Bad day. Who wants to play name that part?

[michael2938 24]

I'll give you hint... I picked them up off the ground under the car.  :(

 

I've had a bit of a bad day.

 

 

[fvike 173]

Are those parts of the cylinder wall and oil pan flange? Sure looks like an oil pan screw and gasket. Don't know what the round part is.

[michael2938 24]

yep, you got it.  The round part was just a cap from a pulley that somehow came off--its the least of my problems.  The piston sticking out of my oil pan on the other hand....

 

anybody in the midwest have a spare '69 351 block?

 

-Mike

[fvike 173]

Well, that sucks! What cylinder blew? Was it a built motor? I've read that once you go north of 500 hp on a original block, you're on the clock - the block will fail eventually.

[zach69grande 25]

ouch.... well... you could always strip it down and make a V8 coffee table out of it..i've always wanted to.... https://www.google.com/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=595&q=v8+coffee+table&oq=v8+coffee+table&gs_l=img.3..0j0i30j0i5i30j0i8i30l4.1768.7785.0.7912.19.17.2.0.0.0.121.1273.15j1.16.0....0...1ac.1.64.img..1.17.1195.b_zjyv_F8CI#imgrc=_
 

i

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I Had a 302 do the same thing ,it was running like it never ran before ...Then it never ran again HAHA!
Good old number 2 rod sticking out of the side of the block ,never again used cast pistons in my motors .
There were pieces of piston all through the motor ,even in the un damaged cylinders .Couldn't figure out how the pieces got in the good cylinders ,looked like a shattered window made of cast aluminum.

[michael2938 24]

Yeah, I don't really understand what happened.  It seemed to have been running fine when I drove it to a car show today.  Then when I went to leave, it decided to crap out on me trying to start it up.  It was cylinder #8 that blew.

 

I'm not sure my wife would like the coffee table idea, but I might be able to do something crafty with the other 7 pistons.  :)

 

I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to fix this.  I had a '69 block in the car, with the 3 bolt harmonic balancer/crank pulley.  The later 351w models had 4 bolts.  I have a 74 351w that I could probably swap in there, but not sure if I am going to have problems with all my pulleys and things lining up properly.

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

You should be able to swap the balancer and pulleys ,every thing else is the same .

[MichaelJames 12]

You should be able to swap the balancer and pulleys ,every thing else is the same .

You mean I could put my 69 harmonic balancer on the 74 351w block? Wouldn't the engine be somehow unbalanced?

[Ridge Runner 1,113]

I am pretty sure all the 351 s have the same weight balance it is just the early 351 used a 3 bolt balancer .  Unless you had the old motor balanced .

[Rsanter 152]

Yup, both engines have the same out of ballance. 28.8 oz

 

I belive the deck height is different from 69-70 to the 74 block you have

 

Bob

[1969_Mach1 333]

That really happened at cranking RPM?

[fvike 173]

 

anybody in the midwest have a spare '69 351 block?

 

-Mike

 

Well, it's not a '69, but on ebay, located in New Albany, Indiana, there's an complete '97 roller tappet engine, possibly (it doesn't say, but is pictured) with the transmission for a whopping $695. Would be a great starting point for a new engine build. I recon you can't reuse any of the internal parts from the old engine? It could easily be dressed up to look like an '69 engine.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-1997-351-WINDSOR-ROLLER-TAPPET-ENGINE-GOOD-RUNNER-COMPLETE-/131786718671?hash=item1eaf19bdcf:g:7D0AAOSwzgRWzkBn&vxp=mtr

[skidmarky 50]

I'm using an '88 351w block in my car. Not much difference, although a '69 block is the strongest. Only thing I had to do was add an adapter for the clutch z bar to attach, there is no provision on the newer block for this.

[michael2938 24]

That really happened at cranking RPM?

I can't explain it, I just don't understand what happened.  When starting it, the car fired up for a split second but would not stay running.  On the third try, it fired up hard and immediately wasn't running right.  Sounded like the RPMs continued increasing for a second or two (foot was not on the pedal).  I turned the key off as quick as I could.

 

Thanks for the link on Ebay,  I think I'm going to see if I can use the '74 block I already have as a replacement.  Its good to hear the weight balance would be the same and I could reuse my existing balancer and crank pulley.  What about the alternator, power steering and AC brackets?  I know the alternator has a different spacer only for '69.  And I also know all the AC brackets for a 70 351w are all different, but I can't remember why.

[michael2938 24]

I'm using an '88 351w block in my car. Not much difference, although a '69 block is the strongest. Only thing I had to do was add an adapter for the clutch z bar to attach, there is no provision on the newer block for this.

Are you using any of the original Alternator, AC, Power Steering brackets and pulleys from a 69?

[Max Power 74]

Just save all your old brackets and adapters, they should work on the 74 block.

 

The reason the 69 models had adapters is because the 69 351s used 302 brackets and pulleys, and the areas where deck height difference between the 302 and 351 needed them got adapters. In 1970, Ford made new brackets and pulleys specifically for the 351 and its taller deck height.

[michael2938 24]

Here's the '74 351w.  Not much to look at, and have no idea how the inside looks yet.

 

[MikeStang 247]

Just get ya a Later model 351 Roller Block and call it a day.

[Rsanter 152]

The 74 block will work just fine. When you rebuild it you have to be sure you rebuild it with it being a 74 in mind so you can get all the right parts to give the compression ratio you want based on the taller deck height.

The deck height difference is not much suck that it will make things not work on the outside but it is enough to kill your compression ratio if you gat the wrong combination.

 

If it was me I would use the block, junk the rest of the internals, and go with a mild stroker kit. 373 to 383 cubes.

You will have a larger and flatter torque curve and more usable drive around power for not much more money.

 

If your heads are still good you can do a mild port job on them or just go to aluminum heads.

If you want the more stock look you can paint the whole engine heads and all

 

The newer model 351 blocks are weaker and have issues with cracking. Use the 74 block and convert to roller if that's what you want. The only benifit of the late model blocks is that they are already set up for roller. Everything else about them is not as good

 

Bob

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

your car looked good yesterday.  sorry this had to happen at the end of your day.  did it happen right after i took off?

[MichaelJames 12]

your car looked good yesterday.  sorry this had to happen at the end of your day.  did it happen right after i took off?

 

Thanks.  Yeah, it was actually a few minutes after you left.  It was actually a great show otherwise.  Lots of good cars all around to look at.

[MichaelJames 12]

The 74 block will work just fine. When you rebuild it you have to be sure you rebuild it with it being a 74 in mind so you can get all the right parts to give the compression ratio you want based on the taller deck height.

The deck height difference is not much suck that it will make things not work on the outside but it is enough to kill your compression ratio if you gat the wrong combination.

 

If it was me I would use the block, junk the rest of the internals, and go with a mild stroker kit. 373 to 383 cubes.

You will have a larger and flatter torque curve and more usable drive around power for not much more money.

 

If your heads are still good you can do a mild port job on them or just go to aluminum heads.

If you want the more stock look you can paint the whole engine heads and all

 

The newer model 351 blocks are weaker and have issues with cracking. Use the 74 block and convert to roller if that's what you want. The only benifit of the late model blocks is that they are already set up for roller. Everything else about them is not as good

 

Bob

 

Thanks for the advice.  Most likely because of timing and lack of money to throw at this, it will be what I think is called a poor man's rebuild.  If the internals of the replacement block look good, it will likely just get cylinders honed, new bearings, and rings.  I'm hoping my heads are still good.  If so, I should be back on the road at the cost of an engine rebuild kit ($175?)

 

Of course if the block doesn't look good and needs to go to a machine shop anyway, then I might consider spending the extra for a stroker kit.  But I'm just looking for a car to cruise around in locally, not race.

 

-Mike

[stangs-R-me 120]

Wow, sorry to hear about your engine ... hope the '74 long block is good enough shape for a light rebuild.

 

That round part in you pic looks like it could be the broken-off head of a valve !!

 

Doug  

[Max Power 74]

Looking at the gunk on that engine, my guess is that it will probably be worn beyond a slap and dash. In the days of chinese cranks, it is actually cheaper to get a budget stroker kit than it is to recondition the parts you have. Examples like this are everywhere:

 

http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1140&gclid=CjwKEAjwxoG5BRCC7ezlzNmR8HUSJAAre36j7Sh9M_RgKXYLhRJp7Zv9cqDkkBqmks4kNVD4ps3LyBoCkDHw_wcB

 

This level of displacement may expose your stock heads, but you could probably get iron WP heads cheaper than reconditioning yours as well.

 

I guess I am not a fan of the shortcut method, I would rather save my shekels and do it close to right rather than have to do it again in a couple of years.