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jjstang

Drip moldings removal.

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Been told to use a can opener to remove these.  I've poke at it a little but not sure exactly sure how to.  Which end of the opener to use, pry from the top or bottom, and what other tricks you know.  TIA

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I used the flat end of a can opener with masking tape wrapped around it.  I started at the front and pried gently at the bottom side, moving back and forth along the edge until the end finally popped loose.  Then I just worked my way back, removing the moulding.

 

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You need a good heavy bottle opener , a cheap flimsy one will just bend the little tab .Start at the very end ,not the middle and go a bout 1 1/2 inch at a time and do not try to lift it all at once . and wrap the opener in masking tape as stated to keep from scratching the stailess.

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First of all .just let me say ...PATTEN PENDING ...HAHA!

I had some 1 1/2 16 gauge made a few bends and found an old screw driver and cut the end off.

I welded the piece to the screw driver and tried it ,it needed a 45 * bend in the screw driver to clear the door and the quarter .This is a 64 1/2 ,a 69 will be easier .It works perfect but i think i will glue some vinyl inside to help keep dents away ..Took 25 minutes to make . My molding was all bent up ,but i didn't make any more dents .Who knows ,It may even open a beer !

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I thought it was being handled by RPM Industries ??

 

Well ,it turns out the 69-70 is a different molding from the 65-68 .I made a new one this morning .The 69 -70 is wider at the bottom  lip so i had to make the new one with a wider at the hook . 

It  pops the molding off easier than the 65-68 one does .Didn't leave a mark on the molding .

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I have three .I used an old nut driver set i had here and never use ...but you know i will need it now HAHA.

If you start at the ends and work towards the turn ,the trim  just falls off .I would still use some masking tape on the top just to keep from scratching the molding ,although i did polish the edges .They sort of look like a razor .

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