Lifting from the pinchweld

[Mach1 Driver 560]

Since my Mach is so nose heavy and my lift has short arms**, I am going to use the pinchweld in the rear to support the car. I've read that some people use the bottom edge of the weld to support and others use the flat areas on either side.

Since the edge of the weld is uneven and often has just one metal thickness sticking below the other, I can't see why anyone would try to use that surface.
 

What have you done?

** Its the tyrannosaurus of two post lifts

 

 

 

[machm1970 180]

I wouldn't trust the pinch weld when there's a flat surface right there, but that's just me.

 

Matt

[RPM 1,190]

I unfortunately don't have a lift, but I'm thinking the torque box just in front of the front leaf spring mount??? On my daily driver BMW 525, I made an adapter to use with a floor jack. It fits where the factory jack goes on the rocker. I don't know if the Mustang has such places on the rockers, but the rockers and torque boxes are usually the strongest areas of the car.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I unfortunately don't have a lift, but I'm thinking the torque box just in front of the front leaf spring mount???

 

that's where I'd like to pick it up from but unfortunately thats about 4" too far back (tiny little arms) like Roy below 

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

The problem is the rocker is thin and it can push up when you lift from the pinch weld .there is nothing more than the inner rocker face plate attached to the outer rocker .The flat area is even worse because it is only the one layer thick ,and that is about 18 gauge .

[Tonyj 10]

Pinch weld is fine to use. Rear end isn't heavy enough to warp or crush the rockers. Just lay some cloth on the lift pads to protect the paint on the pinch weld edge. I was given the same advice from a guy who has been in the industry for decades and worked on dozens of Mustangs. 

[larryc94 38]

 

Since my Mach is so nose heavy and my lift has short arms**, I am going to use the pinchweld in the rear to support the car. I've read that some people use the bottom edge of the weld to support and others use the flat areas on either side.

Since the edge of the weld is uneven and often has just one metal thickness sticking below the other, I can't see why anyone would try to use that surface.

 

What have you done?

 

** Its the tyrannosaurus of two post lifts

 

 

 

I think you have a asymmetrical lift and the car is not centered front to back. It's made to set back so the doors have more room to open.  That's why the front arms are short and the rear long

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

I have seen a lot of pinch welds folded over from using jacks under them .It may be alright if your lift has rubber pads .If you do have a pinch weld bent you can take a cresent wrench to it and work it a little at a time and straighten it out 

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I think you have a asymmetrical lift and the car is not centered front to back. It's made to set back so the doors have more room to open.  That's why the front arms are short and the rear long

 No its symmetrical- equal arm lengths. Its a MaxJax. They redesigned it just before I bought it, and the "new improved" version has shorter arms. They probably changed vendors in China or something. I got it because I have low ceilings and I want to be able to move it out of the way if necessary. Its a compromise but it will work out OK.

[Rsanter 152]

Don't remember where I saw it but I have seem plastic/nylon blocks with a slot in them for use on a lift when lifting at the pinch weld

You could likly make something like that very easily.

I think I saw someone make their own using hockey pucks

 

To me lifting at the pinch weld is fine as the factory jacks were designed to lifts at the pinch weld. You see there is a little notch in the bottom of the pinch weld where the factory jack is supposed to go. That is where I would try to position the lift arms

 

Bob

[Ridge Runner 1,112]

yes that area has an internal plate inside for extra support ,it is a notch at the rear of the rocker .It is designed  for the factory jack not to slip . the rocker its self is still just the outer layer and you will usually see where someone has placed a bottle jack there and a nice big round dent is easy to see . I believe the rear torque box is also a part of the factory jack location .

[Mach1 Driver 560]

RPM- is the quote at the bottom of your posts from Ted Cruz? Not to bash my old state, but whoever said it there's a lot of truth in it:

"Well... a lot has changed and Texas is the new California... "

[RPM 1,190]

Ted Cruz? Naw. I saw in it a thread on The Hamb at Jalopy Journal.com by a guy who goes by Tuck. I just liked the sound of it, and think it can have a few different meanings. The poster wasn't making any profound statement, just used it to explain how his plans had changed.

[Mach1 Driver 560]

I got these: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=331762982170

which are 2-15/16" in diameter with a grove not quite as deep as the pinch weld. They are made of a hard rubber and may "give" under load to also contact the areas on either side of it. 

However, I discovered that it hits the fuel line at the drivers side rear lift point. There is a bracket very close to the jacking point for the fuel line- I wonder if I loosen the bracket if I will get enough clearance, or do I need to hack up the pad? Anyone run into this problem on a 69?

[Rsanter 152]

Hack the pad a little

 

Bob

[JD08 42]

A hockey puck costs $1.50 and if you put a little groove in the middle similar to the ones in Mach 1 Driver's link they work just fine.

 

If you have a problem with the fuel line or something similar, just don't cut the groove as deep.