RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 What are you guys with aftermarket radiators with a wider (actually thicker I suppose} top tanks using for the mounting bracket? I've already made two lower brackets from strap steel and 1/4" rubber cushions. Since the upper bracket is visible, I'd rather not resort to my Rube Goldberg ancestry. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 you can cut the stock bracket and extend it so it is wide enough then get it aluminized or chrome plated so it matches the finish of the rad. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 Ya, I seriously thought of doing that. But with the shape of the edges being rolled, and even if I spliced in a section of an original bracket, I didn't think I could make it to my liking. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 I have a sheet metal brake. We can make you a killer one out of aluminum. If you want the original look, welding one up to look right should not be a problem Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 I also made mine from aluminum . My tank is 3" thick and I found that 64-67 GTO bottom insulators will work on the bottom and top. Of course you have to modify the bottom brackets tho. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 Ya, I suppose this is another project I'm over thinking. I even caught some grief from my 30 year old engineer nephew. If I don't make or buy a brake in the next few days to replace my stolen brake I'll hit you up Bob. Thanks guys, good info as usual. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 An aluminum one made on a brake may end up with small stress fractures in it at the bends . Just have to try it and see . Since you seem to be so picky, you could just have one cnc'd, lol. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 Picky, me? My nephew says his go to guy recommends 5052-H3x and provided a minimum bend radius chart. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 Picky, me? My nephew says his go to guy recommends 5052-H3x and provided a minimum bend radius chart. I don't even know what the heck that is, lol. I guess you could also use prefabulated amulite. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 Me neither. You funny guy! Top 3 Aluminum Alloys For Bending 1. 3003. This would be the best solution for most application. This alloy exhibits medium strength, the best cold workability together with high elongation such as 25% and one of the biggest differences between yield and tensile strength of 14 Ksi (Kilo-pound of force per square inch) at 0 temper – annealed, followed by the H14 temper which is partially annealed and strain hardened. 2. 5052. 5052 is a close second. At the annealed temper, it has an elongation of 20% and the difference between yield and tensile strength of 21.5 Ksi. It is the highest strength alloy of the more common non-heat treatable grades. It has excellent corrosion behavior and in the annealed condition has better formability than 3003 or even 1100 alloys, with 21.5 Ksi of difference between yield and tensile strength and up to 20% of elongation. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 How bout using an aluminum beer can . Don't need a brake to bend that. If the rad has a flange on the sides, you could bolt it to the sides of the core support and use rubber grommets . if it has no flange, you could still trap it with a simple bracket on the side with a rubber insulator if you can keep it from lifting up but that really isnt a prob cuz it wont lift up under normal conditions. this way, you will not have any bracket on top, which imo is cool looking and i have done this before. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
7TCatvert 24 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 All I did was use longer bolts the bracket fit on the top of it.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted May 8, 2016 If the bends show signs of stress after bending tig it. Its only a radiator bracket, its not like we are strapping an engine on a triple 7. Dave Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 If the bends show signs of stress after bending tig it. Its only a radiator bracket, its not like we are strapping an engine on a triple 7. Dave ok, what is a tripple 7? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 All I did was use longer bolts the bracket fit on the top of it.... Unfortunately the top of his rad is wider than the bracket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 ok, what is a tripple 7? It's a big airplane made by Boeing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 Boeing 777 If the rad has a flange on the sides, you could bolt it to the sides of the core support and use rubber grommets . this way, you will not have any bracket on top, which imo is cool looking and i have done this before. You been spying on me??? About a year ago I made up a couple of adapter brackets using the side flanges of the radiator to bolt to the existing hole of the radiator support opening. I thought the side flanges wouldn't be strong enough over time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 It's a big airplane made by Boeing. LMAO! I like your answer better than mine Midlife! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 9, 2016 How does Boeing mount their rads? . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted May 10, 2016 Ya, I suppose this is another project I'm over thinking. I even caught some grief from my 30 year old engineer nephew. If I don't make or buy a brake in the next few days to replace my stolen brake I'll hit you up Bob. Thanks guys, good info as usual. I have a box&pan brake I am going to sell as well if you need one Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin427 18 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 I have the Champion 4 row rad in my car. I took 2 upper rad mounts and cut them where it goes over the rad and welded them together, filed, and sanded them smooth so it looks like original then had it powder coated black. I ordered 2 sets of upper rad rubbers from CJ's and cut them to fit the bracket. looks like original but wider. I will post a pic later. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted May 15, 2016 Cool, thanks Kevin. I just picked up a second oem bracket and may do the same. This one isn't doing much for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin427 18 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Here are a few pics of mine. I could have spent a little more time smoothing them out. There aren't perfect but my car is a driver that gets shown once in a while not a show car. It's a little dusty in the pics but shines nicely when wiped down. Also i used this fan controller for the dual fans. it is a nice piece and easy to install. http://derale.com/products/electric-fans/fan-controllers/high-amp-controllers/7-25-standard-thermal-fan-clutch2013-10-18-11-52-51874872-detail Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted May 16, 2016 Cool, thanks Kevin. I just picked up a second oem bracket and may do the same. This one isn't doing much for me. You don't like that aluminum bracket? I think it looks quite decent and much better than a modified stocker. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted May 17, 2016 Overthinking it! Buy a repro bracket. Now you have two. Cut pieces from one of them to splice on to the second one that you are making wider. The shape should be correct. If the repro doesn't exactly match, buy two of them. End result is an original looking part. When I was in undergraduate school for mechanical engineering instructors always drilled into us, K.I.S.S. Keep It Simple Stupid. I'm not calling anybody names. Just saying, it's best to keep it as simple as possible. It's only a bracket. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites