MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 Okay So last night I started tearing down the 66 Coupe that I bought for my son's first car, which he wont be needing for another 6 years LOL. The guy I got the car from had already put new pans and a whole host of other stuff in the car, along with a new 302 Roller motor with TF Heads and cam etc... I decided I wanted to go ahead and get the motor and trans out, and remove all the under-hood wiring, MSD box, horns, both front fenders, the hood, hinges, and the front Fiberglass racing apron. The PO had installed a Large Aluminum Cross Flow radiator that was basically a universal unit, and to make it all fit he decided to notch the front frame rails, as well as remove the pass side battery apron and fab up his own LOL... he was very creative and pretty handy with a plasma cutter apparently. Anyhow I would like to Re-Use the radiator since it cools the car perfectly, its brand new and would never lack for cooling, and it looks nice stretching all the way across the big opening in the racing apron. My question here that I would like some opinions on is this. Should I just go ahead and fab up some pieces and box the rails in so the radiator can be used, or should I just go ahead and put the right radiator in it.. Regardless I will have to do something with the open holes in the front frame rails, so why waste the money on a new radiator when I can just box the holes in the rails and use this radiator? So once the radiator was out, hood was removed, most of the wiring pulled out, and trans crossmember bolts and cables etc.. were removed I decided to pull the headers off so that the motor would come out with no problems. When I bought the car I saw that the PO Had cut some holes in the shock towers and I figured it was something either he did or someone before him... After removing the headers I decided he must have done it because the Shorty headers had some tubes flattened on them pretty good, but they were a good ways away from hitting the towers.... So I finally got the headers off and they are a Very well made Set of JBA Coated units, but some of the tubes have been worked a little with a BFH which tells me they are not the correct headers for the Car. This brings me to my second Question. The towers are Solid and have no other damage I can see aside from the damn gaping holes he cut, so do I just get some plate steel and fill the holes or do I get one of those shock tower notch kits and notch the towers?? Opinions, thought? and Lastly I think it will be best to go ahead and replace his abortion of a battery apron with the correct one, and possibly replace the core support as well because he hacked it up pretty good haha. heres a few pics. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 Aside from some the hacked up frame rails in the front and the shock tower holes he cut, the car appears to be Very solid so far. Going to try to get the motor and trans out tonight, then gut the interior and remove all the new parts that are laying in the trunk and move on to replacing whatever sheet metal I need to replace to fill these nice lil holes he made, then get it ready for media blasting so I can start the fun stuff HAHA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 That is quite the battery box,Please replace LOL .I would box the frame rails, you should be able to make a good looking filler patch . The tower hole pics will not open for me for some reason .It was common to cut holes to grease the upper control arm .I would fill those also to keep them from cracking through the holes .If you had some old tower pieces you could cut the patches from them .I have a wrecked front clip here i may be able to trim out those pieces ,if it isnt smashed up in that area . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 Yeah ya like that bad ass battery box area he built don't ya LMAO. Ordered the battery area replacement metal already LOL. Yeah I think Ill just box the rails in and Re-Use the radiator. No need to cut out the tower pieces from your car Ridge, Ill just get some 1/8" plate and cut what I need... pretty sure I have some at home... may as well make some shock tower reinforcements while im at it LOL.. Man I have been wanting to get cracking on this thing so bad LOL... It seems so much simpler than my 69 does to work on hhaha... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 I do however need a few measurements ridge. Since he has removed the pasd apron and replaced it with smooth metal i have no reference points. Would ya mind pulling me a measurement from the rear most bolt hole on the pass fender mounting apron up to the front most bolt hole on the driver side in the core support... and then repeat that measurement from driver rear most bolt hole to pass front most bolt hole... wanna be sure im all square lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 The best way is to measure from the top edge of the cowl at this raid body line to the front of the radiator support and the holes are usually right on . From the front of the cowl to the face of the radiator support is 44 3/8 .Line the fender apron front hole up with the hole in the radiator support and it will be good .Measurements are the same both sides . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 Dang Mike, you're "done" with your 69 for 10 minutes and you're knee deep in another project. SLOW DOWN! Since those early shock towers are so big I like them notched. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 24, 2016 65 -66 are the easiest to work on ,they don't have all the extras like the 69-70 they are the model As of the Mustangs . 1 Convertible69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 27, 2016 So since I'm replacing the core support also, what about left to right alignment on that thing? Guessing I can just line the front hole in it up with the remaining holes in the other aprons and be good to go? Wondering if I should just cut the apron and core support out all at once and replace core support 1st then do the apron.. Probably over thinking it but hey that's what I do Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 27, 2016 There really is no side to side on the radiator support ,it just lines up at the frame rail on each side and welds at the bottom ,and align the front holes up in the inner fender apron and the radiator support ,and 44 3/8 from the cowl to the front of the radiator support .The inner fender aprons have been pretty good lately and have the bolt holes for the spring covers ,just bolt them in place and they should measure out pretty close .If you can get the Dynacorn panels .I have seen the 44 3/8 vary though on most cars ,sometimes it will be 44 1/4 but either should work as long as both sides are the same . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 My silly ass opted for the entire core support with front cross brace, which means I gotta drill spot welds on the strut rod support braces also and get those loose LOL... DANG WHY DID I decide to do that to LOL..OH WELL it's on now.. Haha Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 You will be happier with the support and cross brace made together when finished ...You will not be happy removing the original cross brace ,it is a PIA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 yeah but seems the metal is a bit thinner than the original stuff is. Guess Ill drill the spot welds out on the strut rod supports and bang those loose, then cut it loose at the frame rails LOL. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Just curious, what brand of sheetmetal you went with? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 If they are Dynacorn pieces they should be a bit heavier gauge ,especially the radiator support .Some of the aftermarket radiator supports are actually thinner . About the easiest way to remove the left over metal on top of the radius rod bracket is to use a air hammer ,just be careful not to cut into the radius bracket . And i would cap that fuel line before you do any cutting ,grinding ,or welding ..cause ,ah...BOOM! HAHA Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 You can get a kit for the lower control arm bracket to convert to the 67 -70 adjustable eccentric, it welds on and you slot the original hole for an adjustable lower control arm .No more shims needed it adjusts like a 67 -70 .Well worth the time to do while the motor is out .Or you can remove the brackets from a 67-70 and weld them on and slot the holes ,that is what i usually do if i have some old ones available at the time . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 You can get a kit for the lower control arm bracket to convert to the 67 -70 adjustable eccentric, it welds on and you slot the original hole for an adjustable lower control arm .No more shims needed it adjusts like a 67 -70 .Well worth the time to do while the motor is out .Or you can remove the brackets from a 67-70 and weld them on and slot the holes ,that is what i usually do if i have some old ones available at the time . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Good old triple post ,going for a new record ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Thanks ridge, I wasn't aware that the lower control arms on the 66 were not slotted like the 67 and up LOL. Guess I better order a kit then. Guessing one just needs to weld the new pieces on with the old hole in the center and then elongate them out and Voila.. Cool thanks for that heads up. Oh the fuel line isn't connected back at the tank, and the tank has a hole in it so hasn't been any vapor or fuel in it for a while haha... I don't recall what brand the front core support is...I ordered it from John's mustang in Houston and most of the parts I have gotten from him are nice and correct, but this piece is for sure thinner than the stock one :-/ I ordered the inner pass apron from NPD and it came uncoated, with a layer of oil on it WTH... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Just called John's and got them to send me the Dynacorn Rad Support and returning this thin ass POS one I have LOL.. Should have all the old metal removed tonight hopefully. Since I Divorced and sold my house and shop, I don't have an air compressor LOL so no air hammer for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 You happen to have an extra set of those little eccentric doo dads laying around ya wanna part with ridge LOL. I have an eccentric eliminator kit with all the extra degree shims and the bolt, I just need the little pieces that weld on LOL.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Yeah just weld the piece over the original hole and slot out the original hole . The oil is so the panel will slide into place a little easier . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 You happen to have an extra set of those little eccentric doo dads laying around ya wanna part with ridge LOL. I have an eccentric eliminator kit with all the extra degree shims and the bolt, I just need the little pieces that weld on LOL.. No extras but i think you can get them from Mustangs Unlimited . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MikeStang 247 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 Think I can actually make those pieces pretty easily LOL... Aint much to them and I have some thick enough steel :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,112 Report post Posted June 28, 2016 They are pretty simple ,it is the slot that would be a pain in the butt. I looked them up and Mustangs plus has them as a full kit ,bolts ,eccentric bracket and the eccentric eliminators . $85 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
