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craigm

Functional side scoops

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I've always toyed with the idea, I don't think they would be much cop for brake cooling, you'll just end up cooling your tyre but it would look good to see them open. One day I'll have a go prob when it's time for a respray.

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Has anyone converted the fake side scoops into functional brake cooling scoops?

Very simple .You need the brake duct kit from Branda for the 69 Shelby .It is the fiberglass box that attaches to the inside of the quarter that covers the original scoop opening and the rubber hose that goes from the box to the wheel tub. .A hole has to be cut in the wheel tub for the hose to go into . Take the backing plate out of the original scoop and you will have functional rear brake scoops .

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I've seen it done a couple,of,times for the fastbacks. Seems like,it would not be that hard.

 

For the coupe you would have to get the Shelby scoop or make one. After that there is not that much room between the window track and the qtr so,it would require you making a box in there that would lead to a hose

 

Bob

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You have to keep in mind that the Shelby scoops stick out into the jet stream much further than the fairly flush regular fastback versions, and that sending air into the wheel well, especially if you have drum brakes, will have a fairly minimal effect.

 

Could be cool from a cosmetic standpoint, of course.

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Hmm...don't think I've ever heard of a drum brake recommendation over disc brake for brake fade.

oops, I forgot to say "If you are running drum brakes in the rear...".

 

That being said, drum brakes actually work extremely well providing they are set up properly . Their biggest performance drawback is that they suck if they get wet.

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oops, I forgot to say "If you are running drum brakes in the rear...".

 

That being said, drum brakes actually work extremely well providing they are set up properly . Their biggest performance drawback is that they suck if they get wet.

I know, I think most are not aware of the dual-servo action of the drum brake shoes.  As the front shoe contacts the drum, the shoes rotate slightly and further force (or wedge) the rear shoe into the drum.  So both hydraulic pressure and this dual-servo action forces the shoes against the drum.  Under normal driving they need less pedal effort than disk brakes.

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I know, I think most are not aware of the dual-servo action of the drum brake shoes.  As the front shoe contacts the drum, the shoes rotate slightly and further force (or wedge) the rear shoe into the drum.  So both hydraulic pressure and this dual-servo action forces the shoes against the drum.  Under normal driving they need less pedal effort than disk brakes.

Well, fortunately, we have things to assist in pedal effort. And while servo action is ducky, the design is horrid for dissipating heat. It's why the underpowered Jags beat the overpowered Cunninghams in sports car racing 60 years ago, and it still applies today.

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Yes I know drum brakes have poor cooling capability and the associated heat issues compared to disk brakes.  That's why I used the phrase "Under normal driving ...".  I've had a couple of cars with manual 4 wheel drum brakes, a 67 Ford Fairlane, and a 1956 Ford F150 pick up.  And I've had a Challenger and now my 69 Mach 1 with power disk brakes and motors that make only 10-12 inches of vacuum at idle.  And comparing pedal effort of these cars, again for normal driving, the manual drum brake cars were as easy to stop.  If one doesn't know, it's often hard to determine if a manual drum brake car has power assist or not.

 

I'm not advocating drum brakes.  And if you drive the car hard on a track or through, say, California's commute traffic, they might not be the best choice.  But being old enough to have owned and driven cars with 4 wheel drum brakes, I just think for normal driving they are often perceived to be much worse than they actually are mainly because of the older technology. 

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