Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 Looking for advice from manual brake owners or former manual brake owners. I am restomoding 69 302 Cc4 to 331 Lentech AOD and Edelbrock top end kit #2091 with low vacume at idle Mustang had manual drums but was converted to power drums over 20 yrs ago......it has a Teal Green colored Booster ? I ordered Baer discs 13" fronts, 12" rear with parking brake and Baer's custom remaster cylinder. Considering going to manual disc 1- low vacuum issue (yes I know it can be solved) and 2 - cleaner look in engine bay Baer tech guys tell me that their manual set up works very well with their 15/16 cylinder and shouldn't need booster but will work either way. looking for opinions ? Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 You will need a manual brake pedal assy, and the support shaft as well. I'm right in the middle of this conversion myself for the same reason. Not my thumbs. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 what info are you looking for exactly? manual and power brakes do not use the same size master. if they say it will work fine i would think that it would . if it is still requires too much force on the pedal to stop you can try a 7/8" or more aggressive pads . you can also try a hydro boost master. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 What I'm asking input on since I haven't driven a manual powered brake car in well over 25 yrs is ? 1 - has anyone regretted the conversion to manual, if so why ? 2 - is the car really any harder to stop when set up properly ? 3 - do they like it better manual ? why ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 Rsmach1 - your info on what specific parts, where you got them and experience would be helpful. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Alan_Mac 48 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 What I'm asking input on since I haven't driven a manual powered brake car in well over 25 yrs is ? 1 - has anyone regretted the conversion to manual, if so why ? 2 - is the car really any harder to stop when set up properly ? 3 - do they like it better manual ? why ? My Mach 1 came with manual drum brakes. I have a SSBC 15/16 master cylinder. I installed Manual Baer Front Pro+ 6P 13" and Rear SS4 with 13" two piece rotors. Baer makes excellent products. I am still breaking mine in but can say that there is no need for a power booster. They worked awesome, stopping distance was very good. I just increased my rear pressure from ~ 600 psi to 1000 psi and have 1300 psi in the front. it should stop on a dime now. Alan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 How low is your vacuum? Mine is currently at 10-12 in with out issue.. Been as low as 8 in with a different cam.... Breaks worked but not that well.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 manual brakes can be setup to work with only moderate pedal force but the trick is getting the right parts to do that with and i have never seen this achieved with a master bigger than 15/16 and some times it required a 7/8 so it can be a bit of experimentation to get it exactly how you like it. one trick is to use 2 lb residual valves. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 Rsmach1 - your info on what specific parts, where you got them and experience would be helpful.The manual brake pedal is available from West Coast Classic Cougar, http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/ although they don't list the pivot shaft and retaining clip, if you call them they can find it for you (they did for me). The other option is eBay, http://m.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Ford-Mustang-Brake-Pedal-Non-Power-Automatic-Boss-Shelby-Mach-Grande-/401080410358?nav=SEARCH and the pivot shaft with clip, http://m.ebay.com/itm/1970-Ford-Mustang-Automatic-Transmission-Brake-Pedal-Pin-Clip-/111934088327?nav=SEARCHScott Drake sells an adjustable pushrod, you will need to find out if the M/C from Baer retains the pushrod like stock, if not you will have to fab a pedal stop to keep the pushrod from coming out of the back of the M/C. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted March 27, 2016 Thanks for the input everyone. Ray1970....I won't know the vacuum until Dino work next week but top end kit before my mods to 331 said it would be around 10 in. I want to get the brakes plan worked out and do the cylinder and line installs before I drop the motor in.....more room to work :) I'm doing the Baer 13" Track 4 up front and 12" SS4 in rear with parking brake.......I wanted the 2 piece hats/router but the cost got NUTS. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Total Control Products 24 Report post Posted March 28, 2016 We sell Wilwood and their Mustang M/C is a 0.875" so the 15/16" from Baer makes sense. The pedal ratio needs to be roughly 6:1. It will work great. Lots of feedback. Quality modern brakes are more efficient; they don't need all the pressure that a stock booster style system will put out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 Question: Do I need a adapter plate for the new master cylinder to the firewall because of covertion from Power booster to manual disc ? I believe originally the car was manual drums and converter to power drums about 20 yrs ago. Trying to line all parts before staring work on brakes. I have already found new manual pedal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 The hole in the firewall gets enlarged when running a booster (the upper part of the opening), so yes you will need to fill in that gap. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 Look here http://www.mustangsteve.com/fyi_brakepedals/msFAQbrakepedals.html and scroll down and you can see what's done to the hole to add a booster. 1 Silver-Fox reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Silver-Fox 3 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 Yea....I saw that pic before and just got under dash to see the the hole. Wondering if any aftermarket adapters made to cover hole nicely. Looks like there is a threaded bolt hole on pedal mounting braket for a stop to be added.....perhaps manual brakes had one before because manual pedal itself does not have a stop welded on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 No adapters that I'm aware of (aftermarket is geared towards adding, not removing boosters lol), I was either going to fab and weld a piece to fill the void, or just make a backing plate to cover the area. Haven't really looked at a pedal stop yet as I'm still in the tear down phase of the whole car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted April 2, 2016 I was going to switch to manual brakes when I started my project, but when I discovered this dilemma I backed out. Shoulda coulda woulda if I had any working brain cells. Pretty simple fix to do if you have any fab skills. I'd probably add a reinforcement plate if I didn't do it like latoracing did his. I'm on board with the thinking of modern manual brakes working fine in our cars. Plus the booster gets in the way and mores the m/c forward taking up more space. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted April 3, 2016 I'll have to agree RPM, the plate would probably best best. I'll have to look at the car you're talking about. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
