Ignition Problems

[69R-CODE 25]

Hello all.

 

I have a new electric problem I was needing some help with.

 

I have upgraded my points distributor to the igniter I magnetic pickup and flamethrower coil. 

 

I have been running that set up for about 6 months now without any problems. The other day the car was running fine and just died (like someone reached in and turned the key off).

 

I tried to start the car and it fired up and immediately died. I repeated this about 10 times. 

 

I tested the voltage at the coil in the run(on) position and got nothing. It is getting 12 volts in the start position.

 

The car will start and run fine if I connect a jumper wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive side of the coil.

 

Also wanted to mention that when I hot wired the coil, I noticed that the tach is not working.

 

Not sure what my problem is.

 

Could it be...

1. Blown Fuses (I do not see any obvious problems but I am thinking of replacing them all to see)

2. Resistor Wire (Pink Wire) has gone bad. (Dont know how to check that)

3. Tach is fried ( It is the orignal tach and could be toast)

4. Ignition Switch has gone bad (It is the original switch and could be toast)

5. Solenoid is bad ( It is brand new )

 

Before I start replacing a bunch parts has anyone had this issue??

[69RavenConv 286]

Sounds like the tach. Wiring it in series with the coil was not one of Ford's Better Ideas

 

http://1970mgr.org/_TachBypass.htm

[69R-CODE 25]

What is the best way to test it or bypass it to rule it out? 

[69RavenConv 286]

What is the best way to test it or bypass it to rule it out? 

 

What you already did is a pretty good way:

 

The car will start and run fine if I connect a jumper wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the positive side of the coil.

 

It's probably the tach circuit, it might not be the tach itself. It could be a connector, wire or crimp. It could also be the feed from the ignition switch. The link below is a pretty good explanation. Click the link and scroll down to the tach section. It shows how the coil power runs from the switch, through the tach and to the coil.

 

Check if there is power from the switch. If there is, try to find where it's disappearing

 

http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=12082.0

[69R-CODE 25]

I just checked. I am only getting 0.50 volts to the tach with the key in the run position.

[Midlife 814]

Sounds like a broken wire or bad connector somewhere between the ignition switch and the tach line.  The highest probability is that the ignition switch is bad, followed by a bad pin at the ignition switch plug itself.  The pink resistor wire could be fried as well.  That wire should have 1.3 to 1.7 ohms along its entire length.  Running a pink resistor wire with aftermarket coils can create issues as the resistance of the coil needs to be kept within a certain range.

[69R-CODE 25]

I am going to buy a new ignition switch today and see what happens. If the resistor wire is also fried, should I bypass it and tap into a switched 12V source and run a new wire straight to the Pertonix?

[Dave R. 85]

Isn't the pink resistor wire supposed to be bypassed, per the Pertronix instructions, when using the Pertronix setup?   Dave R.

[69R-CODE 25]

I installed the pertronix per the instruction included. Also this is how CJ Pony parts shows how to do it (not that it means much). https://youtu.be/RWgw4jGF5MQ?t=2m27s

 

Like I said, It has ran without problems for 6 months. 

 

I did consider that at the time of install but had read that the igniter 1 could run with pink wire.

[69R-CODE 25]

Went home on my lunch break and installed the new ignition switch. Car started and stalled immediately. 

For the heck of it, I disconnected the tach and made a jumper pigtail. Car started up fine and ran like usual.

 

Looks like a rebuilt tach is in my future. 

 

 

I now have a couple of options. 

Should I have the tach just rebuilt or upgraded to run with MSD ignigtion?

(Suggestions on who should rebuild)?

Or

Should I take the opportunity to update all my gauges while I have them out?

Dakota Digital / Autometer/ Ect...

 

Although, I will have a hard time justifying spending $1200 when $200 will fix my problem.

 

What do y'all think?

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Just keep in mind that if you are going to change to a multiple spark discharge system then the coil is operated multiple times per power stroke so you can't tie the tach to the coil anymore. You will need a clean tach signal coming from a magnetic or hall effect pickup in a new distributor. Some ignition boxes have a tach output. Pertronix has an MSD system but I don't see a tach output in their literature. Just something to consider.

[Dave R. 85]

Isn't the pink resistor wire supposed to be bypassed, per the Pertronix instructions, when using the Pertronix setup?   Dave R.

 

69R-code, I have the Ignitor II in my distributor and the instructions recommend not using any resistor or resistor wire. I don't know what your Ignitor I calls for. My apology. I got my I's and II's mixed up.    Dave R.

[69R-CODE 25]

For now (until I can save up a few $'s) I am going to just bypass the tach. I bought a replacement pertronix Ignitor and put my stock coil back on and I am getting 9 volts to it while the car is running. So that I don't Have problems again, where is a good place to connect the pertronix to a switched 12 volts? I get nervous cutting and splicing wires under the dash.

[Midlife 814]

There's a green/red wire at the voltage regulator that is only hot when the key is in RUN, but it may not work when the key is in CRANK.