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Sean D

69 Mach 1 "M" code - rebuild the 351c or go back to 351w

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That's a very nice combo you have in your garage: I have exactly the same. Lol

Hey atleast your have two blues!  The Boss 302 is an awesome beast, but I like staring at and working on the 69 mush more!

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Very nice stable. Which race ramps do you have, are they the 56" 10 degree ramps? Do they stay in place on concrete when driving up on them? Thanks, Bob.

Yes they are the 56" ramps and do very well staying put. I bought them for the 2013 Boss 302, but use them on the 69 as they feel safer then the jack stands.

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I used to have an Indian Fire Red 69 coupe and I loved that color. I like it less on Mach Is because the black graphics really didn't contrast that well. Many of the IFR cars had white guts, which is an interesting combo. I guess if I were you I wouldn't be in any sort of rush, the car looks great now.

My Marti Reports states Y5 which is IFR and 63C Black interior.

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This is my india fire car we restored . i sold it before i had a chance to lower it around 1".

 

..........1969_00021_02.jpg

Nice looking, but not sure I will go back to this color, as knowing me I always end up blue. Most of my past restores went blue, but maybe black this time. Haven't done a black car yet. But back to windsor versus cleveland...still not sure what to do here.

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Neither a Windsor or a Cleveland will fill the engine compartment enough, so put an FE in it!

What we need is a spark plug changing contest.

The FE will win every time(Or lose)

Yes the FE will give you that FULL feeling..

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What we need is a spark plug changing contest.

The FE will win every time(Or lose)

Yes the FE will give you that FULL feeling..

 

So will a 429/460. Been there, done that. The Clevo's enough of a chore to work around with stock shock towers, IMO.

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Nice looking, but not sure I will go bad to this color, as knowing me I always end up blue. Most of my past restores went blue, but maybe black this time. Haven't done a black car yet. But back to windsor versus cleveland...still not sure what to do here.

 

Black is beautiful, but a PITA to keep clean. I'm to the point of not worrying about it too much, but often refer to the car as Old Dusty these days because of it.

 

Windsor vs Cleveland. I wouldn't get in too big of a hurry to decide. You have a running engine right now, so you can drive & enjoy the car in the meantime.

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What we need is a spark plug changing contest.

The FE will win every time(Or lose)

Yes the FE will give you that FULL feeling..

Take the valve covers off on an FE and those spark plugs are easier to get to.  I use a piece of vacuum hose to hold the spark plugs and lower them in and twist until the threads catch.  Especially helpful on plug #8 under the brake booster.

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I remember plug no 8 on my 500KR O so well...Having headers did not make it any easier...

Never tired pulling the covers off..30 years have passed...I know pulling the covers off my 351C makes it a lot faster.

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Take the valve covers off on an FE and those spark plugs are easier to get to.  I use a piece of vacuum hose to hold the spark plugs and lower them in and twist until the threads catch. 

 

I use an add to sell a car with an FE engine when it's time to change the plugs.

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Waking this thread back up, as I have been dealing with brake issues the past few months. Not enough vacuum (only 15 hg vacuum) in the all original cleveland to keep up with around town power assist braking. Ahhhhh!

But I think I have decided to go with a 351W stroker (427) with the dart block. The one at Smeding will give 460 hp and 510 torque, which is probably a bit over kill but I always wanted an 69 with semi resto-mod look, feel, and drivability. Plan to drop all the original power steering and suspension too, and install the Total Control Product system that will include rack and pinion, coil over front and upgrade leaf spring rear suspension, and front and rear upgraded anti-roll bars. May through in their rear torque arm if needed.

http://www.smedingperformance.com/ford/427+Windsor+460+Horsepower.html

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/fcss-fd.html

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rack.html

http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/LSS-M1X.html

Yes both the engine swap and steering/suspension swap will cost an upwards of $10000 each, so now my question for all you guys/gals, if I had to pick one to do first, do I jump into the engine swap first or concentrate on the steering and suspension first? Remember I have a completely drive able vehicle right now so I can go both ways.

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Overkill? Nope, just about right.

 

I'd probably start with the suspension. No reason other than I think that upgrade really makes a difference in these cars.

 

You didn't mention how you arrived at the TCP selection. I certainly hope you've given Street or Track a look. Many folks highly recommend them, and you won't find a better guy than Shaun.

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Total waste of money using those heads on that block and a cam that has the same lift one would use on a mild 302 build.

 

They also don't mention anything about 0 decking the block or the piston material or brand or the timing chain or brand or the damper or the lifter or rocker arm or distributor or ring brand brand etc.

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Total waste of money using those heads on that block and a cam that has the same lift one would use on a mild 302 build.

 

They also don't mention anything about 0 decking the block or the piston material or brand or the timing chain or brand or the damper or the lifter or rocker arm or distributor or ring brand brand etc.

good points here.  I don't trust crate engines,  take a good block to a local high-quality/reputable builder who can answer for their work if anything is not right without crazy expectations of shipping engines back and  forth.  One who does it right the  first time.  And $10K sounds high to me for what I know I can get one done for by a highly reputable builder close by.

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Your link to TCP is for a stock suspension replacement system... not a coilover.  If I was going to buy all new components, I would definitely get a coilover suspension.  Much better ride and the ability to lower the car as much as you want.  I would recommend Shaun at SoT as well; that's what I used on my 69.  

 

david

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The TCP suspension and steering were more of examples and I will consider SoT as well. I have one opinion to jump into the suspension first, and one that doesn't like crate engines.  Anyone else have an opinion on starting with suspension steering upgrades first or engine and drive train?

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Barnett is a builder and has done 50+ Mustangs. I would pay attention to his posts. The conservative approach is to make sure it stops (brakes), then all the wiggly parts (suspension and turning), then make it go fast (power)... ahh as much as you can separate some of those things. 

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