen PS box type set up or UniSteer that has a direct bolt on rack & pinion.

 

l will be installing it with a 351 Cleveland so that in itself is the big hurdle.

 

The down side of the Borgenson unit is trying to find a PS pump bracket which Borgenson does not carry and a factory one does not work, also there is concern of long tube header fitment. 

 

As for the UniSteer, I've read a few complaints that the unit would not directly bolt to the crossmembers old location and that a few had to oblong the holes in the unit.

 

I did speak to UniSteer who advised that of course there will be some fitment concerns due to the age of our vehicles.  Evidence shows that over time the body and frame flex's with age and gets distorted, especially when the car is placed on a stands or lifts for a long time which puts stress on the frame causing it to flex, so over time there is going to be some variances.

 

Here is a short version on UniSteer in a 428.

 

Opinions are welcomed. Thank you!

 

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You're right about power steering pumps.  To get a Saginaw power steering pump or a late model Ford pump on a Cleveland might be a problem without being able to, or have a source to fabricate parts.  The pump  mounting kit Borgeson offers for small block Fords is a simple 3/8" thick flat plate that bolts to two front cylinder head bolt holes and uses spacers to obtain pulley alignment. I guess you can get a small block Ford pump kit and see the bracket can be redrilled to work for you.  I actually redrilled mine and trimmed off some excess material to move the pump closer to the engine so the original belt would fit.  I don't think it would be too difficult to fit the Saginaw pump kit that Borgeson offers to your motor.

 

I haven't tested an orginal p/s pump but according to my service manual the test procedure is 800 psi.  A Saginaw pump is rated at 1200 psi.  If you are considering a power rack and pinion setup you should also verify which pumps are suitable for it.  I wouldn't trust the mfg of whatever system you are considering if they say something like the original pump "should work if its in good condition."  Phrases like that are basically weasle words they use in an attempt to sell their product.

 

You're also correct, large tube headers might be an issue with a Borgeson power steering box.  I've noticed for Windsor small blocks JBA specifies which of their long tube headers fit with a Borgeson power steering box.

 

There is also the option of a power steering box from CPP (Classic Performance Parts).  It's physically smaller than the Borgeson box.  The only drawback to the CPP steering box is one spot in the portion of the shock tower at the steering box often has to be dented a little to clear the box.  Not bad if you do not have a shock tower reinforcement kit installed or the shock tower style bracing of the 428 Mustangs.  I have the shock tower reinforcement kit which is why I didn't use a CPP power steering box.  CPP's box also needs a 1200 psi rated pump.  So a Saginaw or late model Ford power steering pump is required.

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Hey P1, 

 

I have a Unisteer PS rack with a Saginaw pump.  I did not have any issues with the install.  The only modification I made on their mounting bracket was opening up the holes for the lower control arms adjustments.  I use the Camber Kit from SoT so I needed a bit more room to be able to make adjustments.  Pump and Rack and a good match, good road feel with no issues.  I had no other issues with that rack and I have a big block with headers.  No clearance issues at all.  

 

I am sure there are any issues with any of these cars as old as they are, so that is always a possibility.  

 

Scott 

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I have a power Unisteer rack set-up for my build, which is still on the rotisserie. I have not installed the supplied pump but have installed the rack mount for mock-up purposes. There is some minor trimming of the LCA attachment points, mainly the little tabs that guide the eccentric, and a little off of the flanges on the lower mount itself. The holes in the supplied mount are not large enough (in my opinion) for easy LCA camber adjustments, they might need to be enlarged depending on your particular car.

 

With the steering box out of the way, headers should not be an issue, hopefully...

 

I modified the position of my engine by lowering it and sliding it towards the rear of the car, the stock Unisteer mounting bracket would not clear my oil pan. I ended up making a totally new mounting  cross member to accommodate the new engine position. That being said, if your engine is not in the stock position, there might be some interference with the new cross member and the oil pan 

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Have a look at the bracket for mounting a Saginaw pump on a 351W offered by Tom's bronco parts. Not sure how different the 351C setup is but it might be place to start. Used this kit on my 69FB to get away from noisy Ford pumps and have plenty of pressure at idle when parking. I believe they sell the bracket separately as well.

 

https://www.tomsbroncoparts.com/product/saginaw-power-steering-pump-kit-351-windsor-66-77-early-ford-bronco-new

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latoracing- I'm getting a set of Ron Morris engine mounts to move my engine side to side.  I see you lowered yours and set it back, do you think I will have any problems with my oil pan if left in the stock position.

 

You shouldn't, even with adjusting the engine left to right. The Unisteer bracket has a little wiggle room. The rack will come into contact with the pan way before the bracket will.

 

KIMG0131_zpsqa1rgqy3.jpg

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Personally, as an Engineer, when I see Ron Moris' stuff, suspension items, mounts, etc.  With all the adjustability in everything I think poor engineering, poor design.  His motor mounts are not as bad as his suspension products.  It looks like their philosophy is get it kind of-maybe-somewhat close and let the customer adjust everything.  Sorry, just my opinion.  Besides, I'd think moving the motor left or right might create other issues to sort through.

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1969_Mach1- I do agree with you.  However, in my case, the right header was a papers width away from the shock tower and the shaker scoop sat offset to the right approx an 1" or 1 1/2".

I suspect that the car may have been in an accident.  I've replaced every panel on the car besides the roof and made some rear frame rail repairs, during that time I did not find and misalignment.  Since I'm happy with the body, my only thought would be to get adjustable motor mounts to fix the centering of the motor instead of a frame machine. I would eventually like to get long tube headers.

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Oh, I see your reasoning.  Is the fan even close to being centered in the radiator?  I would think there are going to be fan to fan shroud clearance issues.  And may be even driveline issues.  You're certain the motor is not centered in the engine compartment?  What about the front wheel alignment?  If the motor mounts are that far off side to side I'd be curious if the lower control arms are affected.  Now that the motor is out, I'd take some measurements and a another serious look to find out if something is wrong.  Maybe even find a body shop that has equipment to straighten frames and see if they can at least check it and fix it if needed.  In my mind, I would first sort out this issue, then move on to whatever steering or motor mods you plan on doing.

 

​I don't think I would use the header fitment as a guide to determine if the motor is sitting correctly in the engine compartment.  The air cleaner not being centered side to side is concerning though.

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Come to think of it, the fan always looked centered. I would have noticed any misalignments since I'm always working on the car. Strange the motor sits more to the right or maybe that is how they all are?

 

I have also checked out Total Control Products R&P, very pricey but looks well made. It has 4 bolt on locations making it more secure then the Unisteer which has a 2 bolt location at the crossmember holes.

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Prayers... I don't know where your getting your information from...the facts are properly rebuilt  the original Ford PS pumps work perfect with the Borgeson set up...I run custom hoses with a goose neck down and under and up to the PS pump....Again fact is my Patriot long tube headers work great and clear everything....408 Cleveland C6...For a 4/5 speed set up use a hydraulic throw out bearing to eliminate the Z-bar....joe 

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1969_Mach1 said "I haven't tested an orginal p/s pump but according to my service manual the test procedure is 800 psi.  A Saginaw pump is rated at 1200 psi." 

 

I know he didn't test the unit but he's usually right on his opinions.

 

Joe- The info you just past on is great, since we both have Cleveland's, what works for you will for me. I have an AOD and have a used factory PS setup I bought from someone a couple of years ago. I forget if the PS pump bracket is there, but if so I can either rebuild the pump or buy a new one. I'm not looking for anything fancy, just to get a reliable PS system that will work with a Cleveland and headers.  BTW, how do you like the stroker??????

 

PS- Now I remember where I saw your name. NJ?

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Prayers...This is my re builder Roger @ Rodes Restorations...419-4685182...he just doesn't change gaskets...he machines/restores what is needed...The Ford pumps have a great feel and are quiet when done properly ,don't even think of hesitating when used with Borgeson boxes...and YES I love my 408....joe

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I don't know what to say.  3pedal, its great your original pump works with the Borgeson power steering box.  I haven't yet heard of anybody else with that good of success using an original Ford power steering pump with a Borgeson power steering box.  Ford pumps haven't had a reputation of being quite and providing great feel.  Although I'm not certain what great feel means since steering effort and steering feel is determined by the torsion bar inside the spool valve in the steering box.  I know on the other brand of cars, GM, . . . yes GM, they used the same steering box and pump on many cars and simply changed that torsion bar to alter the steering feel.

 

I know Ford pumps have had a reputation of being noisy from the late 1960's through the late 1990's.  I believe they are different style of pump than the Saginaw pump.  Your rebuilder maybe does better work than most others and corrects problem areas during the rebuild.  Personally, I just don't have enough confidence in the Ford pumps to try it.

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Here's a Mitchell Repair Manual on testing the Ford/Thompson Pump. I'm not really sure if they are reporting the pressure needed to run. Maybe someone can figure that out

 

As Mach1_1969 said it would require at least 1200 psi to work with the Borgensen box.

 

Here's some good reads:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/894938-thompson-pump-pressure.html

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/890864-power-steering-pressure.html

 

Next week I'll give a call to Joe's rebuilder and see whats up. If any of you have any more info on the use of the Ford/Thompson Pumps working with a Borgensen please let us know.

 

I also came across a site StangersSite.com, he rebuilds Ford/Thompson Pumps and gives a good history about them with plenty of pics.

 

Thanks for all of your opinions!

V2D7513075.pdf

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If an original Ford pump will work for you, that would be the easiest solution.  If not, I would look at the bracket Mister69 posted for a Saginaw pump.  It's only $35  so would not be much loss if you couldn't make it work.  It looks like it's installed in conjunction with some of the original brackets.  You've done so much to that car I don't think sorting out a p/s pump bracket is beyond your ability.

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I'll try to send Prayers or anyone a video from  my I phone of my set up...70 Mach1 with a properly rebuilt Ford pump and me turning the steering wheel with the Borgeson box installed...when I say nice feel I don't mean turning with your pinkee...I mean a nice sports car feel that's easy to turn.....I'll let you all know if the I phone video lets me send it...joe

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