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TinMan

Best way to get old engine to fire

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Whole top end has been replaced. Tonight I hooked up battery and got her to burb on ether in attempt to see if ignition was working. She burbed pretty good and tried her best to fire. Only tried three times. Never backfired thru carb.

 

Ether smelled half burnt at best.

 

Just checking logic...

 

Pull plug to see if spark is weak or hot.

Guessing timing is just too retarded?

 

Missing anything?

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check water in rad

 

drain gas

 

inspect gas tank for dried up gas residue . boil out if there is any.

 

install new gas

 

rebuild carb and install new power valve

 

check distributor shaft for excessive play

 

set points to .017"

 

check spark plugs

 

remove the distributor and spin the oil pump for 30 seconds

 

rotate the crank 360 degrees and spin it again for 30 seconds

 

disconnect distributor vacuum line

 

make sure fuel pump works

 

crank engine over and set timing to 10 degrees before top dead center

 

start car

.

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When firing a new engine or an engine that the distributor was out. I pull the number 1 plug.

Put your finger in the hole and turn the engine by hand. You want to feel the engine trying to blow your finger out of the hole.

Turn the crank so the pointer is at the timing you want the car to be at.

Stab the distributor so the rotor is limited the correct way and turn the dist so the rotor is at the number one plug wire.

 

Doing this I have never failed to have an engine start up

 

Bob

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Just a thought, turn ign key on and see if you have power to coil. Your start up sounds just like mine when having my issues yesterday

Yep, could be- if your car has a tach that is fried or disconnected that will open the ignition circuit. The engine will run as long as the key is in "start" but not "on". You might try unplugging the tack and putting a jumper wire in the car side of the plug.

 

Another thought- It looked like you were using a remote starter switch- or was someone in the car? Did you have the key "on" when using the remote switch? If not it would have behaved just as shown.

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I took the day off today. Was using a screwdriver on the solenoid to crank the engine... I marked everything before I unbolted stuff... The burping was with everything marked as it was when i took it apart.. I put on a new timing chain about a year or so before parked.. I'm taking the week off as well.. let's see what happens next weekend.

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Two things I'd check,1 as mentioned by Barnett468 plug wire routing, and if you just did the top end distributor could be a tooth off (or 180 off). In your video you're getting spark as noted by the flame coming from the carb. I'd lean more towards 180 off.

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Poo! I know I've been told what to do. Ain't working. Distributor is not 180 out... tried that. no hit at all.. put back to markings.. had buddy over.. number 1 definitely on compression stroke when number 1 lined up on TDC.

 

 

About to toss in towel..

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Poo! I know I've been told what to do. Ain't working. Distributor is not 180 out... tried that. no hit at all.. put back to markings.. had buddy over.. number 1 definitely on compression stroke when number 1 lined up on TDC.

 

 

About to toss in towel..

 

 

ok, so you are saying that your timing is at 10 degrees before top dead center while you are cranking the engine over and you have disconnected the distributor vacuum hose.

 

since this is the case, you can cross these items off your list . your distributor is not 180 out.

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Thinking spark is ok. It's hot. I advanced it until it started backfiring through the carb and retarded it until it stopped. It was exactly on the marks I made 30 something years ago... Carb might be messed up.. noticed accelerator pump wasn't moving... pushed on it gently and you could feel something breaking free and then it started moving.. so this weekend I'll yank it and go through the carb again.. it was months ago and the cleaner did make some white aluminum rust on the outside.. might have gunk clogging something up internally.  I'm recharged and not giving up!

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It did not fire because it was one tooth off .

 

It is ALIVE!!! carb need rebuilding.. timing was off one  tooth... she's back!

 

It did not refuse to start because the "timing was one tooth off." . It did not start because you did not do what I suggested . 10 degrees btdc is 10 degrees btdc irregardless of the position of the rotor.

 

Your accelerator pump suddenly started working because the fresh gas helped dissolve some of the Jurassic goo like substance that had glued the squirter nozzle check ball in place to soften, and you applied enough pressure to it thru the accelerator pump to dislodge it.

 

Your power valve also probably dried up some.

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It did not fire because it was one tooth off .

 

 

It did not refuse to start because the "timing was one tooth off." . It did not start because you did not do what I suggested . 10 degrees btdc is 10 degrees btdc irregardless of the position of the rotor.

 

Your accelerator pump suddenly started working because the fresh gas helped dissolve some of the Jurassic goo like substance that had glued the squirter nozzle check ball in place to soften, and you applied enough pressure to it thru the accelerator pump to dislodge it.

 

Your power valve also probably dried up some.

Wow, are you ever clairvoyant. Irregardless is not a word.

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