3G conversion original charging cable

[MN69Grande 203]

I got 90% of the way through swapping out my ammeter for a rocketman converted volt meter and also a 130amp 3G alternator using the PA Performance conversion kit.  So here is my question.  The PA Performance kit instruction say to add an additional charging line that is a larger gauge and has a fuse or a or fusable link.  I ran a 6 gauge with a 175 amp mega fuse.  But it has you to continue to use the original charging line.  My question is this.  The original charging line doesn't have a fuse.  

 

1.) So if my alternator goes crazy and blows the 175 amp fuse on the 6 gauge won't the 10 gauge or less original charging wire like melt and become a hazard?  Since I ran the 6 gauge wouldn't it be better to tape off the original charging line?

2.) I noticed the black/red stripe wire from the alternator was a little melty.  The orange line was fine (I believe this is ignition), and the main grey charging line line seemed fine.  What is the most likely cause of this?

3.) Right now I have the new charging line run to the battery side of the solenoid.  I was thinking of running a marine style battery connector (where you can connect multiple lines to the terminal via a post with a nut).   would it be a bad idea to move the feed directly to the battery.  I want to use this style terminal because I'm putting in an electric fan and already have a 10 gauge additional accessory feed to power electric windows.  The solenoid post is getting a bit full of wires.

 

Thanks for any help!

[afret 37]

I just used this wire with fuse.  It states that you don't have to run the other wire if you use this 4 ga wire.

 

http://www.paperformance.com/premium-short-9905/

[Sean D 31]

I am replacing all front end wiring in my 69, and also doing this 3g conversion as well with the pa performance conversion kit and their 4g charge wire with 200 amp fuse. Replacing the voltage regulator with the one from the conversion kit is straight forward. On 69 non tach car, the original alternator harness has three wires from the original alternator harness, orange is spliced to the green/red stripe wire from the conversion kit. The black/ red stripe is not used. And the third is a black charge wire (I think it is charge wire), but the conversion kit instructions says to not upgrade the charge wire but instead add a second wire (6 or 4g charge wire). However I am concerned about using the original black 10g charge wire in the alternator harness. Should I connect the original charge wire to the alt in addition to the new 4g charge wire? If I dont use original charge wire will it affect anything? Anyone done this with the pa performance conversion kit? 

[Sean D 31]

Anyone have any suggestions?

[Midlife 814]

Keeping the original charge wire seems perverse, as you must keep the plug or cut/splice that wire in addition to another wire.  Having two wires is not a bad idea if one goes bad, you have another.  If you eliminate the original, please use 4 gauge wire: should be more than enough to charge a battery.

[Sean D 31]

Thanks Midlife. I do plan to use a new fused 4 gauge wire, seperate to the original charge wire, going directly to the positive post on the selonoid. But I guess it will not hurt anything to also use the original charge wire as well, as looking at the wiring diagram it will be hot even if not used and not connected, right?

[Midlife 814]

Yes, it will be hot (not temperature) so protect it well.  If your other wire blows its fuse, this original wire will now take up the load and soon burn up as well. 

The original wire is roughly 10 gauge, so I'm puzzled as to why 4 or 6 gauge is needed for the new system.  The entire Mustang harness only has 10 gauge so the extra thickness is only for charging the battery.  Allowing that many amps (100+) into the battery can cause damage if not regulated.  Although it is regulated by voltage, there is no current regulation.  The only reason to go to such extremes is if you have many accessories running directly off the battery (e.g. fans, stereo amps, machine guns up front and back, etc.). 

[69RavenConv 286]

Electric machine guns, that's just silly. I always go with the OEM vacuum operated units.  

[Sean D 31]

Hi Midlife,

I am going with the following 95A 3G alternator (60 amps at idle (2000 alternator shaft rpm) 120 amps maximum) with my 408 stroker build (in the works), that will be running big electric fans, mini starter, MSD Ignition and Coil, halogen lights, etc.

http://www.paperformance.com/95a-3g-alternator-1614l/

I agree that the 3G atlernator itself is voltage regulated, but not current regulated. 

I am also converting my ammeter gauge to a voltage gauge so I can keep a watch on the voltage better. and not burn up my dash wiring.

But I believe you are correct that the original 10 gauge will burn up if the 4 gauge inline 200 amp fuse blows. However, looking at the wiring diagram I think the original 10 gauge will burn up if it is connected to the alternator or not, right? As the original fusible link black wire (fused at firewall I believe) is connected to the battery side of the starter solenoid and this wire is spliced into the original alternator 10 gauge charge wire somewhere along the front headlight wiring harness. So it really doesn't matter if I connect the original 10 guage charge wire to alternator or not, as it has current either way, right?

[Midlife 814]

On a 69, there was no fusible link on the headlight harness; fusible links were introduced on the 70, and it was poorly designed.  That fusible link only blew when (1) excessive load was seen with the car not running, and (2) while running, the battery had an internal short, but the car could continue to run off of the alternator.

With your excessive (compared to stock) amperage loads, I would not connect the 10 gauge wire; I presume you are doing away with the stock voltage regulator.  It also must be kept if you are running an ammeter, but you said you've changed to a voltmeter. 

[Sean D 31]

Hi Midlife,

Again thank you for quick response! I haven't upgraded to voltmeter yet, but will do so before getting my new engine in. I am using the PA Performance 3G conversion kit: http://www.paperformance.com/1g-3g-conversion-462802c/

with instructions here: http://www.paperformance.com/content/462802C.pdf

Here are notes from the instructions related to the original charge wire [referred to below as "larger" black (or black/orange) wire]: 

NOTE 2: The "larger" black (or black/orange) wire is the B+. Instead of upgrading it, add a 2nd wire (#6 or #4 gauge) to it, and run that from the B+ stud on the alternator over to the B+ (battery) side of the fender mounted starter solenoid. This new wire MUST include a fusible link (or a fuse) for protection rated at 150 amps minimum for a 95A 3G and 200 amps for a 130A 3G. PA-Performance offers this Power Wire Kit, or an auto parts store or stereo shop can supply you with one. The small black wire is cut off or taped back and unused. The ignition wire (see note on color from step #14) we connect to the green/red. The BIG eye terminal on the ground wire - (if present) is connected to the alternator mounting foot for a good clean direct ground path.

NOTE 3: In some cases the original # 10 black battery + wire actually runs through the amp gauge on the dash. You MUST run a 2nd wire as we described to handle the added current on a 130 amp 3G upgrade. Do not upgrade the original wire because it must go through the amp gauge - but the amp gauge will not handle the added amperage. The result is that the amp gauge will not be accurate once the jumper is run. It will be more accurate to add a volt gauge in the future.

[MN69Grande 203]

So I cut out the original charging wire.  The Rocket Man Conversion of the gauge has you cut the connection for the ampmeter out of the circuit board behind the dash.  So if you go voltmeter and change the ampmeter connection I'd get rid of the old line.  I thought it would be more of a hazard than anything.

 

Scroll down the page to find the Mustang Gauges: http://www.rccinnovations.com/index.php?show=menu-volt-all

[Midlife 814]

Ha!  I earlier figured out why they wanted you to use the existing wire: for the ammeter.  If you go with a voltmeter, you can remove the original charging wire along with the red ammeter lead.

[Sean D 31]

MN69Grande - did you remove the entire original charge wire out of the alternator harness and the entire headlight harness? If so, do you remember how far back into the headlight harness you had to go?

[MN69Grande 203]

1 hour ago, Sean D said:

MN69Grande - did you remove the entire original charge wire out of the alternator harness and the entire headlight harness? If so, do you remember how far back into the headlight harness you had to go?

So mine was melted a little about 2-3 inches from the alternator.  So I cut it there, pulled the cut out part out of the connector,  pulled the remainder back a couple inches.  Taped off the open end separately, laid that bit back against the harness and wrapped it again in electrical tape.  So there is a bit of a bump at the end of the harness but you really have to look at it to find it.